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8th December 2019, 01:08 AM
#11
Patrol God
Just be aware that some unscrupulous manufacturers will claim the leads are rated a lot higher than they actually are. Had one set given to me, that had a thin copper core surrounded by a very thick plastic insulation. They could barely start a mower, let alone a car. You need to check the amount of copper crimped at the clips.
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Yeti's Beast (8th December 2019)
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8th December 2019 01:08 AM
# ADS
Circuit advertisement
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9th December 2019, 09:54 AM
#12
Thanks everyone for the help, it's all greatly appreciated.
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9th December 2019, 10:09 AM
#13
Travelling Podologist
I have crank battery connected to the aux batteries in the canopy via 70mm2 positive cable & a switch, & negative chassis. If I get a flat battery, just turn the switch & hit the ignition key.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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