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Thread: Radiator and coolant levels

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    Radiator and coolant levels

    I've got a GU with a TB45e, I just gently pushed on the back of the top radiator tank and accidentally snapped off a small plastic stud and created a pin-sized lead. I have temporarily stopped the lead with a small screw with a washer and some silicone.

    I need to buy a new radiator, any tips? Should I go for copper or aluminum alloy core?

    Are the factory radiators 2 core or 3 core?

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  3. #2
    The master farter
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    I've had both copper and alloy aftermarket radiators in mine and I saw zero difference in cooling performance. But I drive a TD so not much keeps them cool. I now run a a genuine radiator and would just stick with that.

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    Hodge (17th September 2022), PeeBee (16th September 2022)

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    OEM Nissan radiators for the win always in my personal experiences.
    FWIW: I now carry super glue baby tubes and a small cannister of bi-carb soda ( USA baking powder)
    Check Youtubey for what the two over each other drip/sprinkle….repeat, can achieve on plastic patches trackside


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    In my mind copper wins.
    check also your waterpump and thermostat while you have it apart. Make sure your shrouds (upper and lower) are intact.
    - 1990 LWB Safari flatdeck, TD42 -
    - 1988 LWB 7-seat Safari, TD42 -
    1989 LWB 5-Seat, TD42

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    MB (21st September 2022)

  10. #6
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    crack a raw egg and a teaspoon of fine black pepper into the rad for a quick n dirty fix. works from the inside out...
    one advantage of copper is it can be soldered/repaired trackside if you hole it in the wops.
    - 1990 LWB Safari flatdeck, TD42 -
    - 1988 LWB 7-seat Safari, TD42 -
    1989 LWB 5-Seat, TD42

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    MB (21st September 2022)

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