Starting blowing smoke

[10G]

The Y61 3L CRD has started blowing smoke, dirty black smoke on startup, sometimes looks white though.

157,000 kms.

Maybe using a bit more fuel, sometimes needs more cranking to start from cold.

Doesn't seem to be down on power but am noticing a more louder deeper drone coming from the front of the vehicle when driving.

I was thinking, clean the MAF, replace air filter and maybe fuel filter.

Any other suggestion are most welcome.

Thanks.

[Fireblade]

i louder deep drone could be a exhaust leak under the engine bay, if the hole is small usually its more of a squeal but if its a big one then it would be more droning
i did see one once it had a broken egr pipe and it sounded like a tractor

[the evil twin]

Not 100% of the time but usually...
Black smoke - soot and crap from overfuelling or low boost and/or bad glow plugs if only on start
White smoke - unburnt fuel from low compression and/or bad glow plugs if only on start

I would clean the MAF, disco the battery to force an ECU relearn and check the glow plugs.

[Bidja]

Certainly do MAF and change out filters. Sounds like glow plugs may even be injectors. Mine(CRD) done 160000ks still starts fine and runs clean.

With the deeper drone noise, this can occur if the actuator rod is not lifting up completely for the lever to hit stop (vane angle limit stop screw) or due to lack of vacuum to actuator diaphragm.
With your engine at idle is the actuator rod lifted up so that the lever is hitting the stop screw and still at idle pull the vac hose of the actuator and the rod should drop suddenly?
Check your vac lines?
Do you run stock VNT vac solenoid boost control or manual boost control(Tillix/Dawes)?

[10G]

Thanks everyone for the help.

I run a dawse & needle valve setup. I replaced vac hoses around 6 months ago.

How do I check glow plugs?? Is it safe to remove them??

I'll check the actuator rod and other stuff today.

I did notice that the tacho says it's idling at 400, (I'm pretty sure it always used to sit at around 800) but using my odbcII blutooth tool it's spot on 748-750.

Other thing, my odbc tool says it's sitting at a 'load' of 12-14 while idling. I don't know if that's correct or not, I can't remember ever looking at that value while idling.

Thanks again everyone.

[Bidja]

Glow Plugs removal/test
Not yet done for CRD. Understand_disconnect battery(precaution), remove TMIC (if fitted), remove glow plug electric connection buzz bar and unscrew the seals.
Use long socket(maybe 12mm) to get the glow plugs out, you don't want to stuff up the tops of the old plugs and make it harder to get them out.
Note: use some anti-cease spray on glow plugs work them back and fwd as carbon may build up on probe.

Test with multimeter: Glow plugs resistance should be ~0.8 Ω @ 25°C

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...l=1#post612365

Idle should be around 750rpm, would trust scan tool etc from OBD11 port.

Eng Load _ Idle (stationary) mine is 25% cold and 14 % operating temp (use a h/f turbo/9" pod air box).

When checking actuator make sure you have the needle valve closed. Also have a look and make sure your needle valve (currently), is not wound out too far, causing the rod to have drop excessively and the lever being too far away from stop screw. Too much can cause a throaty noise/drone in induction apart from slow spool rate(laggy). Best to set max boost with dawes having needle fully closed and then unwind needle (@ idle) until the actuator lever just drops away from stop screw. Hope I am not teaching you how to suck eggs mate.

[10G]

Glow Plugs removal/test
Not yet done for CRD. Understand disconnect battery(precaution), remove TMIC (if fitted), remove glow plug electric connection buzz bar, unscrew the seals.
Use long socket(maybe 12mm) to get the glow plugs out, you don't want to stuff up the tops of the old plugs and make it harder to get them out.
Note: use some anti-cease spray on glow plugs work them back and fwd as carbon may build up on probe.

Test with multimeter: Glow plugs resistance should be ~0.8 Ω @ 25°C

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...l=1#post612365

Idle should be around 750rpm, would trust scan tool etc from OBD11 port.

Eng Load _ Idle (stationary) mine is 25% (use a h/f turbo/9" pod air box).

When checking actuator make sure you have the needle valve closed. Also have a look and make sure your needle valve (currently) is not wound out too far, causing the rod to have drop excessively with the lever to sit too far away from stop screw. Too much can cause a throaty noise/drone in induction apart from slow spool rate(laggy). Best to set max boost with dawes having needle fully closed and the unwind needle (@ idle) until the actuator lever just drops away from stop screw. Hope I am not teaching you how to suck eggs mate.

Thanks for your help Bidja, every bit of info is appreciated. there's no egg sucking going on here.