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Thread: 2001 gu series 2 zd30ddti manual wagon blew up

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    2001 gu series 2 zd30ddti manual wagon blew up

    Hi all,

    My motor has just cracked a piston at 250K so I have got a 2nd hand complete motor comin up to me in Cairns that has done a 148k ( so I am assured by the seller.

    The reason I blew the old one was because it had overheated badly a few months ago and unknown to me had warped the head. It's a long story but I should have had it checked out earlier.

    Anyhow I am changing the radiator. Any hints on what to go for . There are some on ebay for a couple 0f hundred $ but I am unsure of their quality.

    Then there are some that are 3 core instead of 2.

    Any suggetions would be appreciated

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  3. #2
    Patrol Guru 0-TJ-0's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhillipA View Post
    Hi all,

    My motor has just cracked a piston at 250K so I have got a 2nd hand complete motor comin up to me in Cairns that has done a 148k ( so I am assured by the seller.

    The reason I blew the old one was because it had overheated badly a few months ago and unknown to me had warped the head. It's a long story but I should have had it checked out earlier.

    Anyhow I am changing the radiator. Any hints on what to go for . There are some on ebay for a couple 0f hundred $ but I am unsure of their quality.

    Then there are some that are 3 core instead of 2.

    Any suggetions would be appreciated
    Go with OEM mate. I started a thread a little while back and got a lot of good feedback.

    An OEM radiator in good repair will serve you well.. after all, I bet that's the first radiator it's ever needed. 18 years service isn't bad.

    If you don't wanna pay the premium for OEM(even though I think it's well worth it if you can afford it) I would recommend an OEM style replacement. I got an Adrad one it it looks pretty well identical to the OEM. I would avoid the cheap alloy eBay gear or your next post will be "help needed with overheating issues since engine swap".

    http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...7-New-radiator

    second page I think has the radiator I went with for my td42.

    I just re-read your post and made me think you're trying to steer away from OEM.. I would suggest it's not the radiators fault unless it's in need of a flush or some maintenance. I'd look at upgrading the fan or at least doing a full system service before changing style of radiator.. because again, prior to this event it's been working just fine for the past 18 years.
    Last edited by 0-TJ-0; 12th September 2019 at 06:08 PM.
    2003 GU TD42 with a few extra ponies

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    The master farter
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    I doubt the overheating would have caused the engine to grenade. These motors just do that. My old ZD never had any cooling issues and number four piston was cracked, and the motor was only 140thou old.
    As for what rad. OEM style is the best.

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    the evil twin (14th September 2019)

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    I am he, fear me the evil twin's Avatar
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    OEM is easily the best Rad choice for the ZD30 Patrols.
    Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.

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    MB (13th September 2019)

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    Bloke above aint saying stuff for shits & giggles, Fair Dinkum always


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    Thanks for the feed back TJ. Sorry to all about my late reply but in my defence to the bottom user's comment I have been a bit busy and havent been sittiing around the computer for the last 24 hours

    I thought I should please explain. The poor old thing was treated pretty well , never thrashed. It overheated badly last year and I was too slow noticing and had to run it a fair while to a safe place on a busy highway to pull up safely. The overflow tube that feeds to the overflow tank had worked loose from the main raditor tank consequenly losing about at least 8 litres to fill up again with coolant. On inspection I noticed that the actual plastic outlet stem the hose connects to was cracked to about 1/2 length. A mechanic told me that often mechanics lean on them when doing work so whatever happened in the past the hose was not clamped back on tightly enough.
    The car seemed to be running OK but unknown to me (my bloody fault for not taking enough notice) it was leaking through the head and losing coolant.

    Any how it all came to a crunch recently overheating again on a trip. Obviously the original damage had already been done. Head off showed it was irrepairable and warped and a small 1 cm crack in the top of a piston.

    So the original radiator was probably OK just some how the little outlet was cracked. Ive been told due to their plastioc nature they can crack but that dosent explain how it became 1/2 it's original length.

    I have been very happy with that car but am afraid I will have to lose her and get something with some more grunt for towing. Incidentally I was talkig to a patrol 2008 4.2l owner who has done 500,000km and it has never mist a beat. Just wish I had gone for one of them all those years ago.

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    I don't think MB was having a go at you. Just agreeing with TET I reckon.

    Well if you're gunna put another one in I'd still go for the OEM. They're good kit.

    As for the TD42.. in standard form you'd be upset you went that way if you're after grunt. They would feel sluggish to you after getting out of the 3.0. Few mods and they go like the clappers though.
    2003 GU TD42 with a few extra ponies

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    MB (14th September 2019)

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    Absolutely wasn’t having a go mate, The Evil Twin is always on the money with top helpful advice!
    FWIW I am a big fan of OEM radiators having owned quite a few variant patrols over the years, 3.0L & 4.2L diesels and 4.2L petrols.


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    Thanks for your good advice fellas,

    OEM or ADRAD it will be

    Rgds Phil

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    MB (15th September 2019)

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