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Thread: TD42 - All Variants Aussie Water Thermostats

  1. #21
    ......... MB's Avatar
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    Well the good news is that all three appear to have identical dimensions including the TD27 88C according to the verniers.


    Only difference I can find under poor light is that both the 82C & 88C have the ‘Jiggle Pin’ and rubber gaskets whereas the 76.5C does not have either.






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    Cremulator (22nd August 2019), mudski (21st August 2019)

  3. #22
    The master farter mudski's Avatar
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    Nice work Mr MB. So whats your plan? Put the coldest stat in and see? Better get a few spare stat housing gaskets and be careful of the long bolt that runs through the top and lower housing. These are known for snapping. add some never seize nickel paste to the thread when putting it back in.
    Last edited by mudski; 22nd August 2019 at 08:22 AM.

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    MB (22nd August 2019)

  5. #23
    ......... MB's Avatar
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    Cheers Mudski mate, will do all


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    Patrol Freak jff45's Avatar
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    I'm wondering why 76 degrees isn't enough to warm inside the car, especially if the air is recirculating as well. You can't hold your hand in 76 degree water.
    The warm up period to reach that temp will be exactly the same regardless of thermostat rating.
    John

    2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body

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    The master farter mudski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jff45 View Post
    I'm wondering why 76 degrees isn't enough to warm inside the car, especially if the air is recirculating as well. You can't hold your hand in 76 degree water.
    The warm up period to reach that temp will be exactly the same regardless of thermostat rating.
    Not sure. In my case, in the cold weather it will struggle to reach 76c. Unless I drive for hours on end to get the heat soak into the block. I took a day run up the snow a few weekends back and on the hill climbs it would just reach 75c, on the down hill it went as low as 40c. But during the summer, or even on a nice 25-30c day, doing the same up hill run I would see north of 100c without even pushing it.
    If I was smart enough to make up some sort of louvered panel system for the front of the radiator to restrict air flow that would be ideal for the colder months here.

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    Patrol Freak jff45's Avatar
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    Do you agree that, if it struggles to reach 76, a higher rated thermostat logically won't make it reach 76 any faster?
    John

    2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body

  9. #27
    The master farter mudski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jff45 View Post
    Do you agree that, if it struggles to reach 76, a higher rated thermostat logically won't make it reach 76 any faster?
    If its struggling to reach 76c yeah I agree. Putting a higher rated stat in will just mean the water wont circulate until it reaches it spec'd opening temp. But in TD42 land. Who knows. It may help, it may not.

    Just thinking more about it. Maybe, MB's heater core might be partially blocked too, there for restricting water flow through it.

  10. #28
    Patrol Freak jff45's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudski View Post
    Just thinking more about it. Maybe, MB's heater core might be partially blocked too, there for restricting water flow through it.
    Or the flap not correctly directing airflow through it.. I was thinking similar things when I wondered why 76 wouldn’t be warm enough.
    John

    2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body

  11. #29
    ......... MB's Avatar
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    The heaters centainly not cold sorry gents and just a few weeks ago cleaned the external heater core only too. Just know in my Chev that switching from 75C to 88C made the heater insanely nice jumping back in the cab from say icy paddock work.
    It is my belief too that old diesel donks seem to prefer running hotter than 76.5C coasting along at best I’m experiencing this winter.
    Our 8.3 work Cummins sits all day on 85C and so too I believe our Louisville tipper.


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    mudski (23rd August 2019)

  13. #30
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    mudski maybe you have a thermostat that is stuck open , so that in winter the coolant is circulating too fast and cooling the motor down and in summer if the coolant circulates to fast it cannot shed heat quick enough as it moves through the radiator to fast ( although this usually only happens when the thermostat is completely removed ) . mb do you have a cabin pollen filter , just thinking it might be blocked , you might still have reasonable air flow as there might be a bypass around the filter and possibly the heater core , its been a while but when i fitted my cabin pollen filter i think i remember that air was able to flow under it . so basically you might not be getting enough air flow thru the heater core to heat the cabin .

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