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FWIW the factory throttle controller on the Y62 (4 modes) is a pleasure to use and harking back to my CRD that thing was a PIA at times offroad over gnarly terrain so a '62 without one would be deadly... literally.
I reckon the CRD would def benefit from an after market throttle controller for 'low and slo' work esp if it is a vehicle that has been tuned up a tad.
The ZD30 issues IMHO are a function of that peaky torque band so the factory throttle is too sensitive down low.
Once a decent tune and/or Dawes/Tillix etc is done to get better low RPM response it magnifies the issue.
Last edited by the evil twin; 29th June 2019 at 06:55 PM.
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
That's what I'm thinking. That was the only concern I had really. There were some rough, rocky sections that I could have just about idled over but idle wasnt enough. The next bit of pressure on the throttle would make an uncontrollable surge. If the throttle was damped down just a tad .. all would be well with the world :-)
Thought I would post a recent dyno trace up that show the different torque / power behavior with and without using a throttle controller. Mine is far from stock these days with, ECU remap, running h/f turbo max boost 27psi, Tillix w/no needle valve (max spool) and 4" induction. You can see from the top graph how the torque and power come (from low revs) in a very controlled linear manner. Does not surge and is actually a pleasure to drive. This suits my setup best.
At same time, I conducted a trial (for comparison purposes) using Tillix (for max boost control ) and the stock VNT Vac Solenoid (in lieu of needle valve) for boost/spool control. This set up was tested with and without the throttle control module and I also observed with this, an improved linear response from low down using the throttle controller. This also worked well with my setup but using only Tillix and throttle controller, provided for greater low down torque which suits my setup (larger turbine to spin up).
Would be worth trying this configuration out with stock ECU/turbo when you decide to introduce manual boost control.
Same as your current setup (VNT vac sol) but incorporating Tillix to control max boost (prevent boost spikes) and use the throttle controller. Some folk are trialing this setup with remapped ECUs but see no reasons why a benefit would not be realized using the stock ECU.
Stock turbo has an advantage that it can spin up faster from low revs(lower mass exhaust wheel).
very interesting. I have had instances where the ecu has cut in with (what must be) an overboost situation. I read on the Patrol reference document how to check if you have the issue. According to that I do. I still havent had the confidence to install the dawes/needle valve yet but that should sort out the boost spikes. It will also give more boost at the lower end of the throttle which is good as long as it's controllable (which the idrive should then control) .. so yeah .. its a step by step process and I am getting there slowly
You don't have to do a lot of mods to achieve good driveability. What engine do you have and mods state? What gauges do you have, eg: boost. EGT and scan tool (manage/record trouble codes)?
With 3" exhaust and using stock VNT vac solenoid to control boost you will get more boost spike than with a stock exhaust. Tillix or Dawes will control max boost (eg:nom 16psi). You need to control max boost with or without the throttle controller.
Suggest U control max boost first.
I have a Dawes valve, a boost take off fitting for under MAP sensor and EDS scan tool (for clearing fault codes), I can help you out with these(save $$$s). Where are you located. No pressure mate. Suggest try running say Dawes/Tillix with VNT vac solenoid(no needle valve). Some will object against this setup but if it works with stock ECU would be worthwhile (very linear spool).
Throttle controller adjusts the signal to the ECU from the Throttle Position Sensor and does remove significant throttle lag caused by drive by wire..
Good that you have an EGT and boost gauge installed. Let us know some readings that you get different situations:
Max Boost you have noted with fast acceleration with load on eng?
Boost and EGT @cruise on hwy slight load @100kph?
EGTs hauling up hill (eng loaded up?
Manual or auto?
Attached is my comparo dyno result_Tillix with VNT vac Solenoid(no needle valve) with and without throttle controller.
I've got the 2013 GU8, manual. The max I have seen boost at is 11 psi. At 110 kph she sits on around 7 to 8 psi even going up reasonable hills. With extreme + long hills (in 5th gear on cruise control at 110 kph), she may get up to 10 psi.
EGT sits around 240 to 280 around town and up to about 80 kph. At 110 kph it's around 320 to 380. On extreme + long hills (again 5th gear on cruise control at 110 kph) I have seen it at 520.
I had a dyno test done before Christmas and gauges are accurate and performance was higher than stock car. I cannot for the life of me find the results. I might call the dyno centre and ask if they still have them on record.
I live in Bunbury West Australia. Thanks for the offer to help out, but I think you might be a bit far away :-)
Your EGTs look good but the max boost @11 psi is way too low. You need to get a scan tool onto it and see if you have not a limp fault. Max boost should be up around 15-16psi (without limp) and would expect to see higher boost spikes or bounce with stock boost control with the 3" exhaust fitted (possible cause of limp).
Try disconnecting your battery over night, may force the ECU to reset. Might be worth checking you vacuum hoses, for damage to VNT vac solenoid and to the actuator on turbo, and also your boost hoses and connection/clamps from turbo to intercooler (hot side) and from intercooler to inlet manifold(cold side). Not sure how much you understand?
Good if you could get onto the dyno result, especially ask if they can provide Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) and Manifold Pressure (psi) data along with the power and torque result.
Can talk you thru install of tillix/dawes and maybe retain the VNT vac solenoid to start with and replace the 3mm vac hoses if looking suss(pretty cheap to buy). To help you out could would post over dawes, boost take off adapter and some fittings plus the EDS scan tool ($100+post) maybe all up less than $120. Check new prices.
Question: What does your intercooler look like, any oil smear (leaking) especially where tanks join the core.
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