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Thread: ZD30 highflow airbox and intake LIMP MODE!!

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bidja View Post
    Arrow has to point toward vacuum pick up at engine not to air filter / intake, check Westy's youtube video.

    There is no vac on air filter/induction side.
    yes correct this is how it is.
    other side of my needle valve i have an air filter for where air is drawn in, the arrow points arrow from this..

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  3. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by sn5013 View Post
    yes correct this is how it is.
    other side of my needle valve i have an air filter for where air is drawn in, the arrow points arrow from this..
    i should have just said the needle valve is installed correctly, i know this because i adjust my spool rate daily haha

  4. #33
    Patrol God bigguwesty's Avatar
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    Ok so if you know there are no leaks we have to set it correctly.
    First up.
    Stop fiddling..
    Number one cause of frustration.

    To set.
    Close needle right off.
    Then on an open stretch get into third gear about 1800 rpm and accelerate through to 3500 rpm.
    Set max boost to 16psi.

    There isn't much point going high with stock turbo.
    My saying is there is only so much air you can blow through a straw...

    Once your happy with 16psi max open the needle while the car is at idle untill you see the vnt arm just drop off the stopper.

    Lock it in.

    Give it a while.
    If it hits limp open needle a little more.
    But only open it like 1/8 a turn at a time. It's very fiddly.
    Once you found the sweet spot leave it.

    Also as mentioned before it's all mechanical so takes time to react.
    Try applying throttle inline with rpm instead of mashing the pedal.
    You'll get a better response and less limp..

    At the end of the day the stock ECU will only take so much..
    East coast performance tuning are the go to guys for the Di.
    One of, if not the first to crack the di ECU.

    All other mods like bigger maf housings and maf clips simply mask the issue and lean out the engine.
    So revert to that straw quote.
    You'll have fully sick boost but zero extra power as your not adding fuel to suit....
    Hope it helps

    Sent from my SM-G977B using Tapatalk
    Cheers
    Kallen Westbrook

  5. The Following User Says Thank You to bigguwesty For This Useful Post:

    Bidja (5th July 2019)

  6. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigguwesty View Post
    Ok so if you know there are no leaks we have to set it correctly.
    First up.
    Stop fiddling..
    Number one cause of frustration.

    To set.
    Close needle right off.
    Then on an open stretch get into third gear about 1800 rpm and accelerate through to 3500 rpm.
    Set max boost to 16psi.

    There isn't much point going high with stock turbo.
    My saying is there is only so much air you can blow through a straw...

    Once your happy with 16psi max open the needle while the car is at idle untill you see the vnt arm just drop off the stopper.

    Lock it in.

    Give it a while.
    If it hits limp open needle a little more.
    But only open it like 1/8 a turn at a time. It's very fiddly.
    Once you found the sweet spot leave it.

    Also as mentioned before it's all mechanical so takes time to react.
    Try applying throttle inline with rpm instead of mashing the pedal.
    You'll get a better response and less limp..

    At the end of the day the stock ECU will only take so much..
    East coast performance tuning are the go to guys for the Di.
    One of, if not the first to crack the di ECU.

    All other mods like bigger maf housings and maf clips simply mask the issue and lean out the engine.
    So revert to that straw quote.
    You'll have fully sick boost but zero extra power as your not adding fuel to suit....
    Hope it helps

    Sent from my SM-G977B using Tapatalk
    Hi mate, what you just mentioned to do is exactly what i did to set the tillix when first installed, it ran great.
    have since added the new air box and got limp issues so i went through the tillix install and re-did everything including setting the actuator arm, max boost, running all new hosing, boost leak test etc. regardless of what i do it still hits limp mode at these certain speeds when running 15 or 16psi boost

    1800 rpm and accelerate through to 3500 rpm.- this is hard to do in an auto that likes to jump around a bit haha.

    Should mention im running the billet demon pro turbo along with a diesel power chip and ad one point had 18psi max running flawlessly and responded very well at 18psi.

    if i drop max boost down to 12/13 psi i dont get any limp mode issues under any circumstances but i also notice the performance drop off so trying to find that happy medium.
    appreciate everyone input.

  7. #35
    Patrol Guru Bidja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sn5013 View Post
    Hi mate, what you just mentioned to do is exactly what i did to set the tillix when first installed, it ran great.
    have since added the new air box and got limp issues so i went through the tillix install and re-did everything including setting the actuator arm, max boost, running all new hosing, boost leak test etc. regardless of what i do it still hits limp mode at these certain speeds when running 15 or 16psi boost

    1800 rpm and accelerate through to 3500 rpm.- this is hard to do in an auto that likes to jump around a bit haha.

    Should mention im running the billet demon pro turbo along with a diesel power chip and ad one point had 18psi max running flawlessly and responded very well at 18psi.

    if i drop max boost down to 12/13 psi i dont get any limp mode issues under any circumstances but i also notice the performance drop off so trying to find that happy medium.
    appreciate everyone input.
    So any changes to induction will impact on rate of spool up (eg: speed that the turbine will spin up and can cause an over boost situation).

    I have ECPT remap (postal & several live tunes), procharge stage3 h/F turbo, full NADS, max boost 27psi, T&F JT cooler, 4"induction / 9" pod filter and no limp issues. Adjusted actuator rod to improve spool up low down to suit my setup (many hrs of live testing).

    So how did you adjust your actuator rod: direction/how much/current "Hg for lever to hit stop? Need to know of your experience and what you have observed.

    Suggest you work up boost from 12/13 psi.
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

  8. #36
    Patrol God bigguwesty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sn5013 View Post
    Hi mate, what you just mentioned to do is exactly what i did to set the tillix when first installed, it ran great.
    have since added the new air box and got limp issues so i went through the tillix install and re-did everything including setting the actuator arm, max boost, running all new hosing, boost leak test etc. regardless of what i do it still hits limp mode at these certain speeds when running 15 or 16psi boost

    1800 rpm and accelerate through to 3500 rpm.- this is hard to do in an auto that likes to jump around a bit haha.

    Should mention im running the billet demon pro turbo along with a diesel power chip and ad one point had 18psi max running flawlessly and responded very well at 18psi.

    if i drop max boost down to 12/13 psi i dont get any limp mode issues under any circumstances but i also notice the performance drop off so trying to find that happy medium.
    appreciate everyone input.
    Ok so your well past what stock ECU can handle.
    Imo throw that chip in the bin before you do damage. All they do is ramp pressure up.

    Back to basics but how long since you've cleaned the maf sensor?

    And can you check maf voltage? You may have an issue with it but there an expensive part. Only buy genuine maf sensor..

    Sent from my SM-G977B using Tapatalk
    Cheers
    Kallen Westbrook

  9. #37
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    Sorry all, havnt been online much latley..

    bigguwesty-
    I dont run the chip full time, mainly only plugged in when going offroad and watning the bit of extra power, funnily it seams this helps with limp mode a little when its plugged in.
    Maf sensor is cleaned every 5000, currently i dont have a way to read maf voltage live but will be getting an ECUtalk soon to monitor a few things. trying to find someone with a spare MAF so i can do a test and tick that off as a problem.

  10. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by sn5013 View Post
    So the HPD maf mousing helped the limp issue?
    Quote Originally Posted by mudski View Post
    Uhm, yep!

    Dont even bother piss farting around trying to tune out limp mode. Your seriously flogging a dead horse. Either put a resistor inline on the MAF, buy the HPD MAF housing or get some sort of chippy plug in device to get rid of limp. Seriously...
    Been there and done that with the exact same model as yours. Once you get rid of it, boost away. Theres more power to be had over 16psi. I had dyno results showing it.

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