Harrop 2300 supercharger to Optimiser 6500

[PeeBee]

Overdrive Gears and spacer arrived today, picked up replacement main shaft bearing 'just in case'. Installation Dec 15
gears.JPG

[PeeBee]

Few stats from a couple of days away out to Vic East Gippsland. Ambient temp circa 30 degC
Cruising Speed 110kph, 2000rpm, 33" tyres 3.9 diffs and 5 speed manual trans ( using two GPS speed references) 100kph - 1925rpm - fuel consumption circa 18.5l/100klm - off fuel flow meter
Cruising fuel consumption 21L/100klm @110kph - off fuel flow meter
Boost 14psi
Under bonnet temps 88-92 degC
Inlet air temp to s/c 41C
Inlet air post s/c i/c and to engine 46C - measured in one leg of inlet manifold
Inlet water temp to Interchiller 28C
Water temp post i/c coil 39C
Rad temp inlet temp post engine 82-88degC
Rad water temp post radiator 70 - 76C
Trans temp 68DegC
Transfer case temp 68DegC
Oil temp off cooler 42degC
Fuel pressure 10psi
EGT 170DegC
Running AFM water injection spray into inlet of s/c from 5psi
I/c pump flow rate 54lpm
I/c Pump system pressure 32psi thru 3/4" hoses
Modified external spray bar on radiator when in low range drops temp 5 deg in under a minute, however the water mist does lubricate the 8 rib belt and it will squeal. Rad temps rise quickly to 94degC at slow speed, moderate eng revs, then hit button to knock it back down - happy with this set up.

So happy with everything except the fuel consumption right now. Over drive gears go in this tuesday, so cruising rpm should drop to 1730 - 1800 and fuel consumption drop accordingly. Will see.

Only negative is i think the a/c pump is struggling under the pump pressure or the clutch is struggling as it appears to be getting so hot it won't release when de-energised - sort of a stutter when the engine is actually turned off shortly after a run - could be a faulty clutch as well i guess but its only run for less than 3000klm at most.

[MB]

Awesome honest update info Philstar Mate
From what I remember of the old 6.5NA Shed Queen

Those snippet (apologies) basic radiator temperatures are beyond perfect IMO.

Again apologise for picture snippet but spray systems I’ve embarrassingly helped install on close mates TD42T’s are a dead set waste of time. As you kindly pass on, very short lived help and merely a bandaid for an insufficient setup




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[PeeBee]

@MB, in low range they control the heat rise beautifully on my installation. The simple solution is good radiator coverage and ample water for the right amount of time. The first two spray bars i installed failed miserably. The sprays were too fine and the volume too low. I ended up going to a local irrigation shop and buying brass spray heads at 1LPM rating and 180 deg spray pattern. I run 4 of them off a 4LPM diaphragm pump. They could be be described as a deluge nozzle, large water droplets. I don't know what the actual delivered flowrate is, and cannot tell if the pump is cycling or not when its on against any back pressure. I didn't bother trying at speed as my temps were totally under control.

Regards 'insufficient system', maybe a bit harsh for the poor old radiator. Its no doubt working a lot harder that Mr Nissan designed it for,(certainly the real estate area afforded for a radiator on the Nissan is a lot smaller than the US tanks) plus there would be a lot of motors and cooling systems out there that have been jinked around with and not running to factory speck anymore. My system does the job, costs under $100 and takes 4 hrs to fabricate and install. If you are running a vee belt drive i would guess the belts may not squeal like the shallow 8 rib, but this is a short lived interruption to my tranquility as the water quickly evaporates.

[MB]

Late night harshness whoops
1 litre per minute, how many hours climbing through to the Zoo camp X litres X weight guesstimated? Have you got a decent elecy thermo fan out front shoveling slow speed air through Philstar?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[PeeBee]

Late night harshness whoops
1 litre per minute, how many hours climbing through to the Zoo camp X litres X weight guesstimated? Have you got a decent elecy thermo fan out front shoveling slow speed air through Philstar?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The water is drawn from the on-board water tank. It holds 120L. If I draw down 20L in a weekend trip I would be surprised, especially at how effective the water wash is at transferring the heat. I run a monster 16" elec fan on the front of the radiator in-line with the mechanical. It pushes 2500cfm supposedly. I have a couple of smaller 12V fans sitting around and am always able to shuffle this one across a couple of inches and whack another 1000cfm+ thru the radiator if required. The removal of the grill itself has made a considerable difference I believe also. The elec fan is on all the time as its pushing air thru the two condensers for the Interchiller setup.

[PeeBee]

Truck stopped on the way out of the campsite on friday. Process of elimination revealed an in-line fuel shut off valve, solenoid actuated, off an anti theft setup had triggered the valve to close, and subsequently the engine ran out of fuel, as designed, only problem being that i had not triggered the valve to close. Today, I started looking further and what should have been a zero voltage relay output, has now decided to turn into a 0- 1.44 - 2.77V - 0 circular pulse to the relay . This is at rest, no engine running, so in fact may be higher again with the engine on. Lucky i had spare fuel hose and clamps to allow me to take the valve out of the fuel line, and get home to resolve. Off the road for maybe 30 mins, but covered in diesel all the way home - stinky shit it is.

Update, manufacturer contacted me from WA and is dumbfounded how this can happen, wants the unit back, together with the relay to see if there is in fact a fault with the unit, well, there is obviously as it should not trigger by itself. Will wait and see what the outcome is.

[poindexter]

"Under bonnet temps 88-92 degC"
that right there is a problem....

everything under the hood is being cooked, does the hood scoop not allow any heat to escape?
maybe raise the trailing edge of the hood to see if letting out the heat would drop the temps.

I'll check with the powertrain boys at work to see what they think, but to me thats seems high

[PeeBee]

"Under bonnet temps 88-92 degC"
that right there is a problem....

everything under the hood is being cooked, does the hood scoop not allow any heat to escape?
maybe raise the trailing edge of the hood to see if letting out the heat would drop the temps.

I'll check with the powertrain boys at work to see what they think, but to me thats seems high

Ralph, I am sure this is leading to the elevated inlet air temps to the s/c due to heat soak of the airbox and the air pipe. i am going to insulate both. I am also planning on a 6mm shim to begin with to raise the rear of the bonnet. I had a look today regards fitting the 4" bilge blowers and it is so tight now. I may have to retreat to 3" simply for space, however I think this is an area for improvement for sure. Only other thing I could bank on is some inaccuracy with the probes, however these are used elsewhere and have proved to be quite accurate, at most 2degC off during an IR check. I am also going to speak to Bullet about an insulation blanket over the externals of the blower. I also run an insulated blanket between the s/c inlet manifold and the motor valley - FI Interchillers sell that for about $100.

The big scoop is ineffective over about 30klm/hr according to the telltale ribbons i have used in the past - simply need to now stir up the air volume and force it out

[PeeBee]

Bit the bullet - again, and picked up a pair of BOSS rear spring mount stiffeners from Patrol A Part. Got a welcome and unexpected discount as well, having mentioned the Forum exposure they have. They will sit there for a job over the Xmas break I think.