Harrop 2300 supercharger to Optimiser 6500

[MudRunnerTD]

Thank You Men for your kind thoughts. Tardis not avail for number plate, just checked

Bhahahaha love it.

TRDISS
TARDES
TRDIS
TAADIS

[PeeBee]

Yeah, well $495 for a pair of plates that will see the light of day 6 times a year is a bit 'off the menu' right now. I think the TAADIS is the winner though.

[PeeBee]

OK, almost there, just have to put a/c refrigerant into it and its done. Hooked up the tank, pump and power, hoses double insulated, pump flows at 41LPM, draws 19.8amps and pressure in system somewhere around 18 -20psi - unsure as the needle wrapped around on a 15psi gauge - seem to be making a habit of this! Onto ebay to get a 30psi gauge now. So will book it in this week and let you know the results. Unfortunately the temp gauges to match the probes for before and after the intercooler -water temps -have not arrived, however do have sensors in the inlet airstream to the s/c and in the manifold post the w2A unit pre the engine , so that will give the best indication I think of effect.

[PeeBee]

OK, the results are in, but not completely accurate.

The system was gassed up today and took the vehicle for a 100klm spin down the freeway and back home. Ambient temps were cool - 13 degC.

Pre interchiller installation cruising EGT at 100kmhr in 5th were 300 degC on the knocker. They are now 200degC even on both exhaust headers.
Pre interchiller installation, 'stick the boot in in 5th accelerating to well above the speed limit', circa 500degC, post temps no higher than 320degC

I have an issue with the inlet and post s/c/intercooler air temp readings as they are both reading around 60 degC higher than where they should be - inlet air reading 72degc on a 13 deg day for example - spoke with the supplier just now and he is baffled. The 4 sensor units I have are unfortunately 3 old series and 1 later, so set up is different. I will do some swapping around to check the probe accuracy then go from there - just a bit more effort! Initially he thought this probe may have been set in degF, but its not as all devices measure the same resting temp after a night in the garage.

Boost at 100kmhr is 14psi - holds flat, wont go over that, happy with the response and performance, so another win.

Cabin a/c remains icy cold with the normal running mode, and with it in the stage 2/race track mode, with no cooling to the cabin, ie all cooling going to the engine w2a unit, could not detect any cooling performance increase, however I think the sensors are incorrectly calibrated - will be chasing that down next week with some industrial instrumentation guys I know.

Was running the cabin with the heater on as well, however this is a no no according to FI Interchiller, so will redo the runs without the heater on and see what result I get. The a/c can cycle on and off due to the heat sensor in the cabin - my error, but wasn't aware of this.

Anyway, truck runs really well, and having the grunt at 100kmhr is great, sort of like you are driving on the cusp of a power bank to some degree. Happy days, remains a work in progress - intrigue.

[PeeBee]

OK, been thinking about this issue of the air temp readings and doing some research. I believe the probe used in the airstream is incorrectly configured for air, its a probe configured for liquid - very different type of measurement head and technology required. I am going to swap out the air sensors into the water sensor pick-up points as still waiting for the gauges to arrive - I am sure this will give me the right temperature readings. I have ordered two HVAC style temperature probes and a matched digital display from the UK that is configured specifically for air. I also will move the incoming air probe position closer towards the air filter box. It is currently 250mm away from the inlet to the s/c. Reading the guff from Kenne Bell in the US, the IAT should be measured close to the air filter for the most accurate comparison.

Picked up some further info tonight that I have been chasing without luck previously. The temp rise across a twin screw blower is approx. 10 degF per PSI boost. The terminal temperature of the air leaving the blower is further boosted by the ambient temp (plus any heat soak effect from under bonnet temps), so if I convert to DegC, at 14psi boost, today, I would have had an ambient temp of 12degC plus a 60DegC temp rise thru the blower, hence the air temp leaving the blower would have been circa 72DegC. This temp hits the w2a intercooler core. The info I am missing is the actual chilled water temp, pre and aft the w2a unit, which I will get by swapping out the probes as mentioned tomorrow. From there I should be able to calculate the expected temp drop across the coil, however the new UK temp probes will be the final determinant as they are calibrated and guaranteed accurate within 0.5degC.

The journey continues. All good stuff I reckon. I think it is time to crank the water injection system up as well and see what the total cooling effect is - not going the full water/methanol route at this time, just water.

Here is the link to the dual probes and gauge

https://www.mainline-sensors.co.uk/c...sensor-1-8-npt

[PeeBee]

OK, bit of an update and pics. I swapped out the temp probes and basically as advised earlier, they were way off. I used a calibrated instrument this time and the numbers are closer to where they should be. In broad term, with the interchiller doing the cooling , my inlet air temps are approx. 40 deg less than if I was not running it, ie if no intercooler was in play at all. The unknown value is what tangible benefit does the interchiller have on lowering the inlet air temp beyond what a w2a unit would achieve, and what effect does this have on EGT's. Todays results as follows.

Ambient temp was 18 degC. Coolant temp was around 9 - 10 degC. Inlet air temp into the engine post the s/c was 30deg C at 10psi boost. Without the w2a/Interchiller in play, in theory the inlet temp to the engine would have been around 71DegC, according to the literature I have read. From here I will be installing better devices and monitoring what is happening. I have already gained a 100degC drop in EGT's at 100klm/hr so its looking good.
Air temp into engine post sc..JPGAmbient temp today.JPGcoolant tank temp.JPGgarlic bread insulation.JPG

I still have a coolant leak, so this is going to bug me until fixed, and its buried somewhere down low and hidden it seems. I also may have a supercharger to manifold leak as there is a little bit of wind coming out between/around one of the inlet legs - bugger.

[PeeBee]

@poindexter, if you are looking to upgrade the 'duty rating' of the 6 rib belt, have a look at the fleetguard belts. They are a lot stiffer, but do make a bit of noise for the first 5 minutes or so until they warm up - sort of like the old cross ply tyres and flat spots over night. I found these, even on the 8 ribs, don't stretch like the standard duty Gates belts.

[MudRunnerTD]

garlic bread insulation.JPG

Holy Mother of God!!!!

[MudRunnerTD]

Apollo13 airbox pic.jpeg

Love your work Phil.... That is Epic mate.. Can Not Wait to see this thing in the flesh mate.

[PeeBee]

Thanks Darren, down to the last three bee stings I reckon, W2A water leak, what I think might be a manifold leak between the s/c and inlet manifold and the cruise control. Its still got a pile of 'noises' I need to get used to, then after understanding how to drive it, pay less attention to the instrumentation and just enjoy it.