OUR VIDEOS GALLERY MEMBER SPONSORSHIP VENDOR SPONSORSHIP

User Tag List

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 13

Thread: Timing cover removal 2006 3.0DDi

  1. #1
    Expert
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    282
    Thanks
    137
    Thanked 94 Times in 44 Posts
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Question Timing cover removal 2006 3.0DDi

    I have compression issues with #1 and 2 cylinders--both fail to hold compression. #3 and 4 are fine.
    Initial diagnosis says there is a blown head gasket between those two.
    Has anyone been successful in removing the front timing cover without removing the engine. History from the "water leak" issue I had earlier says the vacuum pump shaft is too long to get the cover off, even with the radiator out.
    Any comments, suggestions welcome, otherwise I need to lift the engine out--bummer.
    Thanks
    Gary
    GU IV 2006; 3.0 DDi ST-S; Nissan Snorkel, Bull Bar and Tow Bar; Warn 8,000# Winch with Dyneema rope; Auber EGT, Boost and dual Battery gauges; Provent 200; Dual Batteries; Three Dogs recovery points; Rear Springs +20% load; Outback drawers and Cargo Barrier; UHF; [GPS, Radio, CD, Bluetooth, SD, USB] floor extension; Alloy roof rack
    "Smart people know what they don't know"

  2. # ADS
    Circuit advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many

     

  3. #2
    The master farter
    mudski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Eltham North
    Posts
    15,597
    Thanks
    8,667
    Thanked 11,264 Times in 6,427 Posts
    Mentioned
    460 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    @Hodge.
    As far as I know. Its an engine out job.

    Edit : Well. Do what I should have done when my 3ltr shat itself. Drop a Cummins it in. If only I knew back then what I knew now I wouldn't have put a TD in.
    Last edited by mudski; 3rd April 2019 at 08:28 PM.

  4. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to mudski For This Useful Post:

    Dr Gary (4th April 2019), rusty_nail (3rd April 2019)

  5. #3
    Patrol God
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    6,600
    Thanks
    5,699
    Thanked 6,097 Times in 3,139 Posts
    Mentioned
    174 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    If it's leaking from where I think it's leaking than it's not unusual for these motors to do this.

    My ex-3L crd is still leaking just like this. And has been since 2011.
    Common on the zd30 I'm lead to believe. Sandwich plate at timing cover.

    When I ran around looking for a fix or someone to fix it , was told it's a motor out jobbie.
    There are some posts on the other forum with people getting it done in-situ , but in the end they all said it would have been a far less tedious job if motor got yanked out. Some of them posts have a lot of info and photos.

    Personally I left mine as is and just monitor and top up once a month as required. During warmer months it virtually did not leak due to metal expansion I believe compressing the leak hole.
    The current owner which I see all the time , does exactly the same .


    Sent from my SM-N920I using Tapatalk
    2005 TD42TI

  6. The Following User Says Thank You to Hodge For This Useful Post:

    Dr Gary (4th April 2019)

  7. #4
    Expert
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    282
    Thanks
    137
    Thanked 94 Times in 44 Posts
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Hi Mudski: you are probably correct but I have had too many birthdays to be rebuilding at this stage. Should have done it when I had the engine out to do the water leak.
    GU IV 2006; 3.0 DDi ST-S; Nissan Snorkel, Bull Bar and Tow Bar; Warn 8,000# Winch with Dyneema rope; Auber EGT, Boost and dual Battery gauges; Provent 200; Dual Batteries; Three Dogs recovery points; Rear Springs +20% load; Outback drawers and Cargo Barrier; UHF; [GPS, Radio, CD, Bluetooth, SD, USB] floor extension; Alloy roof rack
    "Smart people know what they don't know"

  8. The Following User Says Thank You to Dr Gary For This Useful Post:

    mudski (5th April 2019)

  9. #5
    Expert
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    282
    Thanks
    137
    Thanked 94 Times in 44 Posts
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Hi Hodge: Actually did the engine out water repair a few years back, just a slight bow in the steel plate behind the timing gear. $50 fix for $3K. This is no compression between #1 and #2.
    GU IV 2006; 3.0 DDi ST-S; Nissan Snorkel, Bull Bar and Tow Bar; Warn 8,000# Winch with Dyneema rope; Auber EGT, Boost and dual Battery gauges; Provent 200; Dual Batteries; Three Dogs recovery points; Rear Springs +20% load; Outback drawers and Cargo Barrier; UHF; [GPS, Radio, CD, Bluetooth, SD, USB] floor extension; Alloy roof rack
    "Smart people know what they don't know"

  10. #6
    The master farter
    mudski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Eltham North
    Posts
    15,597
    Thanks
    8,667
    Thanked 11,264 Times in 6,427 Posts
    Mentioned
    460 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Do you need to remove the timing cover to remove the head in the Di? Its been a while since I last looked at one of these motors. Let hope it is just a head gasket.

  11. #7
    Expert
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    282
    Thanks
    137
    Thanked 94 Times in 44 Posts
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by mudski View Post
    Do you need to remove the timing cover to remove the head in the Di? Its been a while since I last looked at one of these motors. Let hope it is just a head gasket.
    The head carries a camshaft that runs off the timing chain at the top part of the front. That covers the drive to the camshaft, so needs to come off.

    I suspect I can get the front cover off, and that MAY be enough. I will report later.
    GU IV 2006; 3.0 DDi ST-S; Nissan Snorkel, Bull Bar and Tow Bar; Warn 8,000# Winch with Dyneema rope; Auber EGT, Boost and dual Battery gauges; Provent 200; Dual Batteries; Three Dogs recovery points; Rear Springs +20% load; Outback drawers and Cargo Barrier; UHF; [GPS, Radio, CD, Bluetooth, SD, USB] floor extension; Alloy roof rack
    "Smart people know what they don't know"

  12. The Following User Says Thank You to Dr Gary For This Useful Post:

    mudski (5th April 2019)

  13. #8
    Expert
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    282
    Thanks
    137
    Thanked 94 Times in 44 Posts
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    OK so I now know the issue is the two front pistons are stuffed--not in the top but down the side. Really bad scoring of the bore in both cylinders. It looks like #2 has been hot, but I guess if a piston or rings or other debris is running up and down the bore it will get hot. No warning on EGT. Injector spray pattern and pressures are all about right.
    Does anyone know if this is a "wet sleeve" motor?? Alternative is a rebore and oversize pistons--not my preferred choice.
    This has been an expensive poor choice--I opted for the 3.0 because the kw rating was higher than the 4.2 Now I pay the price for the third time--clutch, water leak and now ??? Oh well.
    GU IV 2006; 3.0 DDi ST-S; Nissan Snorkel, Bull Bar and Tow Bar; Warn 8,000# Winch with Dyneema rope; Auber EGT, Boost and dual Battery gauges; Provent 200; Dual Batteries; Three Dogs recovery points; Rear Springs +20% load; Outback drawers and Cargo Barrier; UHF; [GPS, Radio, CD, Bluetooth, SD, USB] floor extension; Alloy roof rack
    "Smart people know what they don't know"

  14. #9
    Patrol God
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    6,600
    Thanks
    5,699
    Thanked 6,097 Times in 3,139 Posts
    Mentioned
    174 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Gary View Post
    OK so I now know the issue is the two front pistons are stuffed--not in the top but down the side. Really bad scoring of the bore in both cylinders. It looks like #2 has been hot, but I guess if a piston or rings or other debris is running up and down the bore it will get hot. No warning on EGT. Injector spray pattern and pressures are all about right.
    Does anyone know if this is a "wet sleeve" motor?? Alternative is a rebore and oversize pistons--not my preferred choice.
    This has been an expensive poor choice--I opted for the 3.0 because the kw rating was higher than the 4.2 Now I pay the price for the third time--clutch, water leak and now ??? Oh well.
    Would a re-co motor or a swap out from wreckers be more viable than spending more time and $ rebuilding it ?
    2005 TD42TI

  15. The Following User Says Thank You to Hodge For This Useful Post:

    Dr Gary (18th April 2019)

  16. #10
    Expert
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    282
    Thanks
    137
    Thanked 94 Times in 44 Posts
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Hodge View Post
    Would a re-co motor or a swap out from wreckers be more viable than spending more time and $ rebuilding it ?
    The rebuild is similar $$'s to re-co motor. They also fit a new head. I know the rebuilder and they are local. Time is not critical--except I am reduced to borrowing my wife's Territory
    4.2 turnkey is $20k plus, Duramax $40k--too rich for me especially as I do not tow anything.
    GU IV 2006; 3.0 DDi ST-S; Nissan Snorkel, Bull Bar and Tow Bar; Warn 8,000# Winch with Dyneema rope; Auber EGT, Boost and dual Battery gauges; Provent 200; Dual Batteries; Three Dogs recovery points; Rear Springs +20% load; Outback drawers and Cargo Barrier; UHF; [GPS, Radio, CD, Bluetooth, SD, USB] floor extension; Alloy roof rack
    "Smart people know what they don't know"

  17. The Following User Says Thank You to Dr Gary For This Useful Post:

    Hodge (11th April 2019)

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •