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Thread: Clutch issue? Advice needed.

  1. #1
    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    Clutch issue? Advice needed.

    Yesterday we drove a 100km round trip. On the way home with around 25kms to go we started noticing a noise whenever I let out the clutch pedal. It was a squeaky kind of a noise & I could feel it with my foot on the pedal. It seemed to be worse if I let the pedal out quickly. Sometimes letting the pedal out carefully & gently there was no noise or feel through the pedal. At first I thought the feel was just the rubber sole of my shoe slipping a bit on the rubber pedal pad - but that wasn't it, I only mention it in an attempt to describe how it felt.

    Normal smooth operation when pushing the clutch pedal in. No noise etc.

    Operation of the clutch did not seem to be affected (no dragging/slipping/juddering, gearchanging normal) & I thought perhaps dust had got into the pedal pivoting mechanism & I decided to give it a squirt of lube today.

    However it turns out that the pivot mechanism is fairly high up below the dash making it impossible to see what was going on.

    So no lube.

    I tried operating the pedal this morning, both with & without engine running. (Not driving, just stationary). No noise, & no 'feel' through the pedal.

    What I did notice however was that if I pumped the pedal several times the pedal feel would stiffen up, not a lot but was noticeable. More so with the engine running.

    This made me wonder if perhaps I had a hydraulic fluid leak...... but no evidence of any leak around the 'actuating arm' on the gearbox & the reservoir fluid level is on the max line (actually about 3mm above the max line.) EDIT. Just had MrsTea operating the clutch whilst I observed fluid level in master cylinder. It didn't go up or down.

    So I'm now uncertain as to whether I have a problem or not. My gut feeling is that I have I have picked up something early & that it is probably wise to get it sorted before heading into more remote areas of the Kimberley. We will now be in Broome for a month when we leave the Dampier Peninsula so that would be the time to get stuff sorted if it needs it. I'm wondering if it may be the clutch master cylinder on the way out.

    We will be covering at least another 3-400kms before we are situated back in Broome, if the master cylinder were on the way out (or anything else for that matter) are there any specific signs/symptoms I should observe for?

    Thanks
    Cuppa
    Last edited by Cuppa; 30th March 2019 at 04:15 PM.

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
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  3. #2
    The 747 Winnie's Avatar
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    Mine has been doing this for a long time and I haven't been too worried about it, but I would be interested to see what you find cuppa.

    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

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    Patrol Freak Bidja's Avatar
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    Does not sound like thrust bearing as would squeal when you apply pressure to disengage the clutch.

    The clutch reservoir is the smaller closer to engine. The pedal more than likely got harder when operating it with motor not running(normal).

    Mine clutch pedal use to squeak(now stopped). Have a look high up the pedal arm (edge closet to you looking), there is a coil spring that acts as a torsion spring, having 2 legged ends that locate between support frame and pedal arm to ensure that it rests hard up against screw stop (maybe a relay sensor type switch), when foot is off clutch pedal. It looks as there are some nylon bushings that the spring end are located and rotate in. I would spray some silicon up around the area as recon need some friction modifier applied. Worth at try first.

    What I did notice however was that if I pumped the pedal several times the pedal feel would stiffen up, not a lot but was noticeable. More so with the engine running.
    ???
    Last edited by Bidja; 30th March 2019 at 04:21 PM.
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

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    Cuppa (30th March 2019)

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    Patrol Guru 0-TJ-0's Avatar
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    As far as I knew they were a vacuum assisted clutch.. so if you pump it quickly you'll run put of vacuum and the clutch will stiffen. So that sounds normal. Mine does it too.

    No idea about the squeak though mate. Doesn't sound too serious but don't want to get stuck either

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    Cuppa (30th March 2019)

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    G`day Cuppa.
    As Bidja has suggested above, possibly clutch pedal pivot,dry or slightly dusty and a spray would more than likely cure the problem. One thing wipe off all excess lube, excess is a great magnet for dirt and dust. Pumping the pedal quickly will bleed the vacuum from the small booster and it will not recover as quick as the brake booster, IE hard pedal untill it recovers. Also the feel and noise may come from the thrust bearing or the thrust lever pivot. If the pivot is dry or there has been dust or water ingress the pivot may be noisy, very hard to lube with out removal of bell housing. Thrust bearing, there are two pivot points on the thrust but the wear would be very minimal and again impossible to get to lube.Also the thrust runs back and forth on a shaft this may also be slightly dry and could also create a slight noise . But first thoughts are the pedal pivot.
    Stay safe mate, hope its the pedal pivot.

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    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    Thanks folks, especially to pearcey whom I have spoken with on the blower.

    I was pumping the pedal quickly before feeling it stiffen. Good to know this is not a problem.

    Which just leaves the noise/pedal feeling. It did sound like it was inside the cab so I'm hopeful that a bit of contortionism combined with some PTFE dry lube into the nylon pivot bush will do the job.

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
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    0-TJ-0 (30th March 2019)

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    Patrol Freak Bidja's Avatar
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    @Cuppa Had a look at mine, easy to remove lower skirt of dash below steering column and get a better visual of the pivot points and spring. Just need to remove the hood and fuel filler latches (hex hd bolts), you do not remove latches from cables only the retaining bolts and after you remove the skirt retaining screws the skirt will slip away towards you and the latches stay behind with a fiddle around. Had mine off many times.

    The spring is a double inline coil setup and the center straight section (between the two coils) attaches to the pedal arm and two opposing ends locate in each side of the support frame.
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

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    Cuppa (31st March 2019)

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    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    Thanks @Bidja, should be even easier on mine then as I dont have any fuel filler latches.

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
    A Nomadic Life (Blog)

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    Bidja (31st March 2019)

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    Dunno if you got the issue fixed (i know its an older post), but for all those out there .. I had the same issue. When I got the car serviced the mechanic (also a GU Y61 owner) said he had the same problem. Even had an extension made to lube the cable and also the pivot (my terminology) on the fork arm. The clutch is very light now compared to before and no more noise .. has been good for around 5000 km's so far

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    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by timbo2410 View Post
    Dunno if you got the issue fixed (i know its an older post), but for all those out there .. I had the same issue. When I got the car serviced the mechanic (also a GU Y61 owner) said he had the same problem. Even had an extension made to lube the cable and also the pivot (my terminology) on the fork arm. The clutch is very light now compared to before and no more noise .. has been good for around 5000 km's so far
    Thanks timbo, the noise went away by itself, which suggested to me it was a dust issue.I did give it a spray with ptfe more recently. Seems fine.

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
    A Nomadic Life (Blog)

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