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Thread: Another air con question.

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    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    Another air con question.

    Several months ago on our way north we lost aircon in our car. Turned out one of the aluminium pipes had fractured, probably corrugationsnto blame. We sourced a new pipe & picked it up when we reached Broome, but as yet it hasn't been fitted.

    A couple of questions.
    1. Will leaving the air con system essentally unsealed ( fracrured pipe still in place) have caused any harm to the integrity of the system
    &
    2. The aluminium pipe comes with an aluminium nut on top end & o ring seals at both ends. If I were to fit it myself (far better chance of getting a re-gas whilst I wait than if I need to get them to fit the pipe) should I use o ring grease (silicone grease) on the o rings or fit them dry? And is there a torque setting or can I just tighten them by hand with an open ended spanner?

    Pipe is on passenger side near the top of the radiator.

    Bottom fitting of pipe
    Bottom 'foot' of pipe.JPG

    Top of pipe - as currently fitted pipe is bent more than the new one - probably the reason it split
    Top of pipe (with bracket).JPG

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
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    The master farter
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    I would tape up the crack so no dust gets its way in. As for doing the fittings up. I used a tiny bit of engine oil on the seals and just tightened them up until I felt they were tight enough.

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    Cuppa (4th February 2019)

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    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudski View Post
    I would tape up the crack so no dust gets its way in.
    Ta ..... better late than never I guess!

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
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    Hardcore jack's Avatar
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    Hi Cuppa,

    Just checked with Brad and he said they used compressor oil on the O ring, but silicone grease should be OK.
    He said you’ll save bugger all by doing it yourself. He worked for Field Airconditioning and Auto Electrical in Broome.
    Go and see Matt Field there and tell him Brad sent you, he says Matt is the fairest and most genuine bloke he’s worked with.
    Cheers
    Jack

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    Patrol Freak garett's Avatar
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    x2 on the a/c compressor oil. I wouldn't risk the engine oil, the o rings should be a different composition to the black ones for oils.
    tape it up to keep everything out,
    if its worth doin its worth over doin

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    I think it would be wise to also put a new drier on it at the same time. The desiccant will be saturated now and it won't do the job its designed for. They are not dear from memory, about $100

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    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeeBee View Post
    I think it would be wise to also put a new drier on it at the same time. The desiccant will be saturated now and it won't do the job its designed for. They are not dear from memory, about $100
    Any idea whereabouts the drier would be on my car? I see Patrolapart have them for $50.Will have to have a look tomorrow in daylight.

    How do they work? Is it just a cannister filled with a moisture absorber - if so do they need replacing from time to time anyway? Never had anything to do with air con systems before.
    Last edited by Cuppa; 5th February 2019 at 10:47 PM.

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
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    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    Here we go ........... in answer to my own question, what would we do without Mr Google?

    Replace any time the system is opened to atmosphere.

    https://macsworldwide.wordpress.com/...ars-ac-system/
    Last edited by Cuppa; 5th February 2019 at 10:58 PM.

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cuppa View Post
    Any idea whereabouts the drier would be on my car? I see Patrolapart have them for $50.Will have to have a look tomorrow in daylight.

    How do they work? Is it just a cannister filled with a moisture absorber - if so do they need replacing from time to time anyway? Never had anything to do with air con systems before.
    Its going to either between the outer plastic grill and the outside face of the nose metal work or on the engine bay side of the metalwork. they are about 50mm dia and 150 long, usually black in colour and might have a smallish sightglass in the top so bubbles can be detected.

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    Found it. Drivers side of the radiator. All the replacements I've seen have mounting for the pipes & a single bolt/bung. Original has the same plus an electrical connection which I believe to be a pressure sensor, to prevent the air con running if it loses gas. Have ordered from Patrolapart who assure me the bung can be removed & the pressure sensor screwed in it's place. Suspect perhaps the original receiver dryer had two options for different sized sensors.

    500x500-thumbnail-1531892580.RD6117-1.jpg

    IMG_0742 copy.jpg
    Last edited by Cuppa; 6th February 2019 at 07:40 PM.

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
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