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Thread: RB30 deleted LPG. No fuel in carby window.

  1. #11
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    Yes that was my assumption as well. I am by no means a mechanic/auto elec but I am sure it is what you say. The thing I want to know is, how do I bypass the old LPG wiring. The way it's wired in doesn't just mean I can delete all the LPG stuff and turn the key. There is what looks to be an immobilizer which is where the power source for the LPG wiring comes from. This is where it gets complicated, there are wires branching off left right and centre from it under the dash....It might be a case of making sure the immobilizer is unarmed via the hand buzzer controller..... next time I can get out to the car that is. It just proceeded to pour down with gale force winds for 15 minutes just then. I am drenched from trying to hold down the gazebo I have covering my car.... 🤣

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  3. #12
    Patrol Guru 0-TJ-0's Avatar
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    Ha! Sounds like a nice day for it..

    I'd expect the pump to have it's own relay or fuse? If it does and you can find it I would bypass everything and run a new wire to that for +12v when the ignition is on. Either that or just run new relay/fuse/wires straight to the pump and be done with it.

    Old wiring is the devils work.

    Then once you have fuel back up under the bonnet you can start looking at deleting the other lpg bits and you'll be able to check if they effect the petrol side of things as you go.
    Last edited by 0-TJ-0; 3rd February 2019 at 02:21 PM.

  4. #13
    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    The fuel control relay is situated in the D/S kick panel. It is my understanding that it should run the pump for a few seconds until the oil pressure switch closes and allows the pump to run continuously.

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    The whole setup is strange to me. Not that I really know much about that stuff.
    But, I would have thought you'd have 1 main bigger fuel line straight from the pump/filter into the carby and have one return to dump over supply back to the tank. Why is there a need for those 2 solenoid things and the 2 into 1 cylinder then back out to ANOTHER solenoid before it goes back to the tank?
    Will have a good think about how I am going to tackle this tomorrow. I don't want to delete the immobilizer because it runs my central locking and the wiring under the dash associated with it is mind boggling.

  6. #15
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    Ok lads, just removed ALL of the LPG associated wiring. Ducked down to my local mechanic and he said just Hotwire the fuel pump with the ignition.
    He also said piss those 2 solenoid things off and just run straight from the 2 into 1 (fuel in and return) into the carby, which I have done.
    I checked the fuse panel in the drivers side kick panel, with ignition on I have power to the fuel pump circuit.

    What is the best way to Hotwire the fuel pump to see if it actually works and pumps fuel up to the carby?
    Last edited by sfrrob; 4th February 2019 at 02:05 PM. Reason: Phone wrote a bad bad bad word ��

  7. #16
    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    If it was me, I would temporarily wire an ignition wire to the Green/red wire at the fuel pump control in the d/s side kick panel. Be aware doing that cuts out the low oil pressure safety feature. If there is a crash, and the motor stalls the fuel pump will still keep pumping fuel until the ignition switch is turned off.

    Have you downloaded the Haynes manual yet?

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    Did some poking and prodding with my multimeter. I have power to the pump. I think my pump is dead. Will post a few pics shortly.

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    I have a physical copy of the manual but it is at my folks joint a couple hours away. They attempted to photograph some pages for me but as expected they couldn't quite focus the camera well enough for me to make any sense of it.
    I thought we could download manuals here, I have tried to click the link for the manual I bought but nothing happens.

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    IMG_20190204_155423.jpg
    0 when ignition off 12.4 when ignition on.
    I'm tipping that's the main power supply to the pump.

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