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29th January 2019, 08:49 PM
#1
2013 ZD30 CRD temperature rising when towing in heat
The other day when towing camper trailer 1200kg in 40 degree heat temperature was rising quite quickly to 110 degrees (on scangauge) on long hills. It was very hot outside and wasn't even cooling quickly on the downhill.
Car has only 60k on the clock. 3 inch exhaust. egr block. dawes and needle valve. Boost max 16 PSI.
When not towing temp will sit on 86 to 92 depending on outside temp and load.
Is this normal? The factory gauge got a little over halfway. Is it possible the scangauge was giving an incorrect reading in the heat?
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29th January 2019 08:49 PM
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29th January 2019, 10:03 PM
#2
I am he, fear me
Pretty much exactly what mine used to do... Trailer was maybe a tad heavier at up to 1500 Kg... but similar air temps and terrain in WA would get me almost exactly the same temps on the Scangauge and Dash Indicator.
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
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29th January 2019, 11:09 PM
#3
Patrol Freak
With mine it depends a lot on how I drive when I'm towing - especially when the weather is hot. Going up hill my EGTs increase rapidly, and if I don't drop a gear to lower the EGTs, eventually my water temp also increases.
Look at your EGTs - drop a gear - keep the revs up - and see how that goes.
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29th January 2019, 11:16 PM
#4
Patrol Freak
IMO working an engine (CRD), solid hauling would be interesting what EGTs you are experiencing when hitting ECT 100-110 DegC?
I consider if you doing high EGT hauling at 80% plus load your engine is going to work hard and get hot (both ECT/EGT). I run higher boost(26psi), but earlier on when I could first monitor ECT/EGT/% load, with ECU remap running max boost 21psi with a 1000 - 1200kg tow (total 4.5T), never hit 100 deg C, guess I start to change down on steep climbs when my EGT start to rise above 600-650 DegC. Measurements using both EDS Scan gauge, UltraGauge and VDO EGT/Boost gauges.
2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job
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stinno (30th January 2019)
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30th January 2019, 07:42 AM
#5
I always keep an eye on exhaust gas temperatures and change gears down and keep revs up. Exhaust gas temp I could keep right down to 400 or 500 degrees easily but the engine temp was hot even when exhaust was not. I would hate to tow something heavy I just don't think it would have coped.
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30th January 2019, 09:31 AM
#6
Patrol Freak
Originally Posted by
stinno
I always keep an eye on exhaust gas temperatures and change gears down and keep revs up. Exhaust gas temp I could keep right down to 400 or 500 degrees easily but the engine temp was hot even when exhaust was not. I would hate to tow something heavy I just don't think it would have coped.
In that case it could be a coolant system problem / blockage or a fan clutch.
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stinno (30th January 2019)
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30th January 2019, 12:54 PM
#7
I'd check the radiator for blockages and get a pressure check to confirm. Also confirm that the clutch fan operates. It also would be worth replacing the coolant, if it's not been done for a while. My 2014 never overheats when towing anything, including other Patrols, my camper trailer, or 5mtr boat.
2014 Titanium Y61 with all the fruit ................
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30th January 2019, 03:25 PM
#8
I was thinking of flushing radiator, replacing thermostat with high flow and new coolant.
Fan seems to be okay. Patrol only has 60k on the clock. Is there an easy way to be sure the clutch fan is operating correctly?
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30th January 2019, 04:38 PM
#9
I am he, fear me
Personally I don't consider yours to be overheating or at least only minor but it is hard to compare circumstances.
It is my experience that in the modern metals technology Rad Flushes do bugger all.
If you do suspect the Rad internals (which I wouldn't at this age and K's) getting the Rad removed, tanks off and the core professionally cleaned is the way to go
If your gut feel is something isn't right I would be looking at cleaning the bottom 1/4 of the Rad fins which is quite difficult to access in the truck so pull the sucker out, which will also tick the new coolant box.
If you want to change the thermo then this is also the time to do that.
Fan blades inspect for cracks where the blade meets the hub.
I doubt the viscous clutch is failing but best way to rule it out is replace or drain/refill (see threads on here).
Most last well into the 100 to 150K range or more
IMHO probably the best "cooling" fix might well be to raise the Boost Pressure... 16 on a Dawes rig sounds low to me
Last edited by the evil twin; 30th January 2019 at 04:43 PM.
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
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stinno (30th January 2019)
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30th January 2019, 04:48 PM
#10
Originally Posted by
the evil twin
IMHO probably the best "cooling" fix might well be to raise the Boost Pressure... 16 on a Dawes rig sounds low to me
Yeah raise the boost as high as it will go before hitting limp mode. These motors will happily do 25psi. The turbo wont like going any further than that though.
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