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Hi everyone. After looking around at all options for a proper overlanding 4x4 i went for a 2017 Y61 3 liter diesel and started kitting it out. I put fox suspension in and BF Goodriches, rooftop tent drawer system the lot. The added weight made the vehicle sluggish and so i did the pipe and a unichip, which gave me power surging Under load. I had a madman fitred and my EGT's run up to 750 degrees under serious strain on an uphill. I don't think that the tuning guys have enough experience with this motor.
I would appreciate any help with this as well as advice on the best intercooler and possibly bigger turbo as well.
Hi everyone. After looking around at all options for a proper overlanding 4x4 i went for a 2017 Y61 3 liter diesel and started kitting it out. I put fox suspension in and BF Goodriches, rooftop tent drawer system the lot. The added weight made the vehicle sluggish and so i did the pipe and a unichip, which gave me power surging Under load. I had a madman fitred and my EGT's run up to 750 degrees under serious strain on an uphill. I don't think that the tuning guys have enough experience with this motor.
I would appreciate any help with this as well as advice on the best intercooler and possibly bigger turbo as well.
Hey mate. Apart from unichip and larger exhaust, is there a needle and dawes valve fitted ?
You could be overboosting and sending it into limp mode.
When I had my CRD, I also had a unichip fitted and tuned on the car, but this still gave me limp mode issues after several criteria have been met, for example boost sitting at certain spot for a certain time and throttle hasnt backed off for X amount of seconds or minutes etc.
But I still retained the valves for better control and the car was awesome to drive after that as I had the extra power and proper manual boost control.
These CRD's have a horrible factory boost control IMO. It's basically a yoyo. And sometime it dips under load, sending the EGT's sky high.
Needle and dawes valve will tame it and make it a nice smooth linear boost curve as well as limit the boost to your liking, preventing the limp modes. Fitting these transformed the way car drove.
Hi everyone. After looking around at all options for a proper overlanding 4x4 i went for a 2017 Y61 3 liter diesel and started kitting it out. I put fox suspension in and BF Goodriches, rooftop tent drawer system the lot. The added weight made the vehicle sluggish and so i did the pipe and a unichip, which gave me power surging Under load. I had a madman fitred and my EGT's run up to 750 degrees under serious strain on an uphill. I don't think that the tuning guys have enough experience with this motor.
I would appreciate any help with this as well as advice on the best intercooler and possibly bigger turbo as well.
Have 08 CRD - ECU remap(ECPT Tuggerah, NSW), NADS, manual boost control (tillix/needle), Jonny Tig (tube & fin cooler), h/f turbo, 3" exhaust, improved induction(important).
Had no experience with Unichip, very happy with ECU remap (postal $750) with full manual boost control. Runs well.
As Hodge mention take control of your max boost and spool.
Regarding other mods, U can spend lots of $$$ working your way thru, bigger coolers/better better induction. Decide where you want to end up and what dollars you can put into it.
I have a Garrett M24 housing-Procharge stage 3 high flow turbo(max boost 26psi), Aust company(Sunbury, Vic), $1600 to rework yours - is what I have. They supply new $2400.
Personally, I would hold off on new turbo at the moment. I have done a lot of trial and error adjustment with my actuator rod length as I initially found it a bit laggy in 4@5 gear low down but now pretty happy.
Need to install my 4" airbox and snorkel - 2nd upgrade see more $$$.
Agree, the surge is mostly caused by tune. Look with stock cooler / safari snorkel, I would have pushed 750C solid hauling/working hard (boost 18-22psi). From stock, I dropped EGTs a good 100C-150C with improved induction 3" to turbo (pipework/airbox) $1000-1400 (4" should be better), and large Jonny Tig (fin & tube) cooler $2200. Look other option available, depends what you are after. Cross Country Ultimate $2400 is also a very good cooler along similar design lines. The CC "upgrade" cooler $1600 would be a good one to think about-just depends. There other cheaper good option.
Need to know more to advise better.
Tell us a bit more: do U have boost gauge and scan tool?
Do U know what is the max boost?
What induction/cooler do you have?
NADS?
Roughly where are you located?
Last edited by Bidja; 7th January 2019 at 12:24 PM.
Legend thanks so much, the max boost from the stock turbo tops out at 1,1 bar and the surging happens betweens say 0,7 and 0,9. It sure that optimum power isnt being reached right now, any recommendations where to order the Dawes valve?
Tell us a bit more: do U have boost gauge and scan tool? Yes I have a madman fitted
Do U know what is the max boost? Yes 1,1 bar
What induction/cooler do you have? stock
NADS? Not sure what that is
Roughly where are you located? In South Africa
Darryl, had a look at the Madman monitoring tool (OBD11 compliant). Does it have the ability to erase fault codes?
It appears to only monitor performance parameters with alarms (eg: boost, ECT, EGTs, oil pressure etc).
Also noted on another forum here in Aust, that people were having issues re: accurracy of reading pressure (boost) and the resorted to mechanical gauges for boost readings when setting for max boost.
Unfortunately I have had problems with my unit. The EGT works great, however the boost pressure does not. I purchased the vdo sender with the EMS unit and CANNOT get it to give accurate boost readings no matter how hard I try. To compound the issue, the EMS software incorrectly converts BAR to PSI at 1 BAR to 10 PSI (it should be 14.5 PSI) so you cannot switch between display in PSI or BAR and receive an accurate reading.
Ultragauge EMPlus is a good option.
The suitability of the tool is your choice and is to based on your personnel experience.
You say max boost is 1.1 bar (16psi), well that is an OK conservative level for stock engine. But you may be able to raise that with Dawes as long as you do not get limp. You must have the ability to erase faults eg: limp due to over boosting. Note: higher boost level will help reduce EGTs but between 16-18 psi not that much.
With regards to purchase of a Dawes/needle valve you could contact Darren Dawes in the USA. The Dawes you want is the 3 Bar Racing (black body). https://dawes-devices.com/.
Coolers we can speak more but you need a TIG welded inter cooler larger the better but as I said the induction needs to breath easy. If still having surge issues after installing manual boost control, maybe consider getting your ECU remapped and do away with Unichip. You would set up max boost/spool with the dawes/needle yourself (easy). If ECU remap is not a local option there, then maybe able to help out over here. You would have to decide and look at costs. Have a look at this link: https://ecpt.com.au/results/nissan/p...ap-comparison/
NADS consists of a series of engine modification to assist in the providing for greater reliability/life of your engine. One thing you should consider is a catch can (eg: ProVent200), it is basically a container with a strainer in it, to separate oil from an oil mist vapour that comes from the crank case (positive crank case ventilation system)and this oil residue is contained in the catch can that you drain off at service intervals. It helps in preventing this unwanted contaminated oil residue from feeding back into the engine via your induction system (pre turbo).
Last edited by Bidja; 7th January 2019 at 08:53 PM.
Ok cool, I have just ordered the Jonny Tig intercooler kit then it will go back to the tuners for fitment and the Dawes valve. I dont think I can erase the fault codes with the madman, but its already money spent so ill leave it for now....
Once this is set up, can you think of anything else that I can do besides a bigger turbo. Thanks again I really appreciate it. Ive attached a pic of my ride so far.FB_IMG_1538411636887.jpg
Jonny Tig cooler are a tube & fin construction (good choice). The core is 606 x 300 x 76mm. They are doing discounts at the moment.
These coolers being near same as CC Ultimate can resonate (produce a loud whistle /jet like sound under load at higher boost levels). Caused by the air rushing thru the core tubes and air turbulence occurs at the tube exit points at side plate. With stock turbo on CRD maybe no issue, but you certainly do with CRD fitted h/f turbo and for the TD42. I have done a fix on mine which I can share later if you have the problem. Jon from Jonny Tig was keen on the method of fix, but not sure if he has incorporated it yet. You could ask him and mention me (John) from New South Wales who visited and he will let you know what the go is.
You need to be able to clear trouble codes, could be some of your current problem. The Youtube video on Madman, they did not mention clearing trouble codes. Have a look at Ultragauge, can buy direct from USA manufacturer:
Fit a catch can.
Upgrade your induction system, especially from airbox to turbo. You are lucky, with the JT cooler you do away with the restrictive pipework from turbo outlet to cooler hot tank(inlet side of cooler) and use only the existing 2.5" x 45 degree elbow to connect between turbo to cooler.
To save maney we could talk you thru installing the Dawes and needle valve. Good to know for yourself and to set boost and spool. Just a thought.
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Originally Posted by Darrylbandit
