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Thread: Auxiliary battery & split charge system

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    Auxiliary battery & split charge system

    Could anyone help with advice on an auxiliary battery setup in my GQ Patrol please?

    It's a 1996 4.2 with twin batteries in the engine bay. I'm assuming both are required for starting?

    I'd like to put an auxiliary battery in the back for running accessories, fridge etc from. Any advice on whether this has been done before gratefully received.

    Thanks,

    Graham.

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    Is yours a 24V system? That would be the only reason you would have 2 batteries for starting I believe. I have batteries mounted in the rear cargo ara behind the second row seats, and have also had batteries mounted on the raised wheel arch on both sides.Easy to do, just a bit of mucking around.

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    Quote Originally Posted by PeeBee View Post
    Is yours a 24V system? That would be the only reason you would have 2 batteries for starting I believe. I have batteries mounted in the rear cargo ara behind the second row seats, and have also had batteries mounted on the raised wheel arch on both sides.Easy to do, just a bit of mucking around.
    Some diesels in Europe came out with 2 x 12v batteries in parallel for cold starting purposes.

    2 that I know off are the navaras. I had a 2010 D22 with such setup off the showroom floor.

    I imagine and assume since he is from UK his may be the same ??

    If such is the case , it's just a matter of splitting them 2 up and making one a aux with a charging system of choice . And making the aux a deep cycle.

    Sent from my SM-N920I using Tapatalk
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    Thanks Hodge, something new I learnt today. Sounds like this is this similar to the twin battery setup on the Landcruiser 200 series?

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    I went down the path of 4 off slim deep cycles mounted 2 per side over the rear wheel well. They were 100a/hr each. They ultimately all failed from the same condition, which was cell collapse. The batteries I chose were more suited to stationary standby/float condition UPS installations and I believe did not cope with the vibration and thumping around. The cases all developed bulging and failure mode was very quick and all dead within 3 months of each other. The style is shown below, but it was not this brand. The brand shown actually appears to have a more robust construction as its rated for 4WD/camping and has a 5 yr warranty.


    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/KICKASS-...8AAOSw-YZa4SKj

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    Quote Originally Posted by PeeBee View Post
    I went down the path of 4 off slim deep cycles mounted 2 per side over the rear wheel well. They were 100a/hr each. They ultimately all failed from the same condition, which was cell collapse. The batteries I chose were more suited to stationary standby/float condition UPS installations and I believe did not cope with the vibration and thumping around. The cases all developed bulging and failure mode was very quick and all dead within 3 months of each other. The style is shown below, but it was not this brand. The brand shown actually appears to have a more robust construction as its rated for 4WD/camping and has a 5 yr warranty.


    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/KICKASS-...8AAOSw-YZa4SKj
    I don’t know if a company that actually makes a slim front terminal battery for Deepcycle use.
    They are designed to fit into cabinets for UPS and are on standby most of there life. In spec sheets it shows 12-15 year design life but that’s if charged correctly in a controlled environment at 25c.
    Too many cowboys out there re branding batteries and selling to unsuspecting people.
    There are a lot of cheap agm on evil bay that are light. Weight is important
    A light agm has thin plates and would of been designed for UPS. Deep cycle plates are always thicker and usually has less plates per cell


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    Quote Originally Posted by Yeti's Beast View Post
    I don’t know if a company that actually makes a slim front terminal battery for Deepcycle use.
    They are designed to fit into cabinets for UPS and are on standby most of there life. In spec sheets it shows 12-15 year design life but that’s if charged correctly in a controlled environment at 25c.
    Too many cowboys out there re branding batteries and selling to unsuspecting people.
    There are a lot of cheap agm on evil bay that are light. Weight is important
    A light agm has thin plates and would of been designed for UPS. Deep cycle plates are always thicker and usually has less plates per cell


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    Good points Yeti, and I think the batteries I purchased were more suited for UPS roles, however with a vehicle thats a garage queen and only gets out 5 times a year, the static condition seemed the right choice at the time. The Kickass units are marketed for camping and 4WD duty, however they are expensive when compared to the UPS style. I have since removed all these batteries as they all failed, and now am back to a conventional deep cycle with AGM construction. So far they seem fine, and my bank is being configured so I also have a 24V and 36V capability for use with my portable MIG welder.

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    I personally have UPS batteries in my camper. 1 - I got them really really cheap
    2- my camper sits permanently on solar and only runs a few led lights and a water pump.
    I kinda went overboard though with 270 watts of panels and 200 amps of batteries.
    Each time we go camping we always end up under a tree which shades the panels but we never run out of power


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    PeeBee (25th September 2018)

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    Yes, the units I have purchased have a 130a/h rating and 1000cca as well. I have 3 installed, and apart from the welder application, they power the main bulk of accessories plus the rear elec winch. I run 120w of Canon shade tolerant panel and have done so for 20 years. The panels are at the ned of their life warrant but still putting out 95% of nameplate current. I am looking to upgrade to 400w in due course, within the same footprint, which is testament to the advances in panel efficiency no doubt.

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