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Thread: Ash's 2004 Patrol GU III TD42ti

  1. #21
    Expert Cremulator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by threedogs View Post
    Wow thats a lot of work with great results. Id just say any
    hoses in the engine bay that touch or cross each other to
    use a cable tie to stop them rubbing.
    Also there is a small door mod using one of those bonnet style
    struts. Have a search and youll find it doesnt cost much which is good
    A rivnut tool will make that job easier, keep the pics and mods coming,
    dont forget to block the egr .
    Cheers @threedogs!
    I'll be sure to secure any hoses and wires with cable ties. I did do that with the boost hose running up to the back of the intercooler. I do have some extra 10mm corrugated split tubing that I am going to run over the cables coming through the firewall, but I'll put that on once I've run all the cables through.

    I have seen the barn door mod with the hydraulic gas strut, but I haven't made my mind up yet on if I'll do that mod.

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    threedogs (29th October 2019)

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  4. #22
    Expert Cremulator's Avatar
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    Dyno tune

    After getting the EGT and boost gauge install finished I took the car to Diesel-tec in Lilydale to get tuned.
    I had the pleasure of meeting some of the Vic members in person; @MB, @AB and @rusty_nail.
    All top blokes and very hospitable.

    Getting a dunno run was a good way to find out more about the car. Apparently the fuel had been turned up by a previous owner, but the boost hadn't been adjusted.
    So I got the boost increased from the factory 10 PSI to 12.5 PSI and the fuel adjusted accordingly.
    Didn't produce much difference in the numbers, but it should run more economically and cooler when towing.
    Factory TD42Ti with a 3in Manta exhaust from the turbo back.
    Blue is before, black is after.Diesel-Tec_Dyno_Tune_2019_10_07.jpeg
    Last edited by Cremulator; 29th October 2019 at 10:07 PM.

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    0-TJ-0 (31st October 2019), MB (29th October 2019), rusty_nail (7th November 2019)

  6. #23
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    The final stage of the gauge install
    I had already purchased an ambient temperature sensor with the gauges but after seeing @MB monitoring his coolant temperature I thought that would be more informative and beneficial for the car.
    I had an idea about switching between the two temperature sensors and called redarc to check if that would be possible. They confirmed that it should work and the black wire is the signal wire which makes a reference with resistance to ground and that's what changes the temperate reading.
    I fitted the coolant temperature sensor and an ambient temperature sensor and added a switch on the black wire to the gauge. (For some reason the water temp sensor had a green positive and black negative bit the air temp sensor had a black positive and red negative, of those even matter with a temp probe?)
    Here is the ruffing in to test it works.
    The coolant temperate probe goes into the thermostat housing. I bought the Redarc GS-OWT1-4 which is a coolant or oil temperature sensor with a 1/4" NTP thread. I also needed a metric pipe reducer M12 x 1.5 to 1/4" NTP thread. I had to grind down the length of the thread on the reducer so that it screwed into the housing all the way.
    I fixed the air temp sensor next to the headlight on the drivers side.
    And here is the switch mounted next to the gauges. I had already drilled a hole for the programming switch, which I didn't need next to the dual voltage gauge, so I used that to mount the toggle switch.
    Here it is in action
    I also wanted to add an independent dimmer switch for the gauges as they were too bright at night. I had them hooked up to the dash dimmer successfully, but when they gauges were a good brightness at night the dash was pretty much not illuminated.
    Getting the second dimmer to work with the gauges did my head in. I literally spent hours trying to work out how I could get a dimmer to do what I wanted.
    Originally I thought I could add the second dimmer after the first and reduce the voltage to the gauges, but this didn't work.
    Looking at the wiring diagram in the workshop manual (sm7e-2y61g1 el.pdf) I worked out that the illumination wires feed into pin one and two on the dimmer switch. Then the earth from the dimmer grounds the connection and completes the circuit.
    I ended up taking a positive feed from the blue wire going into the factory dash dimmer switch and connecting that to the positive wire on the second dimmer (pink with green stripe in the case of the plug I got with the dimmer) and also to the grey wire on the gauges. Then I connected the brown wire from the gauges to the second wire on the dimmer (pink with black stripe) and the third wire on the dimmer (black) to earth.
    This dimmed the gauges when the parkers/headlights were on, but didn't supply illumination to the gauges when the headlights were off but the ignition on.
    I needed to connect the brown wire from the gauges back to the dash light negative (the pink wire on the factory dash dimmer) but doing this would basically hook the gauges back to the factory dimmer switch like I had working originally.
    I needed to cut the dash light negative when the headlights were turned on to separate the circuit for the second dimmer so I used a "normally connected" relay triggered by the positive wire from the parkers on the indicator stalk.
    This worked perfectly!
    Here it is wired up under the dash.
    Here are the wiring diagrams of each iteration
    So now I have the factory dimmer for the dash lights on the left of the steering wheel
    And a second one on the right next to the rearview controls that just adjusts the brightness of the gauges
    Here it is in action - full brightness all the way to no illumination (but the gauges still operate).
    Last edited by Cremulator; 14th December 2019 at 07:16 PM.

  7. The Following 6 Users Say Thank You to Cremulator For This Useful Post:

    clawrence (31st December 2020), Count Grantleyish (17th December 2019), jay see (14th December 2019), MB (15th December 2019), Mickhead (15th December 2019), Reddave (15th December 2019)

  8. #24
    Legendary jay see's Avatar
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    Nice work.

    Sent from my A1601 using Tapatalk
    12/97 GEE YOU
    4.5lt Gas blower. Lots of mods to come.....all in good time.

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    Cremulator (14th December 2019)

  10. #25
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    Great work there mate. I have the same gauge, the redarc g52 BET. My optional temp is just water tamp from thermo housing. But I like the flick switch idea to switch senders very much.
    2005 TD42TI

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    Cremulator (14th December 2019)

  12. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hodge View Post
    Great work there mate. I have the same gauge, the redarc g52 BET. My optional temp is just water tamp from thermo housing. But I like the flick switch idea to switch senders very much.
    Yeh, it's very simple. You could easily switch water/oil temp or even water/oil/air with a three way switch!

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    Hodge (15th December 2019)

  14. #27
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    Well done with the gauge dimming!

    My car (Dx) has no dimmer switch so I fitted Redarc's GA-ELC 'Enhanced Lighting Controller' to be able to dim my gauges at night to avoid being blinded by their brightness. It worked ok, but the problem is that when I want to run with headlights on during the day the night setting on the gauges is a bit too dim to easily see in daylight, & if I make it brighter it's too bright at night. Although less than perfect I have adapted to flicking the headlights off now & then (when using them during the day) just to check the gauges.

    Would be nice to be able to adjust the gauge lights independently...... but that'll have to be a project for when I'm finally back in Victoria.

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3 Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2 lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, Tyredog TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
    A Nomadic Life (Blog)

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    Cremulator (15th December 2019)

  16. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cuppa View Post
    Well done with the gauge dimming!

    My car (Dx) has no dimmer switch so I fitted Redarc's GA-ELC 'Enhanced Lighting Controller' to be able to dim my gauges at night to avoid being blinded by their brightness. It worked ok, but the problem is that when I want to run with headlights on during the day the night setting on the gauges is a bit too dim to easily see in daylight, & if I make it brighter it's too bright at night. Although less than perfect I have adapted to flicking the headlights off now & then (when using them during the day) just to check the gauges.

    Would be nice to be able to adjust the gauge lights independently...... but that'll have to be a project for when I'm finally back in Victoria.
    Thanks @Cuppa
    It almost drove me crazy trying to work out how to do it and I burnt out the first dimmer I got from the wreckers so had to go back for another one, but worked it out in the end.
    Apart from the relay component its actually simple to wire up.

  17. #29
    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cremulator View Post
    Thanks @Cuppa
    It almost drove me crazy trying to work out how to do it and I burnt out the first dimmer I got from the wreckers so had to go back for another one, but worked it out in the end.
    Apart from the relay component its actually simple to wire up.
    @Cremulator I'll have to invite you up to Ballarat for a weekend when we eventually return home!

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3 Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2 lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, Tyredog TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
    A Nomadic Life (Blog)

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    Cremulator (15th December 2019)

  19. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cuppa View Post
    @Cremulator I'll have to invite you up to Ballarat for a weekend when we eventually return home!
    Haha. Thanks?

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