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Thread: Ash's 2004 Patrol GU III TD42ti

  1. #11
    Expert Cremulator's Avatar
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    Tie down points/Anchoring a fridge without drawers
    Since getting a second-hand 40L fridge I've been working out the best way to fix it in the rear cargo area without having the mounting points that you get with a fridge slide or set of drawers.

    Searching this forum turned up a few good suggestions, in particular, I was inspired by a post by Lowie back in 2013 – Tie down brackets for fridge

    That post informed me that there was a child restraint anchor point in the rear (which had a plastic plug in it in my car) and that you can get anchor points that can be covered to stop them damaging things and also look neat.
    I went to the wreckers on the lookout for some of these anchor points from a Commodore sedan but found something similar in a 2001 Subaru Outback.
    I picked these up for $5 each - anchor points, covers and bolts.
    IMG_20190602_170238.jpgIMG_20190602_170249.jpg
    They are roof mounted points in the Subaru which is why they have plastic covers.
    2-forward-facing-car-seats-tethered-in-2001-Subaru-Outback-to-roof.jpg2004-Subaru-Outback-tethers-gtcarlot.jpg
    Firstly I tried a tie-down strap, then I thought I'd get a clip from a car seat and use that to secure to the anchor point, but I found those type of straps loosened slightly over relatively short trips. So that led me to think that the seat belt material would work best.
    IMG_20190603_122326.jpg
    I got a couple of car seat extension straps/child harness from gumtree for about $5 each. The safe-n-sound protecta ones I got have a quick release buckle with a push button.
    IMG_20181202_180649.jpg
    I tried various methods to fix the straps to the fridge by unscrewing and threading the strap around the handle.
    IMG_20181203_165849.jpgIMG_20181203_165459.jpgIMG_20181203_172418.jpg
    and even with a double J hook to make it easy to remove, but that hook didn't fit the handle well.
    IMG_20181203_165136.jpg
    So I bought a single ratchet strap from Bunnings for $9.95 and used the PVC coated S hooks from that.
    IMG_20190226_215756.jpg
    I cut the hook with a Dremel and treaded the strap into the hook and folded the edges under.
    IMG_20190602_164933.jpgIMG_20190602_164914.jpg
    These are the two straps with hooks.
    IMG_20190602_170130.jpg
    I put the second anchor point on the passenger side in the rear of the cargo area as I am using the anchor point located directly behind the seats for a child seat.
    Note: this needed a different thread as the anchor point bolts don't fit, so I bought some high tensile bolts for these locations near the wheel arch (I put another anchor point on the right side too as a potentially useful tie-down point).
    IMG_20190602_170302.jpg
    It worked out that the far strap I can pull towards me to tighten, and the close strap I can pull down to tighten. So both can have plenty of force applied.
    IMG_20190602_170408.jpgIMG_20190602_170431.jpg
    This gives me the flexibility to remove the fridge when we aren't going away and use a rear cargo mat for everyday use.
    IMG_20190603_134409.jpg
    Last edited by Cremulator; 3rd June 2019 at 01:33 PM.

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    0-TJ-0 (3rd June 2019)

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  4. #12
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    Stereo Upgrade:

    This is what I did to install a new Kenwood DMX8018S double din head unit, JL Audio XD700/5v2 5 channel amplifier, Kicker CSC65 6inch speakers, running speaker cables and a JL Audio CP112W0-4 12" sub woofer.

    This was the aftermarket head unit that came with the car. It wasn't powering on when I took delivery of the car, so I cleaned up the way it was wired in and got it working.
    To plug an aftermarket head unit into the factory plugs you need an adaptor like this one from Aerpro. Make sure you get the APP0121 as the recommended APP0120 doesn't fit the GU1-3.

    There was no audible noise when I did get it operating and I discovered that all four of the factory speakers were blown.
    I replaced them with 4 x Kicker CSC65 6" speakers which were a good low cost option.
    Some longer replacement screws were needed to fit the thicker speaker mount points.

    The head unit had Bluetooth music and phone calls, but I wanted to replace it with a double din unit with more features.

    I decided that I wanted to run an amp to increase sound quality.
    Looking at what a few other members on the forum had done with stereo upgrades, I picked a small 5 channel amp that I could mount under the centre console.

    I ran new speaker cables from each door speaker to the centre console area. 16AWG for the speakers and 12AWG for the sub woofer.

    While the console was apart I fixed up the gear stick surround with some Sikaflex sika 227. There were a bunch of the small plastic fixing points missing, so the gaiter was sagging away from the plastic trim.

    I bought a 3-way junction terminal and cut the 4AWG wire that I had previously run for my dual battery system in the passenger footwell. This T-piece of 4AWG I ran along the passenger door sill and under the passenger seat to power the amp.

    RCA cables from Jaycar. The 3-way video, audio left, audio right were on special and two of them cost about 1/2 the price of buying 3 x stereo RCA cables.
    Just needed to label both ends of one cable to distinguish right from left between stereo and amp.

    I made some aluminium brackets to fix the amp under the centre console area. Two points held it in place firmly.

    And it fits perfectly under the console.

    The head unit came with a bezel that didn't fit over or under the plastic dash surround.

    So I needed to mark it using the dash surround and cut it down using a Dremel and a file.
    It now fits on and the dash surround can be removed with it in place.


    Finally I ran the sub woofer cable along the drivers side door sill and into the rear cargo area and fitted Anderson powerpole connectors so that I can easily disconnect and remove the sub woofer.

    I've set up a tie down strap that clips to the centre seat mount and hooks onto the rear seat mount over the sub box. Easy to remove the tie down with the sub woofer.

    I also fitted steering wheel audio controls, which has made using the stereo while driving far easier and more enjoyable.
    You can view the thread about installing those audio buttons here:
    http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...d.php?p=787795
    Last edited by Cremulator; 7th September 2019 at 11:52 AM.

  5. The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to Cremulator For This Useful Post:

    0-TJ-0 (19th August 2019), mudski (19th August 2019), nikkyboy (19th August 2019), Rossco (19th August 2019)

  6. #13
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    Nice. I have so much that I need to do to mine, but having to remove the roof rack everytime to get it in the garage is a pain. So not much gets done.

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    0-TJ-0 (19th August 2019), Cremulator (19th August 2019)

  8. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudski View Post
    Nice. I have so much that I need to do to mine, but having to remove the roof rack everytime to get it in the garage is a pain. So not much gets done.
    Same boat. Mine just gets done in the driveway when the motivation strikes.
    2003 GU TD42 with a few extra ponies

  9. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to 0-TJ-0 For This Useful Post:

    Cremulator (19th August 2019), mudski (19th August 2019)

  10. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0-TJ-0 View Post
    Same boat. Mine just gets done in the driveway when the motivation strikes.
    Issue is for me too, I have zero motivation to do it outside.

  11. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudski View Post
    Issue is for me too, I have zero motivation to do it outside.
    Yeh this weather we've had in Melbourne recently doesn't help getting motivated to work outside.
    Our garage is open to the elements on one side, but half the time my car is not undercover.

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