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Thread: Mr B

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    Mr B

    2015 zd30 manaul if you block egr off do you have to do anything elseto the turbo or remap .

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    SPAMINATOR growler2058's Avatar
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    Get s scan gauge to clear the fault code when it come up

    IF YA DONT GET STUCK YA AINT TRYIN HARD ENOUGH........OR YA TOOK THE CHICKEN TRACK

    WARNING: TOWBALLS USED WITH SNATCHSTRAPS DO KILL!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by MrB View Post
    2015 zd30 manaul if you block egr off do you have to do anything elseto the turbo or remap .
    Michael, Blocking EGR is good idea (first up), suggest use a solid plate and block at both ends(inlet manifold and at exhaust manifold). Need a scan tool as you may have EGR fault come up. Easy to erase with scan tool. Was only very rare to occur for me with stock ECU but now not at all with remap. Not an issue easy to erase.

    I have an eds (scan tool) OBD11 compliant sitting in the shed cheap if interested (worked OK). I went and bought an UltragaugeEM Plus direct form manufacturer in the USA (149AUD) which real good and can send link if needed or google it. Very good display and great features also displays kW and N-m (highly recommend).

    Reason to block EGR at both ends is that EGR pipe that runs around back of motor will most likely split/crack in time due to vibration.
    Mine did split 120,000km but being blocked both ends did not pose any problem. You can turn EGR off with remap (as mine) but remap is not essential at this stage. If you are prepared to do mods yourself, would recommend doing mods progressively and monitor performance changes along the way.

    Recommend you get boost and EGT gauge. Note the Ultragauge provides boost pressure as determined by the ECU via the MAP sensor (MAP located front of intercooler).

    A remap of your ECU can be a postal and fit yourself, once again not difficult. If you are thinking of going this way which is a good approach. Think now about fitting say a 3" exhaust H/F sys, put a EGT prope in dump pipe and fit EGR plate at exhaust manifold while heat shied and exhaust removed. Saves money and time in the long run.

    With your turbo (stock M24 Garrett) is good as it is for all these mods. For info do not adjust your turbo actuator rod or stop screw unless you really know what you are doing. You do not need to adjust.

    With 3"exhaust your will need to control you max boost with Dawes (3 bar racing) or Tillix valve and some use VNT solenoid to control spool. My preference is to have full manual boost control eg: Dawes or Tillix to set max boost and use a needle valve to control spool rate. Note both Dawes and Tillix are good. Have used both with success but currently run higher boost (25psi maxB) and use Tillix with good result.

    Hope this is not too much info to absorb, don"t hesitate to seek clarification mate.
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

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