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2nd July 2018, 06:59 PM
#11
Smart like tractor
Originally Posted by
mudski
Doing a 4 inch lift, or anything over two inch really needs the lot to be done. As Bene has stated, you need to do the lot. Your best off saving your coin and doing the lot in one shot. You dont need to spend 4 to 5 grand too. You can, but do you need it. I think I spent maybe 2500$ on mine. It aint the best but it works, and well for the Vic high country.
I used Super flex coils, Was told the Patrol will be a boat around corners, its not and the drive it quite nice. Tough Dog 45mm Adjustable shocks, their no Fox shock but again work well for the work I ask of them, Adjustable front and rear panhard rods, drop boxes, adjustable drag link, 10mm longer lower rear control arms, adjustable rear upper arms and extended braided brake line kit. I could have easily spend 5k on that lot. I couldn't justify it at the time, and I'm still pretty happy with my choice.
The shocks are my only gripe, they are massive and I have destroyed the plastic shaft covers twice on the rear shocks as they get caught on the springs. I complained to Tough Dog and it fell on deaf ears, so I had to buy new covers, they sent me new covers via air bag, not protected so they were squashed and already destroyed when I got them. Complained again, fell on deaf ears, again. When money permits, I will bin these, merely because the lack of care from Tough Dog.
The shocks hitting the springs is to an extent, your fault. When it flexxed the wheel thats at full extension has actually moved closer to your front wheels due to control arms moving on their own arc. This drags the shock closer to the spring, eventually coming into contact.
96 GQ coil/Cab
08 G6eT
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2nd July 2018 06:59 PM
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2nd July 2018, 08:17 PM
#12
Originally Posted by
Ben-e-boy
The shocks hitting the springs is to an extent, your fault. When it flexxed the wheel thats at full extension has actually moved closer to your front wheels due to control arms moving on their own arc. This drags the shock closer to the spring, eventually coming into contact.
So how would one correct this? I have longer lower arms.
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2nd July 2018, 08:42 PM
#13
Smart like tractor
Originally Posted by
mudski
So how would one correct this? I have longer lower arms.
Less down travel, a thinner shock or long arms
Edit
Have you trimmed the bump stop pad?
Remember it issue itself is the amount the diff actually moves from it position at ride height (aka rear steer)
Last edited by Ben-e-boy; 2nd July 2018 at 08:50 PM.
96 GQ coil/Cab
08 G6eT
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2nd July 2018, 08:56 PM
#14
Originally Posted by
Ben-e-boy
Less down travel, a thinner shock or long arms
Edit
Have you trimmed the bump stop pad?
Remember it issue itself is the amount the diff actually moves from it position at ride height (aka rear steer)
I have the Yota bump stops in. Another issue I found to in the steel bush in the lower mount of the shock is too long, plug I had to space out the shock on the lower mounting pin as the body of the shock was resting on the diff. So after all this the nut is only just full on the thread of the mounting pin. So I had to cut down the metal sleeve in the bush a few mm so the nut had more to grab onto.
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2nd July 2018, 09:00 PM
#15
Smart like tractor
Originally Posted by
mudski
I have the Yota bump stops in. Another issue I found to in the steel bush in the lower mount of the shock is too long, plug I had to space out the shock on the lower mounting pin as the body of the shock was resting on the diff. So after all this the nut is only just full on the thread of the mounting pin. So I had to cut down the metal sleeve in the bush a few mm so the nut had more to grab onto.
I mean the actual pad that is welded to the diff housing, that needs to be trimmed when you lift anyway.
96 GQ coil/Cab
08 G6eT
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2nd July 2018, 10:09 PM
#16
Originally Posted by
Ben-e-boy
I mean the actual pad that is welded to the diff housing, that needs to be trimmed when you lift anyway.
Ah yeah sorry. Yeah I do remember cutting the rear pads now. Cant remember why I had to, but yes.
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3rd July 2018, 10:44 PM
#17
Expert
Ok I think 3 inch will be better for me and I have been told all I need is camber correction bushes is that true or do I still need a drop box?
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4th July 2018, 12:42 AM
#18
Moderator
Originally Posted by
First Pooy
Ok I think 3 inch will be better for me and I have been told all I need is camber correction bushes is that true or do I still need a drop box?
Its Caster not Camber mate. Caster bushes are rubbish. Drop boxes are way better for caster correction than bushes. You will also need a drag link and brake lines for a 3" lift.
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Rogue Dung Beetle
Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
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4th July 2018, 04:33 AM
#19
Expert
Thanks Mudrunner it was just a slip of the finger I meant to wright caster not camber, but it looks like that with the 3 inch lift I will still need a drop box and I did know that you needed longer brake lines and just found out that I need an adjustable drag link,so you won't need adjustable trailing arms as well?
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4th July 2018, 08:23 AM
#20
Originally Posted by
First Pooy
Ok I think 3 inch will be better for me and I have been told all I need is camber correction bushes is that true or do I still need a drop box?
In my opinion. if your going to go 3 inch you your better of going 4inch as your going to be technically illegal and 1 inch over the max allowed is not a lot at all. plus you will find that you will still need an adjustable drag link, adjustable panhard rods plus the rear upper and lower control arms. If you want to do it properly. Or, just buy a decent two kit. 3 inch just seems a waste of time.
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