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Thread: Locking Diffs - Air or Electric??

  1. #11
    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by the evil twin View Post
    No tricks just 'point it and drive' on the best line you selected.
    Gee I'm glad you said that! I wasn't game to answer that question, thinking perhaps I might not be aware of some technical 'requirement', 'cos I do just what you suggest.

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
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  3. #12
    ......... MB's Avatar
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    Have personally always chosen fast select changing air lockers in my mountain trucks BG mate. (Quirky airline issues can and will probably arise at times though) Reckon from kindly learning on other threads here as well that an e-locker front in our family GU wagon would be the easiest and best next mod if found needed. As others have kindly also mentioned, our Patrol stock rears almost perform like locked up out there on moderate+ family adventures proven to self.


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  4. #13
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  5. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to poindexter For This Useful Post:

    Cuppa (29th May 2018), Touses (29th May 2018)

  6. #14
    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by poindexter View Post
    Interesting video. For a dedicated rock crawler I can understand why he says the e-locker is not perfect, but doubt that the 1/4 to half turn of the wheel in those sort of circumstances are ever likely to be an issue for me, although I suppose if I had seen that video before buying it certainly would have added another element into the decision making process. I reckon I'd have still gone with the e-locker though, just because of the extra work/complexity involved in re-jigging my existing air system. No doubt from that that if an air locker were chosen that the TJM has definite advantage over the ARB.

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
    A Nomadic Life (Blog)

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    I went the Harrop E Locker route in my 2010 ST. Rear only for now due to LSD failing so had to be done anyways. Front E Locker in the future. Installed by a diff shop.
    For me it was because it is hassle free. Just hook up a power source and flick the switch.

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