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Thread: Rear Winches - Lowering Down versus Hauling Dead Vehicles Up

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    Rear Winches - Lowering Down versus Hauling Dead Vehicles Up

    G’day NissanPatrol.com.au,
    Being an electrical nuffy are keen to learn pretty please if lowering a Patrol or any big chunk of great steel down a descent length slippery hill could ruin an off the shelf say 12v rear mounted ute winch.
    Have heard IIRC around the traps that winch motors do not appreciate being spooled out under power for too long?
    Managed to sneak in a quick Google query earlier today and only seemed to come up with winch brakes ‘outwards’ are externally (gearbox) preferred versus inner drum brakes due to overheating/melting new age rope on their drum cores apparently?
    As a secondary usage and more importantly a slow but highly torqued rear winch could hopefully help haul out dead/caput vehicles on super tight 40 point turn impossible tracks?





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    MB, only impact is heat within the motor, if the winch is going forward or backwards, under same load, same heat. The issue with the brake is different as you know no doubt. If the vehicle is being backed down a hill via a winch, under power, the weight of the vehicle may exceed the torque, hence it would start to 'run=away'. Your brake then comes into play to decelerate, however the brake is not proportional to load, ie weight x speed if the vehicle is generating a load greater than the winch drive can handle, hence it might slip or stutter to a stop. Over repeated applications it may well glaze up and fail.This is a negative attribute of the electric winch brake set up, however they are generally configured to pull forward where the vehicle is simply arrested at the stop point or when you release the power button. The inertia build up is greatly reduced compared to a run-away condition, hence the brake works well. This is why I like my hydraulic winch - works all day forward and backwards if required, no fade.

    I don't think you would have a problem in 'real world use' using a winch like this, however if you had to go a couple of hundred metres, you might run into trouble or at best need to rest the brake so it cools back down.
    Manufacturer of the Complete Camp Oven System

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    Vendor Page: http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...ar-That-Works/

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    Depends on the Winch, or more specifically the brake set up.
    Many drum braked eleccy winches (esp low mounts) are not designed to be winched out under power for anything other than unloading/disconnecting IE a couple of metres
    On multiple occasions I've had to replace Dyneema that looks like the last wrap was plastic plates melted around the drum on WARN's.

    Externally braked eleccy and hydraulic etc will all do the job but be very wary of doing that with drum braked jobbies unless they are made to do that job
    Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.

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    Thank you Gents, appreciate the top advice as always!
    Found this ‘Sherpa 4x4’ Mule beast on Google, would be really great to hear your thoughts on them in this rear mount application.
    https://www.sherpa4x4.com.au/collect...inch-australia
    They appear very aware of drum heat issues within the link and pasted below also:
    “Braking Design - Beware of cheap imitations! Many winches on the market use a ‘Brake in drum’ design which causes heat to build up in the winch damaging synthetic rope. ‘Brake in Drum’ winches are not designed for synthetic rope, this will become obvious at the most inconvenient time. Sherpa 4x4 winches are compatible with all types of synthetic rope as the brake is designed into the gearbox. This innovative design results in a trouble and heat free winch and braking combination.”

    Cheers!!


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    I think the internal brakes using friction surfaces are the killers. My electric 12000lb Milemarker winch, which I think is simply a chinese derivative, has a spring coil mechanism and I punished that for a while without detriment to the synthetic rope, always seemed to run cool. By comparison my 8000lb Warn low mount with a friction cone assy would certainly heat up very quickly. This unit obviously focuses on the brake issue, and it looks very robust. Run a tape over the length and room first as it looks really long with the two motors
    Manufacturer of the Complete Camp Oven System

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    Vendor Page: http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...ar-That-Works/

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    Thanks Phil, should fit no problem on the GU as is 748mm wide its spec sheet appears.


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    Just watched the crushing 4wd vid, always heard this story but never seen it happen- sure stuffed it. . . I Like how they state "don't try this at home" lol , bugger as just about to give it a go . . .

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    Quote Originally Posted by MB View Post
    Thanks Phil, should fit no problem on the GU as is 748mm wide its spec sheet appears.


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    Rails on the GQ are maybe 640 from memory - certainly can't fit a warn 12000lb low mount.
    Manufacturer of the Complete Camp Oven System

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    Just measured AB’s GQ work ute rails at 1005mm inside to inside.
    640mm is tiny you whacker :-)!


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    Quote Originally Posted by MB View Post
    Just measured ABs GQ work ute rails at 1005mm inside to inside.
    640mm is tiny you whacker :-)!


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    Yeah, sorry, was thinking about that on the way home and the 640 is between the front rails, and the chassis does flare out just behind the rear seat from memory.
    Manufacturer of the Complete Camp Oven System

    Website:http://davesstuff.net/

    Vendor Page: http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...ar-That-Works/

    Tuturial Video's: http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...ted-on-Youtube

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