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19th March 2018, 02:04 PM
#11
Travelling Podologist
Originally Posted by
mudski
50/50 mix I do on mine.
That's what I run mine at. However when I was having temp gauge problems in Tassie late last year & changed the sender unit, we lost a reasonable amount of coolant & the guy at the radiator place in Burnie topped it back up with water. I asked about this as I wasn't keen to have the coolant over diluted. He tested the coolant with a litmus (or similar) strip & showed me that the coolant was 'strong' enough to do the job. He told me that higher ratios than about 30% didn't give any extra benefit.
That said I'll probably stick with 50% just so if I do end up having to drop some coolant, or get a leak out in Woop Woop I can top it back up with water & have a reasonable chance of still having sufficient coolant strength.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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19th March 2018 02:04 PM
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Circuit advertisement
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23rd March 2018, 12:08 AM
#12
Interesting topic, I have a much earlier GU TD42T and bought it with a very understated over heating issue, I have since gotten a bigger radiator and returned to the GQ fan and hub as the fan pulls a lot more air, some bloke did a comparison with an air flow meter. The interesting thing I have to add is I have an aftermarket gauge with the sender mounted very close to the original and while my factory gauge in hot weather with a trailer going up hills will read 3/4 plus my aftermarket gauge has never gone above 96c, do you know the temp/ gauge comparison for a factory gauge?
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23rd March 2018, 12:52 AM
#13
.........
FWIW, have foolishly overloaded and sometimes emergency necessity loaded stock TD42T (no IC’s) to boil and beyond. IIRC the stock circa 2001ish guages were a poofteenth off boiling before leaving 3/4 on the gauge.
Friggin tough motor they are and kept hauling back water for us off their stock dials throughout bad Vic Saturdays then :-(
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7th April 2018, 08:00 PM
#14
Expert
Update
Changed the radiator cap, pressure tank cap, thermostat and coolant today.
Drove it for about 15mins at 110kph, temps still got up to 102. Let it idle for about five mins and it only dropped to 97*.
I am thinking the radiator is on it’s way out.
What do you guys think?
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7th April 2018, 08:27 PM
#15
I am he, fear me
I would get the Rad professionally serviced (rodded etc).
Sounds to me like there is definitely insufficient 'exchange' of heat happening.
What sort of nick is the water pump in?
Get that checked with the Rad maybe
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
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7th April 2018, 10:34 PM
#16
Expert
Not sure on the condition of the water pump, how would I check it,
What’s it worth to get a rad “rodded”?
Just trying to find prices on a new genuine one and it looks like they are around the $800 mark.
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8th April 2018, 04:24 PM
#17
Originally Posted by
dpetersen
Not sure on the condition of the water pump, how would I check it,
What’s it worth to get a rad “rodded”?
Just trying to find prices on a new genuine one and it looks like they are around the $800 mark.
Radiator cap open and watch coolant move when Thermostat is opened
Rodding is quite cheap. Take the radiator out yourself.
They will open both end tanks and rod clean out the tubes.
Just make sure they seal end tanks properly and pressure test in front of your eyes.
Alot of people think drop and draining coolant is sufficient for a radiator. Rodding is the way to go
I seen anywhere from $60 dollars to $120 dollars
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8th April 2018, 08:33 PM
#18
Expert
Cool sounds like the way to go.
Will have to check if anywhere in Alice Springs does it. I don’t even think we have a radiator place any more.
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9th April 2018, 08:03 PM
#19
Expert
Spoke with the radiator bloke today.
$250-$300 to rod the old one if I pull it out.
$380 for a new adrad radiator. Might as well put a new one in it, just have to confirm the size. Does anyone have the size on them?
It’s a 2006 GU iv 4.2
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9th April 2018, 08:43 PM
#20
Measurements are in this ebay ad.
Shouldnt he know if he sells radiators?
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Radiator...8AAOSwqXZZxbvW
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The Following User Says Thank You to drgtr For This Useful Post:
dpetersen (9th April 2018)