What am I missing here? EGT problem?

[blkrig]

Bit of a long explanation but stick with me here.

*2005 4 series Patrol, ZD30, Auto, Stock turbo @ 14.5psi, NADS (dawse, catch can etc), 3 inch lift, 35's, 3 inch exhaust. RedArc EGT gauge (unsure where the probe is installed at this time)

*Car had two people NOT towing anything

*EGT gauge set to "warn" when temps go 575


Flat road, 110kmh, OD on, EGT sitting at 500-550, 2400rpm, But will go up to 600, Have to keep boost under 3psi cruising otherwise warning goes off, I lose speed sitting at 3psi obviously. So I have to switch OD off to keep speed(inturn revs go up to 3500 ). I have to keep flicking between OD on and OD off to keep speed consistent and EGT temps under the warning light.

Highway with an Incline (for instance, roads coming into Adelaide from Melbourne that I just drove). Start at 110kmh with OD on, EGT sitting at the same as above. The minute I hit the slightest incline leading up the hill, I have to gas it a bit which in turn temps rise. Switch to OD off. High revs as above, Temps go up to just under warning, But I have to back off the speed to be able to keep temps down. I fell back to 80kmh at least 4 times on the way in to Adelaide from Murray Bridge.

Correct me if i'm wrong; With OD on and rev's down I should have better fuel economy right?

How/what can I do to get these temps down? All I want is to have OD on and low rev's for long trips, without the EGT going through the roof and then having to switch to OD off (i do country km's a lot of the time for work). Around town, The cars great and i never come close to the warning light. Its when I do 100-110, I can't keep the speed consistent and the temps down.


Excuse the noob questions, Trying to wrap my head around this one!

[GQtdauto]

I don't have an EGT gauge fitted to either the GU or the GQ but have recently fitted a trans oil temp gauge and a torque converter lock up in the GQ ,without using the torque lock it's amazing to see how high the temps get just under normal operating conditions .
OD on not towing on a flat road all is good at 100-110ks , slow down to 80 to go through a town temps rise up beyond 110c or come up to a hill and drop down a gear same thing .
Now with the torque lock I can lock it in OD on or OD off and rarely get temps above 80-90c ,I haven't used the lock on steep hills though and have been told not to but I'm still experimenting with it .

[Rossco]

Check where the probe is fitted for a start.

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[Bidja]

X2 for where EGT is measured.

IMO, Your cruise boost of 3 psi @ 110 ks is way too low (very laggy and equates to high EGTs). IMO should be up around 10-12 psi (slight load @100kph) for maxB 15-16 psi. You have Dawes, assume you have needle (hopefully), then close needle off to lift cruise boost. EGTs should drop back. If your needle is in cab, you can do a hill climp and gradually close needle to where you feel spool and power responce kicking in, lock and try setting. There are other way to set Dawes and needle, let us know where you are at.

Would look at raising your max boost to say at least 15 psi as well (higher if no limp).

See how this goes.

Have you a scan tool/gauge to monitor any limp faults?

[mudski]

3psi at 110ks is the cause here. Boost pressure is way to low by about 7psi. What’s the max boost pressure set at?


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[blkrig]

When I get home later, I will inspect the Probe; I'm in work attire so its hard to look over a lifted Pooey in nice clothes!

Turns out I only have the Dawse Valve, No Needle Valve. I'm guessing if I get one installed and set right, My problems will dissapear.

Max boost has hit 14.5-15psi. I dont hold it down any longer after that as the warning on the Gauge goes nuts because EGT's get too hot.

I will check the Probe position and check back later

[blkrig]

In the mean time, Can anyone point me in the right direction for a Needle Valve?

[Bidja]

In the mean time, Can anyone point me in the right direction for a Needle Valve?

Send a PM to mudski (on here), he sells them.

You need to get that spool/cruise boost up. Full manual boost control (Dawes/needle) and by pass the solenoid is a good way to go.
Is you EGR blocked?

BTW do you know if the VNT adjustment screw has been played with?

[blkrig]

Alright, So the probe for the EGT is in the dump pipe/front pipe, literally 400mm-500mm AFTER the turbo. Is this the correct spot to read? Or am i not getting the correct readings of EGTs?

I have also notice the previous owner left the DEA 3 inch exhaust section on that has a muffler. I have the straight through peice at home. Would it help to have straight through with EGTs?

I have also noticed the same solenoid that the Dawes valve is connected to has a hose that is sitting there lose; IE its not connected to anything. Not sure where it is suppose to go. I couldn't find any barbs to connect it to. See the below photo. I am holding the Vac line that isn't connect to anything on one end; The other end is the very first input on the solenoid (which is the line above the GREEN filter)
.29102084_10156185503844699_5146541448304263168_n.jpg
29177834_10156185504399699_1010517865293414400_n.jpg

I've googled but can seem to find the answers on this one! Ideas?

[blkrig]

Send a PM to mudski (on here), he sells them.

You need to get that spool/cruise boost up. Full manual boost control (Dawes/needle) and by pass the solenoid is a good way to go.
Is you EGR blocked?

BTW do you know if the VNT adjustment screw has been played with?

TBH I cant find the VNT adjustment screw anywhere. And the EGR is blocked (as per a previous invoice, it was installed with the catch can and dawes valve).