How much advance is too much --- like 20 Degrees?

[PureCaboose]

Silly questions, but i jest checked the timing on my TB42S and found the timing set at 20 degrees.....it is supposed to be 9-11 (lets call it 10).

It has been this way for a few 1000 km, since we purchased it last year. Only picked up a timing light today as I can't find the box of old tuning gear (went diesel for 15 years).

Is it likely to have damaged anything? Yesterday morning it had a hell of knock on start up, and it is gone today....going to check compression and oil pressure with a real gauge tomorrow (or perhaps tonight).

Also, it is only showing 22 degrees dwell, and it should be almost double that, but then again it does have a electronic ignition unit installed - I will check it was done properly though considering the timing debarkle.

Cheers


Greg

[PureCaboose]

Compression test done, less than 1/2 the standard and about 120 kPa below the minimum. At least they are all the same (115 PSI) across the board.

Still need to do a oil pressure test, and a compression test with some oil in the bore to confirm rings.

Should I bother to address the tappet/lifter noise and retest or should I just presume it is an old (230k km) engine and plan on a rebuild regardless?

What are my chances of getting away with just a rebuild kit (std sizes) and not needing a re-bore? We are a little tight on funds at the moment having just build our wombat enclosure.

Cheers

Greg

[Dybo]

Are you on LPG? If so, 20 degrees is not uncommon. 230k isn’t much on these engines either.
I’ve just put rings through an engine that had done 400K - and it didn’t need a bore. I gave it a hone and put standard size rings in - its running beautifully.


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[PureCaboose]

Hey Dybo, is is running standard petrol carby. I can't see any evidence of a LPG being installed so I don't know what the previous owner was thinking.

I did a compression test, all cylinders were 115 with the exception of cylinder 4 which was 110. When it stops raining and I get time I am going to do a test with some oil in the cylinder to see what I get.

There is no service history, it is a straight, clean rust free (mostly) stock as a rock 1989 patrol.

I am hoping to get away with just rings and perhaps the rod bearings as there is a slight knock that can be heard when cold now.

Just need to find the time, and work out if I can do with the block still in the body...

[Dybo]

You might be able to get it done without pulling the engine, but I wouldn’t. Honing while leaving the crank in is asking for trouble (either damaging the crank with the hone and/or leaving debris that stays in the engine and gets caught in the bearings). Pulling it out, on the other hand, will allow you to replace the rear main seal, check the clutch, possibly do the front seal on the gearbox.
They’re a big heavy donk, but do it once the right way and you won’t regret it. I tried ‘cheating’ a few times over the past few years (using second-hand engines, etc), but I didn’t fix my woes until I pulled it down and did it properly.


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[PureCaboose]

Apparently swearing at the engine does wonders, the knock has quietened right down and is really only there when cold...kind of weird really.

Looking for a decent 2nd engine that I can afford, in the mean time no heavy towing and no off-road work.

Looks like my patrol is now nothing more than a mall crawler and grocery getter....:-(

The plan now, is to find a decent engine to swap in as a temporary engine so I can rebuild the existing one properly. This will take a while, hopefully the engine will hold out long enough and now the lift kit is on hold for now.

Sigh