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Thread: GQ Swivel hubs gets very hot

  1. #31
    I am he, fear me the evil twin's Avatar
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    If it does it in 2WD with the hubs disengaged that eliminates everything 'cept wheel bearings and brakes.
    It can't be the CV's, Diff, Grease, Oils, FWHs etc etc

    Maybe 80 degrees isn't that bad, maybe mine get that hot at certain times but I've not noticed.
    Maybe your heavier on the brakes than me so my temps are a bad comparo.
    I am old school, really old school, so I use engine and gears a lot for braking and double clutch when towing.
    So much so that if I'm 'daily driving' around town my brakes get cold and I have to be wary as I'm running cold pads and slotted rotors for when I tow.
    Last edited by the evil twin; 21st December 2017 at 09:24 PM.
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  3. #32
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    I have not had the chance to do the last two items yet...but I too, am old school....gentle on the pedal at all times and if I can coast to a stop with gentle braking or minimal....that's me. That was/is why I am concerned about the hubs getting hot as I do not stomp on the brakes. I will be carrying out the last two tests in the next day or so. Will post the results asap.

    I did read somewhere that running bigger tyres does impact the cooling of the brakes. I am running 285/75 r16's

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    Running bigger tyres needs more braking effort as the lever is effectively longer so, yeah, does affect the pad and rotor temps.
    There's a hell of a lot of people running 285/75r16 tho including me.
    I used to run 315 until about 18 months back but dropped back to 285 as I now do more towing than gnarly 4X work
    On my prev Patrol (ZD30 CRD) I ran 285 exclusively for 5 years
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    I've experienced FWHs getting hot to the point of not being able to touch it when going downhill for quite a distance while constantly using brake, and particularly true when the vehicle is auto.
    Your is not an auto and it gets hot regardless of going downhill with constant brakes or not.
    So, I reckon something's going on there.
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    I thought from the OP posts the hubs are only getting hot with hilly work in both 2X and 4X.

    I am starting to think either the temps he is seeing are normal and there is nothing wrong... or maybe a gunked up or corroded BPV
    Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.

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    dom14 (22nd December 2017)

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    I was thinking about the bpv. if the rear breaks are not working efficiently as they should be because of dodgy bpv then the front brakes will be working pretty hard to stop the patrol. that said, how do i check if the bpv is dodgy or had the gong?

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    Patrol Freak BillsGU's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 94patrol View Post
    I was thinking about the bpv. if the rear breaks are not working efficiently as they should be because of dodgy bpv then the front brakes will be working pretty hard to stop the patrol. that said, how do i check if the bpv is dodgy or had the gong?
    Try bleeding it first. If a lot of black muck comes out of it then it may not have been bled for a while - if ever. If that is the case there is a good chance it is seized up.

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  11. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by 94patrol View Post
    I was thinking about the bpv. if the rear breaks are not working efficiently as they should be because of dodgy bpv then the front brakes will be working pretty hard to stop the patrol. that said, how do i check if the bpv is dodgy or had the gong?
    Quote Originally Posted by the evil twin View Post
    I thought from the OP posts the hubs are only getting hot with hilly work in both 2X and 4X.

    I am starting to think either the temps he is seeing are normal and there is nothing wrong... or maybe a gunked up or corroded BPV
    Are the hubs only getting super hot in hilly work going down the hill as ET indicated above?

    If that's the case, then you don't have a problem.
    I've experienced my share of red hot hubs going down hill with constant braking.
    You can even begin to lose a bit or brake as well 'cos once it get hot enough rotors and pads lose a fair bit
    of friction as well. You can counter balance the situation by using a bit of engine braking in a manual gearbox,
    but obviously not much of a choice with an auto tranny.
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    no, I have noticed it even on normal roads, say when there are lots of stops and starts (particularly this time of year). Mine a a manual td42 y60.

    anyway, I have just bled the bpv. the initial flow was the dirty brown then followed by the colour of my current brake fluid (blue). so, i still need to conduct the last two tests and we shall see. will post results as soon as i have done the tests.

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  14. #40
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    hi all, I did the test in 2wd along a quite industrial park. It does get hot when I stomped on the brakes quite a number of times. Will conduct the test in 2wd (hubs engaged but transfer case not engaged) tomorrow when hubs are cold and then will jack the wheels up and check for brakes binding whilst still hot.

    tested it with hubs locked but transfer case not engaged....still gets hot....as noted by evil twin.....it may be that is the way it is....hubs clocking in at nearly 80 deg C when braking is involved. Thank you everyone for your helpful comments.
    Last edited by 94patrol; 28th December 2017 at 06:30 PM.

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