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10th December 2017, 06:56 PM
#11
Well, Broke an easy out in the bolt I was trying to remove from the cylinder head. Pretty much at my tether with this thing.
Idea's on removing a broken easy out?
Diamond Tip hole saw, carbide drill tip, Dremel?
Might be about time to take it to the shop.
Not the best way to end the weekend
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10th December 2017 06:56 PM
# ADS
Circuit advertisement
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10th December 2017, 09:10 PM
#12
Legendary
Originally Posted by
lsmitti
Thanks Dom14!
Great bits of info!
I hadn't heard of maniseal. This looks like just what I need, and as you say and a bit of exhaust wrap. It's a bit tricky getting the GQ to the shops without any exhaust to have it welded up to the remainder of the exhaust so will probably have to come up with something to bolt up at home.
I can't seem to find any extractors which have the flange welded on the end :S
Maniseal is just a water based ceramic paste. Autobarn, Supercheap, Burson etc stock it.
It is a cheap temporary solution or even a permanent solution, depending on how you use it(whether externally or as a gasket sealant on the flange or manifold to cylinder head gasket. Permatex, etc also have the same thing with a different name.
It's around ten bucks or so.
You can most certainly use it as a permanent solution for the cracked exhaust manifold, but probably won't look beautiful.
No, they don't sell the extractors with flange welded, 'cos flange can be different depending on what size exhaust pipes and the style
of the flange. You just buy the extractors and come up with your own flange depending on the rest of the exhaust.
Flange only cost couple of peanuts. Unless you have the welding apparatus, you obviously have to get an exhaust guy to do the job.
You might get a better deal by leaving the whole thing to an exhaust guy and negotiating with him the price and brand of extractors
you want. It can turn out lot cheaper than you buying the extractors and taking it to an exhaust guy(He will have to charge you the labour). A package deal might turn out to be lot cheaper.
You can most certainly put the cracked manifold back on and patch it with Maniseal as well as the block the EGR hole with a wrap(or combine a wrap & maniseal).
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10th December 2017, 09:21 PM
#13
Legendary
Originally Posted by
lsmitti
Well, Broke an easy out in the bolt I was trying to remove from the cylinder head. Pretty much at my tether with this thing.
Idea's on removing a broken easy out?
Diamond Tip hole saw, carbide drill tip, Dremel?
Might be about time to take it to the shop.
Not the best way to end the weekend
Yeah, same thing happened to me and end up wasting bit of money and time buying diamond tips that didn't work.
Removing broken studs can end up painful and irritating like that.
You can buy a hole drilling bit to cut a hole through the broken stud, then either use another stud extractor or just tap it. Once you have a broken extractor tip or drill bit tap stuck on the broken stud, things can get messy and you need a fair bit parallel thinking to fix it DIY.
If you damage the thread beyond repair with a thread tap, you can either use a matching helicoil or just tap it to the next size.
I ended up tapping one of the holes on the cylinder head with next size, which turned out a jump from 10mm to 12mm, but that's fine.(I'm not a big fan of helicoil 'cos one of the studs that came out was on helicoil, but they do work when done properly).
For the broken studs on the exhaust manifold flange, I carefully drilled out the all of the broken stud by drilling in it. I started with a small drill bit and gradually increased to larger one. I didn't use extractors, 'cos I knew I can end up with world of shit again if it breaks inside. You just have to take time and stick to the middle of the stud at all times. Once enough of the stud meat is removed by drilling
into it, you can tap it with the matching thread tap.
It is an absolute PITA, no argument there, but you learn a fair bit by DIY'ing. If you don't have time & need the troll back on road quickly, then you have no choice but taking it to a mechanic.
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10th December 2017, 09:27 PM
#14
Legendary
Originally Posted by
lsmitti
Well, Broke an easy out in the bolt I was trying to remove from the cylinder head. Pretty much at my tether with this thing.
Idea's on removing a broken easy out?
Diamond Tip hole saw, carbide drill tip, Dremel?
Might be about time to take it to the shop.
Not the best way to end the weekend
This is what I used when the same thing happened to me.
Luckily for me, I had the cylinder head on the bench, which made it tad easier to access it.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6mm-Dia-...4383.l4275.c10
You can buy those diamond tipped hole saw bits from a Tool shop. Just get the size you need to cut through the stud.
If you're careful enough, you can pretty much end up not having to tap the hole to the next size, but use the same size tap
to clean the slightly damaged thread.
I have a kit of the above diamond tip hole saw bits in case it happens again.
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10th December 2017, 09:32 PM
#15
Legendary
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10th December 2017, 10:29 PM
#16
Patrol God
How much of the easyout is protruding from the hole? I have had minor success using a sharp punch to tap a deep broken easy out in the reverse direction and got it to come out, very slowly.
Other than that, there are rescue bits available. I have seen blokes weld a couple of dobs of metal onto broken studs and use that to get a grip with vice grips, but the easyout might just get more brittle and snap again.
https://the-original-rescue-bit.myshopify.com/
Last edited by mudnut; 10th December 2017 at 11:37 PM.
My advice is: not to follow my advice.
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The Following User Says Thank You to mudnut For This Useful Post:
dom14 (11th December 2017)
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10th December 2017, 11:47 PM
#17
Thanks you once again for the reply's all
So here it is in all its glory
20171210_194707.jpg
After this stud i have another to remove..
What about welding a nut onto the stud? I don't have a welder but could probably obtain / shout a carton for a mate to weld a nut on..
From the photo it does look like there may be a slight bit of the extractor sticking out, but thats super zoomed I doubt i'll get anything to grip on :S
May end up taking it to the shop, will need to organise a car trailer / flat bed truck.
Last edited by lsmitti; 10th December 2017 at 11:56 PM.
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The Following User Says Thank You to lsmitti For This Useful Post:
dom14 (12th December 2017)
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11th December 2017, 09:15 AM
#18
Patrol God
Definitely try the welding a nut on it. I should've suggested that as well. Must be old age... A nut also helps retain the weld on the broken stud. Some times the heat transferred to the stud via the weld can help loosen it as well.
The exhaust guy changed out all of the original studs because they have a habit of cracking and breaking off.
Disconnect your battery to stop any stray current from the welder destroying your alternator regulator.
Last edited by mudnut; 11th December 2017 at 02:46 PM.
My advice is: not to follow my advice.
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The Following User Says Thank You to mudnut For This Useful Post:
dom14 (11th December 2017)
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11th December 2017, 04:45 PM
#19
Legendary
Originally Posted by
mudnut
Definitely try the welding a nut on it. I should've suggested that as well. Must be old age... A nut also helps retain the weld on the broken stud. Some times the heat transferred to the stud via the weld can help loosen it as well.
The exhaust guy changed out all of the original studs because they have a habit of cracking and breaking off.
Disconnect your battery to stop any stray current from the welder destroying your alternator regulator.
Good tip.
i removed one of the studs that broke(actually they all broke while trying to undo) from the manifold flange using a piece of metal
I welded onto it, and yes the heat transferred from the welder loosens it, which indicates the advantage we get by heating up the stud
using a propane torch.
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11th December 2017, 04:49 PM
#20
Legendary
Originally Posted by
lsmitti
Thanks you once again for the reply's all
So here it is in all its glory
20171210_194707.jpg
After this stud i have another to remove..
What about welding a nut onto the stud? I don't have a welder but could probably obtain / shout a carton for a mate to weld a nut on..
From the photo it does look like there may be a slight bit of the extractor sticking out, but thats super zoomed I doubt i'll get anything to grip on :S
May end up taking it to the shop, will need to organise a car trailer / flat bed truck.
You can see from the picture why it broke. Same thing happened to me.
You have to super make sure the hole drilled on the stud is in the exact middle of it, or else the ezy out can and will snap
'cos of the unequal distribution of tensile force on it and out of it.
And if you can, get hold of a propane torch(about twenty bucks from Bunnings) and apply a bit of heat.
The diamond tip hole cutter bit I posted above is the way I managed to get the broken ezy out bit out.
I tried @mudnut 's suggestion above(using a punch to weaken/break it), and it ended up removing bits of it by breaking, which
did help in the end.
Like @mudnut suggested above, I would replace all the studs, if it's not too much trouble, but yeah, try not to break anymore if you decide to do so.
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