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Thread: Battery and fridge

  1. #11
    Legendary jay see's Avatar
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    Thanks cuppa..

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    As suggested by Cuppa use a pair of at least 6mm2 copper wire conductors (dedicated for the fridge only). Voltage drop is very important factor to consider and is best to keep the voltage drop below 3%. Can be calculated or measured for a given current flow.

    Have you a separate volt meter across each of your batteries (fridge/Aux and main/cranking battery). If not, it is a good idea to organise it so you can observe what’s going on.

    Also go to a battery shop and get your battery load tested as one of your battery cells maybe defective, A battery can still accept charge with a crook cell but not to its rated full capacity and therefore not provide the Ah rated (quickly go flat). They will also check your alternator.

    I have a 40l engel running of a 105AH deep cycle battery and can run the fridge over for 3 days/two nights camping and generally don’t drive once set up. Any longer I would run a 75 watt PV solar panel. I have a few of these around as I generate my own electricity using a 6.1 kW PV array (tackers) since 1991.
    Last edited by Bidja; 16th November 2017 at 09:00 PM.
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

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    Legendary jay see's Avatar
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    Called into jay car today to get some wire and terminals and the way the guy there was talking seemed like the battery isn't getting enough power.
    So I went home and did some tests.

    This was all done with it plugged into the aux battery via a cig plug which is in the back cargo area

    Battery is a Deep cycle calcium. The colour indicator is saying that it needs to be charged. I will keep an eye on this over the next week.

    I do have gauges connected to the Aux and with a difference of 0.1v

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    Legendary GQtdauto's Avatar
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    You may just have trouble all round mate , looking at that makes me think your alternator is not cranking out enough and your battery is also cactus , if you have a charger handy charge the spare battery up for a few days then retest it without load and retest after 12/24 hours without loading it in between.

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    Legendary GQtdauto's Avatar
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    Although fridge on will suck the power out its how long you wait after turning off to see what recovery you get , I'm assuming you retested it straight away if so wait longer and see what the recovery is .
    I have two gel battery's in mine and if I turn the fridge on when it's warm it also drops alarmingly but recovers to 12.8ish .

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    Legendary jay see's Avatar
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    The alternator should be producing over 14v yeah? If that's the problem should I replace with another 100amp or do I need a bigger one.

    I'm going to try to get in where I got the battery set up installed tomorrow morning. Hopefully they can test it all. If not I'll see if someone like battery world can help.

    Don't want to charge anything outside of the car yet, the whole duel battery system is about a year old.

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    Called into jay car today to get some wire and terminals and the way the guy there was talking seemed like the battery isn't getting enough power.
    Trust you got at least 6mm2 wire/conductors and inline fuses. Engel sockets hook up wire are fused (10 amp fore both +ve & -ve wires).

    As mentioned it is worthwhile to go to battery shop and get your battery load tested and they should also check your alternator output (all loads on & off). It is in their best interest as they want to sell batteries (now or later).

    Battery is a Deep cycle calcium. The colour indicator is saying that it needs to be charged. I will keep an eye on this over the next week.
    This is good. But, IMO and if time allows I would still go and get your battery and alternator check out now (get a performance baseline as reference), then stick it on the charger and see how all holds up. Your call.

    This was all done with it plugged into the aux battery via a cig plug which is in the back cargo area
    When you run your dedicated +ve and -ve wires for the fridge don't use a cigarette / aux socket, get a proper Engel plug and socket (a screw in solid connection). Will avoid a poor electrical connection, the fridge being disconnected resulting vibration or being accidentally pulled out.
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

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    Legendary GQtdauto's Avatar
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    I'm not sure what you're model alternator you have , mine charges at 14.4 + volts , I think some systems are lower voltage or can be cantankerous with the way they see an extra load , a battery specialist should be able to load test the system and I've never had to pay for a test yet .
    So get a load test to make sure alternator and battery is not the problem , I've killed a battery in just under a year by undercharging and killed a crank battery when the alternator was on the way out .

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    Patrol Freak Bidja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jay see View Post
    The alternator should be producing over 14v yeah? If that's the problem should I replace with another 100amp or do I need a bigger one.

    I'm going to try to get in where I got the battery set up installed tomorrow morning. Hopefully they can test it all. If not I'll see if someone like battery world can help.

    Don't want to charge anything outside of the car yet, the whole duel battery system is about a year old.

    Sent from my A1601 using Tapatalk
    I just posted prior to reading this.

    Yes, about 14.4-14.7 there abouts, and adequate current to cater for your demands. It is good that you are going to check out battery world or the like. Hope all goes well.
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

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    jay see (17th November 2017)

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    Legendary GQtdauto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bidja View Post
    Trust you got at least 6mm2 wire/conductors and inline fuses. Engel sockets hook up wire are fused (10 amp fore both +ve & -ve wires).

    As mentioned it is worthwhile to go to battery shop and get your battery load tested and they should also check your alternator output (all loads on & off). It is in their best interest as they want to sell batteries (now or later).



    This is good. But, IMO and if time allows I would still go and get your battery and alternator check out now (get a performance baseline as reference), then stick it on the charger and see how all holds up. Your call.



    When you run your dedicated +ve and -ve wires for the fridge don't use a cigarette / aux socket, get a proper Engel plug and socket (a screw in solid connection). Will avoid a poor electrical connection, the fridge being disconnected resulting vibration or being accidentally pulled out.
    Good advice about the cig plug , I've converted mine to Anderson .

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