Body Filler Help!

[dom14]

Hey Guys,

I'm wondering whether there is a cheaper alternative to body filler!!!
It's not for a vehicle. It's for a steel structure that I'm trying to fill the imperfect areas with a
cheaper filler and paint over it. So, it must be sticking to steel pretty well, but doesn't need to last
forever like auto body filler(bog). I have to use heaps of it, so auto bog can get pretty expensive.

Any suggestions please?

Thanx

Dom

[PeeBee]

More info needed DOM.

Is the surface corroded or simply has a lot of minor changes in height or holes in it?

Is the surface horizontal or inclined/vertical?

How long do you want the surface to last, how flat does it need to be and is in inside or out in the weather?

Does the surface need to take any loads? Does it need to be cosmetic in finished appearance and will it be exposed to any contaminants or chemical attack?

Can the surface be 'boxed on the sides' to allow a self levelling pour coating to be applied? What sort of environment will the surface be applied in - external, subject to ambient temps or in a covered area like a building where you can control temps and humidity?

Approx dimensions for the coated area and approx fill depths would help also.

[dom14]

More info needed DOM.

Is the surface corroded or simply has a lot of minor changes in height or holes in it?

Is the surface horizontal or inclined/vertical?

How long do you want the surface to last, how flat does it need to be and is in inside or out in the weather?

Does the surface need to take any loads? Does it need to be cosmetic in finished appearance and will it be exposed to any contaminants or chemical attack?

Can the surface be 'boxed on the sides' to allow a self levelling pour coating to be applied? What sort of environment will the surface be applied in - external, subject to ambient temps or in a covered area like a building where you can control temps and humidity?

Approx dimensions for the coated area and approx fill depths would help also.

Hi Phil,

Yes, there are corroded parts, but I can do a good job with fair bit of electric wirebrushing to remove the rust.
Yes, there are holes, but not bigger than 5-6mm or so.
Surface is facing all directions, horizontal and vertical, but not much in incline.
If it can last two to three years without peeling off the steel, then it's good enough for me.
Not too fussy about the flatness though I would like to filler to be able sand to smooth it out like typical auto body filler(if possible).
Yes, it can be outside weather at times, but most in the garage.
Surface doesn't need to take any loads.
I'll be spraying paint over it, so yet, some degree of cosmetic good looks might help.
It's not subject to any chemical attacks afaict.
The filler has to be applied in outdoors and I'm hoping for a good sunny day.
I'm not quite sure how to come up with an estimation of an approximate area(s) that need to be coated, but suffice to say it will be a fair bit.
Depth can be upto a 5mm in some areas, I reckon.(different size steel bars fused together).

Now, I might as well tell you what this "structure" I'm talking about.
It is a unusually large and tall cage for a trailer that I built as a storage, but using scrap metal.
But, I may have to in rare occasion or two take it on the road, so I would like to avoid any undue attraction from
highway cops. If they see the imperfections, I fear they pick on it.
It is strong one. Not a weak, rattling one, but I didn't pay lot of attention to the cosmetic finish, and as a result it looks bit rough.
There are quite a few holes in the steel bars I used and there are fusions of different sizes, which I'm hoping to "level" out
using a somewhat cheaper bog.
I will remove the cage, eventually from the trailer.

[dom14]

Actually, there are few other backyard projects as well that I'm trying to improve the looks using a somewhat cheaper body filler than typical auto body filler. They are outdoor stuff, yes.

[PeeBee]

OK, I would wire wheel or blast off what you can of the surface rust. I would not worry about surface finish at all. Use a rust neutraliser to begin with then seal with a primer and top coat using a HAMMERTONE paint finish. This is avail in a range of colours, and by default has a semi 'fish-eye' non flat surface finish - its designed to hide surface imperfections and can be applied with brush, roller of spray gun. By the time you have done 2 coats it will be shiney and look the part.

Trying to backfill will be a waste of time and effort in my mind as you will really need a bead blast finish then immediate primer coat on tops of that, then a high build filler base, plus its likely that the larger holes would need to be metal filled as the paint finish won't cover these. I would doubt you would get a good bond of the paint - its 100% depending on the preparation to get the initial stick, then you could build from there, but it would be worse than a labour of love in my opinion..

[dom14]

Thanx mate.

You obviously know the paint business pretty well.
I was hoping to get away with minimum labour and just enough looks.
I'm beginning to understand the project is lot bigger than I thought.
It's not too hard to put together few pieces of metal with a welder.
It's lot harder to make it look cool.

Can I ask what you meant by "would not worry about surface finish"?
Did you mean I don't have to work my butt off to remove all the rust?
"Rust neutralizer" is a paint? or is it something else?

Thanx

P.S. I'm a totally total newbee when it comes to painting/restoring, so the learning curve will be steep climb.

[dom14]

Is this a filler that is good enough for my applications? It looks el cheapo enough for my humble project(s) now & future.
I wonder whether the whole container has to be used once it's opened or whether I can keep it without going hard and use it over few weeks or even months!!!
I have a vague memory of a body filler going hard after I used a bit of it and shut the lid and left it on the garage shelf for few weeks or few months.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Auto-Car....c100005.m1851

[PeeBee]

Thanx mate.

You obviously know the paint business pretty well.
I was hoping to get away with minimum labour and just enough looks.
I'm beginning to understand the project is lot bigger than I thought.
It's not too hard to put together few pieces of metal with a welder.
It's lot harder to make it look cool.

Can I ask what you meant by "would not worry about surface finish"?
Did you mean I don't have to work my butt off to remove all the rust?
"Rust neutralizer" is a paint? or is it something else?

Thanx

P.S. I'm a totally total newbee when it comes to painting/restoring, so the learning curve will be steep climb.

The rust neutraliser is a chemical that works to bond the reactive metal within the corrosive cycle, and stops it interacting at a molecular level. Its sort of like making the surface non reactive, sealing it so no more rust or degradation can occur. You need to remove as much of the surface flakie that you can, but a good liberal coating or two of the neutraliser will normally arrest the corrosion. then seal it up and top coat. So you want a hard flake free finish basically. The rust neutraliser is sold at Bunnings in 500ml, 1000ml and 4l containers - its expensive, but usually works in a single application. It a free flowing liquid like water, and you will see the surface change colour within seconds/minutes. Wear good quality gloves and eyewear - it hurts.

[GQtdauto]

Hey Dom, a good coat of blue paint (or four) should keep the rozzers at bay well it works for me , I'm not exactly sure what's holding this one together but I get quite a few full loads of wood with it every year .

IMG_8214.JPGIMG_8213.JPGIMG_8215.JPGIMG_8217.JPG

[mudnut]

I cut the floor out and replaced it with treated pine boards, about 20 years ago. The only good component left is the boards!