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29th April 2017, 08:58 PM
#1
Inline fuel filter on a TD42
Hey fellas,
Was considering throwing an inline fuel filter on my 99 TD42, the type with the water bowl at the bottom, maybe something around the 2 micron size.
Speaking to some "specialist" he mentioned that being a non CRD that i should just replace the factory filter for that unit and not worry about putting it inline.
Had a search around and couldnt get much information on this, but does what this guy said hold any weight?
I understand that the CRD engines are a bit more sensitive to water and dirt in the system, but wouldnt an inline filter be just as good on these old kettles? are there any detrimental effects in having a secondary filter?
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29th April 2017 08:58 PM
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29th April 2017, 11:09 PM
#2
Travelling Podologist
Macca & I have both used a CAV type filter inline together with the stock filter on our TD42i GU's. He has had his a lot longer than me. As yet I haven't felt any need to change mine. The CAV type filters run at around $7 each & are small, so carrying a supply whilst touring is easy, plus any agricultural machinery dealer will have spares. I think they are around the 2 micron mark. (Delphi 296). They should extend the life of the more expensive stock filter. There are other alternatives, but most if not all restrict you to using more expensive filters which are less common. As well as fitting the filter, I again copied Macca & fitted an inline one way priming bulb (advertised as suitable for diesel - not all are). This make priming if you need to (& you will when the filter is changed) a piece of cake. 100 times easier/better than the short stroke priming pump on top of the stock filter. Two or three squeezes & jobs done.
Last edited by Cuppa; 29th April 2017 at 11:13 PM.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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30th April 2017, 01:44 AM
#3
Hey Cuppa thanks for the reply mate. A quick look at the filter you mentioned and sure enough i couldnt throw a stone without hitting 4-5 places that sell em.
The kit, from what i can see, seems to come with the housing and glass bowl, did you manufacture your own bracket, if so do you have any pictures of where you mounted it that would make seeing the glass bowl easy?
Also in regards to your primer, i am assuming this goes before the Delphi? Where did you pick it up from?
Cheers
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30th April 2017, 12:14 PM
#4
Travelling Podologist
I used the same mounting as Macca & it works well.......... but it utilises the factory intercooler bracket, so wouldn't be applicable to your vehicle I think.
IMG_8095.jpg
Seeing the glass bowl requires a little bit of inventiveness, but your engine bay is probably a bit less crowded.
Yes primer bulb before the Delphi.
Last edited by Cuppa; 30th April 2017 at 12:20 PM.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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1st May 2017, 09:22 AM
#5
If you go down the CAV setup path I would advise to have a spare bowl on hand. If you break this, you wont be going anywhere. And/ or atleast wrap the filter and bowl in some rubber to protect the bowl. Chances of this happening is probably a million to one but...
I thought of doing the same, but I couldn't see the advantage of having the extra filter in my case. I live in an urban area, fuel is always good, if bought from a reputable place, so no issues of dirty fuel and water contamination.
Each personal scenario is different...
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1st May 2017, 02:08 PM
#6
Travelling Podologist
Yes I have a spare bowl, although they do seem pretty tough. Just seems like a cheap bit of insurance if getting off the beaten track.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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The Following User Says Thank You to Cuppa For This Useful Post:
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1st May 2017, 02:56 PM
#7
Yeah even over tightening them can cause the bowl to crack.
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1st May 2017, 03:06 PM
#8
Travelling Podologist
Worth a mention ............. if it is installed as a second/pre filter, together with the factory unit, a broken glass bowl wouldn’t leave you stranded as it would be a simple matter to bypass the it & just use the factory filter again.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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The Following User Says Thank You to Cuppa For This Useful Post:
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1st May 2017, 04:02 PM
#9
Not everyone mechanically minded though. But even making a simply by-pass tap around the cav for such issues... Now we're getting technical.
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1st May 2017, 06:02 PM
#10
Patrol Freak
This has been on my list since I fitted the TD42 but I hadn't taken the time to check the best place to fit it. I would use it as a 1st filter and would prefer it before my Carter lift pump but that means fitting it underneath at the rear and that makes it harder to check the bowl.
I like that fitting in the engine bay but it wouldn't work with my lift pump.
How often do you replace the element?
John
2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body
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