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28th April 2011, 05:38 PM
#1
Advanced
free wheeling hubs rusted bolts problem
hi all.
i currently have a small problem at the moment and was hoping someone might have a solutions to my dilema.
i bought a gq for it's engine (it's almost cleaned and ready to go into my truck, can't wait to have a diesel !) but i also require the final drives out of it, 4.1 ratios, the rpoblem i have is that the 6 screws that hold the free wheel hub in place are SEVERLY rusted. to the point that i can't get them off. i was wondering if anyone might have a solution to this problem
so far i've soaked them in wd40 for about two weeks, twice sprayed during the week and about 6 times on the weekends. still no movement. hit the crap out of the allen key, with approx. 8" extension bar and hammer. no movement. got the same size ring spanner as the allen key, another spanner on the end with an extension bar on the last spanner, about 16" extension all up, hung off, hit with hammer and brickies mallet, swore at it a lot, just about broke my thumb as the allen key sprung loose and everything went in the air. swore at it more. still no movemnt.
i am wondering if there may be a specialist tool out there that someone has used and could explain to me or would jury rigging an allen key to fit into the rattle gun be too much and strip the bolt head, and please dont mention the angle grinder as yes i've thought about it. but the diff needs to be in one piece for selling. i just need the shafts moved out so i can remove the final drive.
any help or ideas would be much appreciated on how to move rusted bolts, once again apart from the drill and angle grinder.....last resort.
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28th April 2011 05:38 PM
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28th April 2011, 05:45 PM
#2
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The Following User Says Thank You to NissanGQ4.2 For This Useful Post:
69darocket (28th April 2011)
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28th April 2011, 05:50 PM
#3
Banned
You'll need a more heavy duty corrosion penetrator than wd40 mate - I'll have a hunt in the garage for the name of some stuff I used to get the nuts off the swaybar mounts - they wouldn't move even with heat, buy let this stuff soak in over a couple of applications and they finally came loose!! Good luck with it and no doubt others may know the name of the gear in the meantime (small bottle - red liquid).
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The Following User Says Thank You to Bigrig For This Useful Post:
69darocket (28th April 2011)
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28th April 2011, 05:54 PM
#4
Banned
The other thing which is a bit of a mechanics "friend" is brake fluid .. don't ask me the chemistry, wouldn't have a clue, buy have read about it on a couple of other forums.
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28th April 2011, 06:09 PM
#5
You can buy hex sockets the right size that will fit on a 1/2" breaker bar, that's what I use on tight ones.
Tony
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The Following User Says Thank You to YNOT For This Useful Post:
69darocket (28th April 2011)
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28th April 2011, 06:20 PM
#6
Rotaredom
Originally Posted by
Bigrig
(small bottle - red liquid).
Isn't that loctite??? He is trying to loosen em Scotty not make it harder 2 get off *LMAO*
Time is never wasted when your wasted all the time
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
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28th April 2011, 06:32 PM
#7
Dribble Master
Originally Posted by
toddrhind
Isn't that loctite??? He is trying to loosen em Scotty not make it harder 2 get off *LMAO*
isn't Loctite a red bottle and blue liquid???? roflmao
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28th April 2011, 06:37 PM
#8
Rotaredom
Originally Posted by
clunk71
isn't Loctite a red bottle and blue liquid???? roflmao
hahahahaha, ur right, me wrong, but in my case it always depends on how much i have consumed when applyin it 2 as what colour is what *L*
Time is never wasted when your wasted all the time
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
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28th April 2011, 06:59 PM
#9
Advanced
and bigrig is the winner. brake fluid and a 1.2m breaker bar works, just, running out of 8mm allen keys though, but it works. THANKS HEAPS. X1 case i think
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28th April 2011, 07:05 PM
#10
Banned
Good stuff mate!! Glad you're sorting it.
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