OUR VIDEOS GALLERY MEMBER SPONSORSHIP VENDOR SPONSORSHIP

User Tag List

Page 12 of 12 FirstFirst ... 2101112
Results 111 to 115 of 115

Thread: PWM or MPPT.

  1. #111
    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Ballarat, Vic
    Posts
    6,133
    Thanks
    1,593
    Thanked 5,905 Times in 2,522 Posts
    Mentioned
    111 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Hi jay see
    Phone charging takes 3/5ths of bugger all. Lights vary considerably depending on type. Of course lots of phones add up to more.

    50l fridge will most likely draw 3.5 to 4 amps, & if being run as a fridge & not opened too often, will run around a 50% duty cycle. 42Ah to 48Ah each 24 hours. Unless you are running a bunch of Halogen lights 50 to 60 Ah's should cover your needs over the 4 days.

    A 200w panel in perfect solar conditions at this time of the year will feed around 50 to 60Ah a dainto your battery, possibly a bit more, so you should be ok, even if the weather is not perfect you should have sufficient capacity to get you through the 4 days until you can recharge the battery at home.

    For longer periods I would advise greater solar capacity & looking to the future it would be a wise move to buy a regulator with sufficient capacity to cover that now, rather than having to buy another reg in the future. If you buy a good quality reg they are generally capable of operating at full capacity & often a little over (cheap ones are the opposite). I would think that 300w of panels would cover you indefinitely year round for what you have said you want to run. 300w would manage with a quality 20 amp reg.

    I suggest that a 200w panel is a pretty cumbersome & heavy thing to lug in & out of the car. My preference would be to use 100w panels.

    My apologies for a delay in replying too. Haven't had any phone connectivity for a few days.
    Last edited by Cuppa; 20th February 2018 at 04:34 PM.

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, 240v, 3 Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2 lift, Lovells GVM upgrade, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697s, Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, Tyredog TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
    A Nomadic Life
    The Big Trip Blog

  2. # ADS
    Circuit advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many

     

  3. #112
    Legendary jay see's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    3,568
    Thanks
    2,765
    Thanked 2,024 Times in 1,248 Posts
    Mentioned
    32 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Cuppa View Post
    Hi jay see
    Phone charging takes 3/5ths of bugger all. Lights vary considerably depending on type. Of course lots of phones add up to more.

    50l fridge will most likely draw 3.5 to 4 amps, & if being run as a fridge & not opened too often, will run around a 50% duty cycle. 42Ah to 48Ah each 24 hours. Unless you are running a bunch of Halogen lights 50 to 60 Ah's should cover your needs over the 4 days.

    A 200w panel in perfect solar conditions at this time of the year will feed around 50 to 60Ah a dainto your battery, possibly a bit more, so you should bee ok, even if the weather is not perfect you should have sufficient capacity to get you through the 4 days until you can recharge the battery at home.

    For longer periods I would advise greater solar capacity & looking to the future it would be a wise move to buy a regulator with sufficient capacity to cover that now, rather than having to buy another reg in the future. If you buy a good quality reg they are generally capable of operating at full capacity & often a little over (cheap ones are the opposite). I would think that 300w of panels would cover you indefinitely year round for what you have said you want to run. 300w would manage with a quality 20 amp reg.

    I suggest that a 200w panel is a pretty cumbersome & heavy thing to lug in & out of the car. My preference would be to use 100w panels.

    My apologies for a delay in replying too. Haven't had any phone connectivity for a few days.
    Thanks Cuppa no need for an apology.

    The folding panels all seem to be the same lengths, the height is what changes and not by that much about 100mm.

    I'm getting a 200w folding panel and will upgrade it as suggested. As for adding more we'll see if we needed.

    There won't be any harm in adding the 20amp reg now?
    12/97 GEE YOU
    4.5lt Gas blower. Lots of mods to come.....all in good time.

  4. #113
    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Ballarat, Vic
    Posts
    6,133
    Thanks
    1,593
    Thanked 5,905 Times in 2,522 Posts
    Mentioned
    111 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Look for a good brand of regulator.
    Morningstar & Victron make good affordable ones .
    Better to buy a good PWM only one than a cheap MPPT.

    https://www.solaronline.com.au/victr...regulator.html

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-Morni...8AAOSwKQ9Z60MG

    https://www.solaronline.com.au/victr...regulator.html

    Bypass/remove the reg supplied on the rear of the panel.
    Change the supplied cable for thicker cable. You can determine what thickness (thickness of copper core in mm2) according to length from this table. http://hobohome.com/news/?p=581
    Do not scrimp on cable size! It makes a big difference.

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, 240v, 3 Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2 lift, Lovells GVM upgrade, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697s, Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, Tyredog TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
    A Nomadic Life
    The Big Trip Blog

  5. #114
    Legendary jay see's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    3,568
    Thanks
    2,765
    Thanked 2,024 Times in 1,248 Posts
    Mentioned
    32 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Cuppa View Post
    Look for a good brand of regulator.
    Morningstar & Victron make good affordable ones .
    Better to buy a good PWM only one than a cheap MPPT.

    https://www.solaronline.com.au/victr...regulator.html

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-Morni...8AAOSwKQ9Z60MG

    https://www.solaronline.com.au/victr...regulator.html

    Bypass/remove the reg supplied on the rear of the panel.
    Change the supplied cable for thicker cable. You can determine what thickness (thickness of copper core in mm2) according to length from this table. http://hobohome.com/news/?p=581
    Do not scrimp on cable size! It makes a big difference.
    Thanks again mate.

    Should be going camping next weekend, but won't have enough time to change things around. Will do it before the Easter trip tho.

    Have taken all on board.

    Does doesn't there need to be a fuse between the battery and the panel right? Just a regular.

    Sent from my A1601 using Tapatalk
    12/97 GEE YOU
    4.5lt Gas blower. Lots of mods to come.....all in good time.

  6. #115
    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Ballarat, Vic
    Posts
    6,133
    Thanks
    1,593
    Thanked 5,905 Times in 2,522 Posts
    Mentioned
    111 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Put a fuse between the battery & the regulator, as close to the battery as possible. It's purpose is to protect the wiring from getting too hot & causing a fire in the event of a short circuit. It's rating needs to be higher than the regulator's output so a 25 amp or 30 amp one will suffice in your case. Best not to use a standard auto blade type fuse, (they can become a fire hazard themselves over time when used in this type of situation). A manual resettable circuit breaker is a good idea as it allows for disconnecting the panels too. Auto reset fuses/circuit breakers are a lousy idea as I found out recently. They can make fault finding far more difficult than it needs to be.

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DC-12V-2...EAAOSwoddaa~1s
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/30-Amp-M...EAAOSwL5BZyiLr

    No fuse required between panels & regulator.
    Last edited by Cuppa; 25th February 2018 at 07:25 PM.

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, 240v, 3 Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2 lift, Lovells GVM upgrade, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697s, Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, Tyredog TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
    A Nomadic Life
    The Big Trip Blog

  7. The Following User Says Thank You to Cuppa For This Useful Post:

    jay see (25th February 2018)

Page 12 of 12 FirstFirst ... 2101112

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •