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I have changed my slave cylinder some time back and it looked shorter than the one I took out? but the shop assured me that they only stock one type of slave cylinder for both Nissan and Ford GQ's.
I have a feeling that the piston / rod that fits into the slave cylinder may be a bit short, because my clutch and gears don't slide in as easily as they used to before I changed the slave cylinder. I was under the Patrol a short time ago and I was able to take the rod / piston out of the slave cylinder with my fingers which suggest that it may be a bit short?
Is it possible to buy the rod / piston bit and are there different lengths for the rod / piston, what length should it be?
did you keep the old one? i've done the slave in mine with no issues.
did you bleed it from the bleed point on the pas side under the bonnet? ( not the slave and no not the master the other one that nissan put in to p you off)
Hello Garett, I only bled it from the slave, I had no idea there was another one? - I think perhaps it's time for me to buy a manual. So there a bleed point on the passenger side under the bonnet? Thanks for this advice I will go and check now and get back to you. Thanks for your help. - Roland.
Garett - Well who would have thought there were two bleed points! Is this the bleed point on the passenger side under the bonnet? and are we expected to let the Dot 3 brake/clutch fluid pour out on the paintwork? I went on line and purchased a new slave cylinder for the clutch, this one comes with the pin / piston insert so it should be the correct length.
Garett - Well who would have thought there were two bleed points! Is this the bleed point on the passenger side under the bonnet? and are we expected to let the Dot 3 brake/clutch fluid pour out on the paintwork? I went on line and purchased a new slave cylinder for the clutch, this one comes with the pin / piston insert so it should be the correct length.
Which bled point to I bleed first the one one under the hood or the one at the slave cylinder? - Thanks for your advice and guidance. - Roland
follow the metal line up towards the fuel filter, should be a bleed nipple, bleed it first then the slave. should be fairly quick if you have started bleeding it.
You should have been able to swap out the new shorter rod for the longer rod from your old slave? Do you still have that?
Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
Check out my Toy --> MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up
Originally Posted by Rogue Dung Beetle
Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever. WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
Thanks Chaps for all the help - I'vw e ordered a New Slave and Pin - (The one I have installed does not appear to be original,) - when I bought the slave cyclinder it surprising did not come with a Pin so I used the same pin I had previously. - live and learn I guess - Thanks again.
I've had this problem with every vehicle I've owned that had a hydraulic clutch.
Because of the design of the fork lever to multiply the push on the pressure plate, the wear on clutch plate, pressure plate, thrust bearing, fork end and fork pivot are multiplied by the same ratio at the slave end.
Minis were the worst offenders, could add up to over 10mm and pop the piston out of the slave. Ended up getting an adjustable pin for them.
Hello. Sorry for reviving a very old thread. But I have a similar question regarding the length of the slave rod. Can the rod be too long? I ask because the lever it sits on is pushed out beyond center and in my opinion, is causing my clutch to slip when the truck’s been heating up. Thanks
Hello. Sorry for reviving a very old thread. But I have a similar question regarding the length of the slave rod. Can the rod be too long? I ask because the lever it sits on is pushed out beyond center and in my opinion, is causing my clutch to slip when the truck’s been heating up. Thanks
gday mate...you can carefully remove the master cylinder from your clutch booster...inside the clutch booster is an adjustable piston end...there is a locking nut in there so be carefull not to damage the piston... Wind it out a couple of turns and do the same with the nut and clip in the foot well on the other side of your firewall...this may get you a bit more reach outa your slave.