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26th March 2017, 06:05 PM
#61
SPAMINATOR
Originally Posted by
Hodge
Sorry for late reply. The spill free funnel kits are available everywhere. Example here...
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Spill-Free-Funnel-Coolant-Fluid-Spout-Kit-/142163606451?hash=item21199c7bb3:g:ttIAAOSwn7JYE9p R
I have followed nissannewbys advice on mine (identical cooling setup as the 3L CRD). After initial top up and bleeding just by idling idling the motor, they eventually rid them selves off air after a drive or two.
I tried using the funnel on mine recently @ the radiator. And it certainly helped with the initial bleed after filling the system up.
The park up the hill trick will only work so far on these due to the header tank design. Header tank is the highest point when car is on level ground. No need for uphill parks.
They are designed to self bleed. Fill up radiator and header tank to max. Fill overflow tank to between min and max and then run the motor till thermo opens. Go for a drive and monitor the coolant level... Top up if necessary. Just make sure the overflow coolant is present for the header tank to suck out of... Mine settled after about 24 hours or so...
I think Ive got a thermostat issue (not closing). It only heats up when under load. Idling it comes back down. Taking it to the mechanic due to the STUPID BASTARD location of the thermostat.
IF YA DONT GET STUCK YA AINT TRYIN HARD ENOUGH........OR YA TOOK THE CHICKEN TRACK
WARNING: TOWBALLS USED WITH SNATCHSTRAPS DO KILL!!
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26th March 2017 06:05 PM
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26th March 2017, 06:26 PM
#62
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
growler2058
I think Ive got a thermostat issue (not closing). It only heats up when under load. Idling it comes back down. Taking it to the mechanic due to the STUPID BASTARD location of the thermostat.
If its stuck open it won't heat up.
I'd say if anything its stuck closed or maybe partly.
So under load you aren't getting flow threw the radiator to cool it..
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26th March 2017, 07:01 PM
#63
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
growler2058
I think Ive got a thermostat issue (not closing). It only heats up when under load. Idling it comes back down. Taking it to the mechanic due to the STUPID BASTARD location of the thermostat.
Yeah good idea. They are in a c*** of a spot. Let someone else deal with it ...
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26th March 2017, 08:23 PM
#64
SPAMINATOR
Originally Posted by
bigguwesty
If its stuck open it won't heat up.
I'd say if anything its stuck closed or maybe partly.
So under load you aren't getting flow threw the radiator to cool it..
Nah mate they heat up. If the thermostat doesn't close the coolant doesnt sit in the radiator long enough to cool down, just keeps flowing and getting hotter. Hence when im sitting at the lights just idling the temp drops back to 87 C
IF YA DONT GET STUCK YA AINT TRYIN HARD ENOUGH........OR YA TOOK THE CHICKEN TRACK
WARNING: TOWBALLS USED WITH SNATCHSTRAPS DO KILL!!
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26th March 2017, 08:35 PM
#65
Administrator
@MB ^^^
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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26th March 2017, 08:41 PM
#66
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I believe everybody's on the same page, maybe just different timeline relative posts?
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27th March 2017, 08:31 PM
#67
If the thermostat is stuck open it will not heat up indeed it will actually warm up a little if stationary but it will cool down rapidly once moving...open thermostat will never cause overheating, stuck closed or partially closed is another matter.
When thermostat is closed coolant is being recirculated around the engine block so it (coolant) warms up quicker hence the radiator hoses are usually cold especially the lower one. Try it! Once it (thermostat) opens the hoses will warm up to almost even temp or so it feels. Thermostat begins to open at 82C unless yours is tropical variety which is 76C.
If cooling system is operating normally temps around 86-89C are to be expected under most conditions (running at Robe in deep sand and ambient temp around 35C will push coolant temps up to mid 90C. )
Regards
Last edited by Rumcajs; 27th March 2017 at 08:35 PM.
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27th March 2017, 09:27 PM
#68
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Agreed, my personal experiences on different past donks have found that stuck open TS's only assisted heavy hauling conditions but found too low temps at stationary/lights as best I remember. When stuck at half or below open I've also had to completely remove TS's before which then does create way too much flow as per the vehicles OEM design. Just a bugger I guess the ZD30 isn't a quick pop out and kitchen pot test at home to view its action. I think others have also mentioned here potential viscous fan coupling issues or even poor water pump flow maybe?
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27th March 2017, 10:05 PM
#69
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Sorry Rumcajs, should have added, 'past donks' (350 chevs in FJ-LC's) had 16" front mounted electric push fans so "stationary" was same as rolling down a steep hill off power if that makes sense mate.
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28th March 2017, 05:43 AM
#70
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