Fail to start.
Hi all, over the last few months my 6.5 chevy diesel has been struggling to start when hot. 1st thing in the morning it fires up straight away or even after standing for around 20 to 30 mins, but if I stop to put fuel or try to start within 15 to 20 min it won't start. like no fuel going through to the injector pump. does any one think it could be starter related, or maybe cut off solenoid.
Thanks in advance.
Colin.
Any chance its vapourising in the fuel line. Heat from the engine when you stop rising and turning the fuel in the line to vapour. Once it cools down its ok again. Try wrapping or insulating your fuel line in the engine bay. We used to get this a lot when we were racing cars. Usually because we had fuel line above or too close to extractors. Wrap, insulate or move used to fix it.Originally Posted by brooks
2005 GU IV ST 3.0. Snorkel. Roof rack. Awning. Spots. Welded I/C. Dual batteries & VSR. UHF. Barn door hinge extension. Roof top spot lights. Rear drawers. 2" lift. NADS. EGT and boost gauges. Trans temp and water temp gauges. Provent 200 catch can. Rear ladder
And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called the human race. Lost in time. And lost in space... and meaning.
Just reread that, probably not in a diesel. Possible I suppose but not likely. I just read the symptoms and jumped in. Sorry.
2005 GU IV ST 3.0. Snorkel. Roof rack. Awning. Spots. Welded I/C. Dual batteries & VSR. UHF. Barn door hinge extension. Roof top spot lights. Rear drawers. 2" lift. NADS. EGT and boost gauges. Trans temp and water temp gauges. Provent 200 catch can. Rear ladder
And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called the human race. Lost in time. And lost in space... and meaning.
brooks (16th February 2017)
The chev should have a lift pump between the fuel tank and injector pump, probably mounted on the inside of the chassis rail. Is this running - you should be able to hear a 'tap tap tap' sound. This might get hot and stop. Is your a turbo or N/A? I have the n/a and the pump is on the drivers side away from the exhaust - unsure what the turbo exhaust route is? The lift pump would also struggle if the tank breather was blocked and it was pulling a vacuum on the tank. I had a problem with a partially blocked fuel line also that killed the motor under power, have you checked the inline filters? There should be one before the lift pump, then you have the main fuel filter. Does it just crank and not fire or try to start and stop straight away?
brooks (16th February 2017)
Mine is N/A, it is fine when running, just cranks & won't fire when hot, as soon as it cools cranks a few times & starts. i might try to change the filters & will check the lift pump.
this has a mechanical lift pump on RH front of block. appears to be working ok.
Ok, I am out on this one. Mine is electrical lift pump on chassis rail, pumps at 14psi.
G'day Brooks, the yanky forum sites for 6.5s seem to talk a lot about their PMD's overheating. They all seem to buy an aftermarket Pump Mounted Driver relocation kit. Just google up words like above and see if their symptoms match what you're experiencing maybe?
Could be the pmd but sounds very much like the ip is worn out. The pmd if your has one is cheap enough to replace and relocation kits are easy to source. If its a brunswick conversion it is unlikely it will have a pmd as they seemed to be scared of electronics.
Either way buy the parts out of the states last time I quoted to get a 6.5 chev pump done over here was in the range of 3500 supply only.
Please expand PMD, do you mean injector pump is mechanical. yes it is a brunswick conv.
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