-
10th February 2017, 03:05 PM
#1
Expert
Engine and drivetrain swap - RD28T to TD42
Mates after two rounds of head problems on my RD28T, I've found a guy with a TD42 donor car (TD42 with ZD30 drivetrain) who is willing to do a complete swap for me - engine, transmission and rear axle and anything else needed. I've read through the forums here and have an idea about what is required to modify the RD chassis to fit the new setup, but I have some questions about the TD42 in general.
The TD42 is a 1995 silver top n/a with about 180000km on it. He himself has put about 40k on the engine. What do I need to look for with the TD? Are there any problems that would show up with that kind of kms on the engine?
I know these are legendary for reliability, I just want to make sure I am doing the right thing before dropping that kind of cash.
-
-
10th February 2017 03:05 PM
# ADS
Circuit advertisement
-
10th February 2017, 03:37 PM
#2
Legendary
Hey mate, guessing the old 2.8 is not so good then.
I'd do a compression test and hook up an oil pressure Guage if possible. Also a cold start should show up the condition pretty well and look under the oil cap for any sludge it should nice & clean. Nice low Ks tho sounds good.
-
The Following User Says Thank You to Rossco For This Useful Post:
SiberianPatrol (10th February 2017)
-
10th February 2017, 03:47 PM
#3
Expert
Thanks, mate. Working to get a compression test done soon. The guy I would get it from ran it for a while in his own Patrol (40k kms) without any problems, but ran into registration problems with the truck and can no longer legally drive his rig - that's why he is offering to pull it from his and put it in mine.
The 2.8 went through a full rebuild about a year ago and ran beautifully after that until now. I'm guessing our extreme temps played a number on the engine, and in a less extreme climate, I think it would be a fine engine to have. Dealing with our extreme weather here, I need the most reliable engine I can have. Breaking down on an ice road in the middle of the taiga isn't really an option
-
The Following User Says Thank You to SiberianPatrol For This Useful Post:
Rossco (11th February 2017)
-
10th February 2017, 04:39 PM
#4
Expert
Another update on the TD - the guy who offered it said it starts with 1/2 a crank in summer and winter at -40C as long as there is fuel and battery power. Have set it up with my mechanic to do a compression test and full diagnostics on Monday. We'll see what the results of that will be and then proceed from there.
-
-
11th February 2017, 01:37 AM
#5
Patrol Freak
the main issues with the TD42 are..............
a barely adequate cooling system, rarely able to keep it cool in really hot conditions
make sure you get the water pump and thermostat checked for operating properly - new belts, and a thorough clean out of the radiator
an N/A (Naturally Aspirated) TD42, dont let the EGT's get over 450* - a Turbo one - never over 550*
PS - what happened to the RD??? what did I miss????
Tidy Whitey - 99 GU TD42Ti - Diesel Gas, (GUIV Turbo & Intercooler 8Lb boost), 33" Micky T's Baja MTZ's, Dual Batt's, Cargo Barrier, rear draws, HID Super Oscars, winch, Grinch & witch attached and more goodies to come
-
-
11th February 2017, 01:40 AM
#6
Patrol Freak
your gear box should be the same, just the bell housing is different
you should get 4.11 or 3.9 gears for the diff - (speedo accurate with 4.11 - but better take off and off road with 3.9's just low top speed)
- or is it the other way around - cannot remember now
Tidy Whitey - 99 GU TD42Ti - Diesel Gas, (GUIV Turbo & Intercooler 8Lb boost), 33" Micky T's Baja MTZ's, Dual Batt's, Cargo Barrier, rear draws, HID Super Oscars, winch, Grinch & witch attached and more goodies to come
-
-
11th February 2017, 01:50 AM
#7
Expert
Would the radiator from my RD be adequate or do I need a different one? Luckily our weather here is more severe cold than severe heat. We will get up to 30C or maybe a bit higher but that will only last for a couple of weeks max.
A 1995 N/A silver top is the engine I would be putting in. My RD developed a head problem back in December after coming back from a trip on the winter ice road. Started getting a knock, vibration and smoke and loss of power. Mechanic said injectors so I replaced them and nothing changed. Seems to be in the head - either a spring, valve or lifter somewhere, and I've also developed a head gasket leak around the #1-3 cylinders. All of this is after I just had a full engine rebuild 1 year ago. Have only put maybe 10k Kms on the rebuild.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
-
11th February 2017, 02:28 AM
#8
Expert
Originally Posted by
Bigcol
your gear box should be the same, just the bell housing is different
you should get 4.11 or 3.9 gears for the diff - (speedo accurate with 4.11 - but better take off and off road with 3.9's just low top speed)
- or is it the other way around - cannot remember now
I will do the full swap with the gearbox and rear diff off the donor car. I'm running 33s so the standard diff from the TD is 4.11 I believe so it should work well. Anything else I'm overlooking?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
-
11th February 2017, 04:01 PM
#9
Expert
Another thing that I just thought of, which isn't a big deal, but something else to consider. I would be going from a turbo engine to a N/A 4.2, meaning I no longer need my boost gauge. I have an EGT gauge paired with it, but I'd need another gauge to throw in beside it. What other gauge would I need with the 4.2 N/A? Oil pressure? Need something to fill the hole
-
-
11th February 2017, 07:56 PM
#10
Expert
Ok, in the process of having the diagnostics run on the 4.2 I am considering swapping in. Here are the numbers:
Compression
1 = 25 bar / 362.59 psi
2 = 27 bar / 391.6 psi
3 = 29 bar / 420.6 psi
4 = 29 bar / 420.6 psi
5 = 23 bar / 333.59 psi
6 = 25 bar / 362.59 psi
According to the manual, the compression should be 29.4 bar / 427 psi with a minimum of 24.5 bar / 356 psi and a difference of 2.9 bar / 43 psi between cylinders. That makes cylinders 1&6 on the low end, but within reason but 5 is lower than the minimum. The guy has never regulated or adjusted the tappets/valves and lifters, so that could adjust the numbers slightly higher on the low cylinders.
It cranks perfectly when hot and supposedly cranks well in the cold, but obviously by the time it got to the shop it was hot, so hard to test that one. Mechanic pulled the dipstick and checked for exhaust back pressure to see if the pistons were excessively worn. It had a little exhaust gas come out, but nothing serious he said - acceptable and average for the age and kms on the engine.
I would like some input from the gurus here with the TD42. Is it worth dropping in this engine with the compression readings that I posted? Or am I asking for more trouble later on down the road in the form of a rebuild if I put this one in? Asking for advice here.
-