Exhaust, Gauges, Dyno, Dawse, Needles & Intercoolers

[threedogs]

Thanks for the help and info guys.

Yes I have a Provent 200 and it's working very well, just bought a 2nd filter for it in fact. Also blocked the EGR.

3-400 for a new IC, that's doable, I thought I was up for 1000-1500 for a new IC which isn't really do able.

Thanks again.

As for passing wires through the firewall there are 2 large rubber gromment on each side
tape any wire to a coat hanger[straightened out] and away you go

As for your boost buy one of these @mudski this is a great price,,,neat even if you run a temporary
boost gauge to set things up. .Mark you may want to buy some at this price
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Pa...4AAOSw5cNYLPmR

[mudski]

As for passing wires through the firewall there are 2 large rubber gromment on each side
tape any wire to a coat hanger[straightened out] and away you go

As for your boost buy one of these @mudski this is a great price,,,neat even if you run a temporary
boost gauge to set things up. .Mark you may want to buy some at this price
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Pa...4AAOSw5cNYLPmR

Yeah nup. No point buying them at that price, then adding my bit of top, plus your freight. I wouldn't sell them.

[10G]

Yeah I've seen those, I'll probably go that way.

It seems you have to raise the plastic cover around the IC when fitting these. Does anyone know if that causes any issues when you close the bonnet???

[10G]

So those Autron/Redarc or McNally gauges pass electrical cable through the firewall and not hoses with air or fluids??

[mudski]

Yeah I've seen those, I'll probably go that way.

It seems you have to raise the plastic cover around the IC when fitting these. Does anyone know if that causes any issues when you close the bonnet???

Throw that useless plastic cover away....

So those Autron/Redarc or McNally gauges pass electrical cable through the firewall and not hoses with air or fluids??

Yes sir. All electrical. As per pic I run the McNally dual boost/egt gauge between the speedo and Tacho. Then i have a dual pillar pod with a Redarc dual battery gauge and a water temp/ oil pressure gauge in it. Both gauges are good. But my pic for the boost and EGT is the McNally. Due to its pure simplicity. Theres a lot to look at when glancing at a Redarc gauge. In my opinion you want to quickly glimpse over the gauge, the McNally suits this perfectly.

[10G]

Throw that useless plastic cover away....

But it looks nice. I looked at my motor the other day to make sure it was still there and I could see where the foam around the bonnet scoop contacted nicely around the top of the IC. I though that was good.

I spotted a nice looking dual SAAS gauge. Back in the day SAAS stuff was pretty good quality, don't know if it still is??? - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SAAS-2in1...-/322343456938

[mudski]

But it looks nice. I looked at my motor the other day to make sure it was still there and I could see where the foam around the bonnet scoop contacted nicely around the top of the IC. I though that was good.

I spotted a nice looking dual SAAS gauge. Back in the day SAAS stuff was pretty good quality, don't know if it still is??? - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SAAS-2in1...-/322343456938

Each to their own. That cover was the first "mod" I did to my Patrol when I got it home.... SAAS are not that great these days too.

[rainsey]

So those Autron/Redarc or McNally gauges pass electrical cable through the firewall and not hoses with air or fluids??

Correct.

Also just an out there thing, some one indicated that the ingress for cabling through the firewall is via two large rubber grommets either side of the firewall. Continuous playing, prodding can really screw up the rubber. What I have done and touch wood has worked a treat is to make a slightly larger hole through the passengers side grommet an feed through it a length of 20 or 25mm conduit. I have put a pull wire through it and any time I need to pass cabling through Ai have a clean free path through.

Another thing to do if you think you might be adding a few switches like driving lights, compressors, yadda yadda. Use some trailer 7 wire cable and feed this through the aforementioned pipe. Terminate it at both ends on terminal block. You then have at least 7 wires that are already passed through in a manageable form that You can effectively patch at either end. No need for running one cable, then another , then another ...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[threedogs]

But it looks nice. I looked at my motor the other day to make sure it was still there and I could see where the foam around the bonnet scoop contacted nicely around the top of the IC. I though that was good.

I spotted a nice looking dual SAAS gauge. Back in the day SAAS stuff was pretty good quality, don't know if it still is??? - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SAAS-2in1...-/322343456938

I took my engine cover off made no difference to the way things work.
If youre concerned the engine cover will touch you can use a power file to remove a bit to clear where it touches

[10G]

[QUOTE=rainsey;714419Another thing to do if you think you might be adding a few switches like driving lights, compressors, yadda yadda. Use some trailer 7 wire cable and feed this through the aforementioned pipe. Terminate it at both ends on terminal block. You then have at least 7 wires that are already passed through in a manageable form that You can effectively patch at either end. No need for running one cable, then another , then another ...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD[/QUOTE]

That's a bloody great idea, I wish I had thought of that myself, thanks.

So onto exhausts!!

I think I'll go with 3", There are lots of 3" kits around and they are about half the price of a 2.75" kit.

I'm no mechanic and I could be 100% incorrect here, but this is my understanding ...

I've read that the 2.75" gives better back pressure. When I was young & into drag racing, I read that back pressure is good because it helps suck out the exhaust from the combustion chamber when the exhaust valve opens. Back pressure is enhanced and/or created by the design & size of the header pipe and the back pressure does it's thing because the header is bolted directly to the manifold.

But when you have a turbo, I can't see how back pressure can be affected by any size exhaust as the exhaust is connected after the turbo.

That's my understanding of things anyway.

The other thing I've read is that the 3" exhaust causes problems with overboosting, that a 2.75" system doesn't. Fitting a Dawse valve or similar would get rid of that problem. Even if you had a 2.75" system wouldn't you fit a Dawse valve as a security measure anyway?

So with that in mind, I think I'll go with a 3" system top to bottom, no muffler, not even sure about a Cat. Only thing about no Cat is, if Vicroads (I live in Vic) etc pull you over randomly, all they have to do is hang one of those guages on the end of your pipe and if the results grab their attention, they'll look underneath and Bingo, you're gone. Big fine I think.

Who are some reputable exhaust places???

Interested to hear from those with more knowledge than me on all this.

Thanks.