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Thread: Bolt access front caliper gq

  1. #11
    Legendary dom14's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Throbbinhood View Post
    Hey guys, just wondering if anyone knows if I can get better access to the bolts (22mm from memory) at the back of the brake caliper by turning the wheels.

    I couldn't get a socket and ratchet on it last time, but wheels were straight at the time. Don't have a 22mm spanner, going to attack them tonight so working out whether I need to pop into bunnings on way home or if I can just turn the wheels.

    Cheers.
    19mm from memory. Socket & ratchet is probably not the way to go with the tight spot there.
    Box end wrench is the way to go.
    Last edited by dom14; 19th January 2017 at 05:27 PM.
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  3. #12
    Legendary dom14's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Throbbinhood View Post
    Yeah wheel was off. Socket and ratchet were too deep and were fouling on something (can't remember what, was a couple of weeks ago). I think the top caliper bolt was fine, the bottom one is where I couldn't fit it.
    What's wrong with it? Changing pads? If you do so, better to get the rotors machined as well. Bit of work with front ones 'cos of the hub & bearings, but you get to service/adjust/grease the bearings during the job. So, it's not a bad idea.
    I took the rotors to the local brake shop and had them both machined for $25 or something.
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    Doing discs and pads all round, plus doing the wheel bearings and will repack the cv's whilst I'm at it.

  5. #14
    Legendary dom14's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Throbbinhood View Post
    Doing discs and pads all round, plus doing the wheel bearings and will repack the cv's whilst I'm at it.
    Way to go. Mine's just about to get done.
    To repack the CVs you would've to pull it out, right?
    Is it leaking diff oil out of it?
    You can obviously take care of the king ping bearings while doing the wheel bearings.(remove the bearing caps from top and bottom
    and repack them with grease).
    If you gonna repack the CVs, probably better to do the axle oil seals as well.
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    Nah no leaks at all. Yep CV will come out but I don't believe it's too hard (famous last words).

    Wasn't going to do the king pins as I have no wobbles and don't want to disturb them hahaha.

  7. #16
    Legendary dom14's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Throbbinhood View Post
    Nah no leaks at all. Yep CV will come out but I don't believe it's too hard (famous last words).

    Wasn't going to do the king pins as I have no wobbles and don't want to disturb them hahaha.
    That's cool.
    But, I still sticking with "don't fix it if it ain't broken" rule.
    I have to fix axle seals on mine, 'cos it has a slow leak.
    I repacked king pin bearings, 'cos of the grinding kinda noise came from there, though I think
    I over greased it.
    Last edited by dom14; 19th January 2017 at 11:31 PM.
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    I actually think you're right. I think I had to change to antoher socket/and or extension bar to get my bolt off. No dramas really. Use a tool that fits

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