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1st January 2017, 06:42 PM
#1
Unable to locate TB42 coolant leak - what are some of the less obvious areas?
Hi guys
I had a slight water leak from a TB42 carb motor. I flushed and replaced main hoses as these were leaking and I assumed the culprit. The radiator cap was replaced also as the system was not coming up to pressure. Now when I stop the vehicle it dumps a bunch of fluid accumulated in the front tray located under the radiator front of engine area. The timing chain alloy cover is also nicely sprayed green. I ran a descaler through the engine during flushing and now under pressure it seems to have opened a new leak.
With the engine running i could not see a leak from above. However when off I found a few drops, via a rag, under the water pump; however not the stream i would have expected.
Do these engines have any less obvious areas they leak from towards the front of the engine? (Mine is a carby thus doesn't have the allow oil cooler arrngment)
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1st January 2017 06:42 PM
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1st January 2017, 07:05 PM
#2
Edit:
This is the only image i have found of the lower coolant manifold section; does anyone have something from a workshop manual?
tb42 side.jpg
I have checked the bypass hose (the upside down J on the waterpump), upper and lower hoses, the seal around the lower outlet manifold (but only the very outer section that looks similar to a thermostat housing). Does anyone have a part number for this lower manifold/housing?
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1st January 2017, 07:40 PM
#3
Patrol God
i am sure someone here posted something about this here a while ago,check were the timinmg cover meets the head,prick of a spot to see but have a look.type ya question into the search bar and then look at you model and maybe it'll be what you are loking for
Watch this space, as there maybe a comment added soon
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2nd January 2017, 11:38 AM
#4
Water pump internal seal. When cold there is no pressure in the system....when running the impeller creates a low pressure zone behind the seal.....when stopped and hot the pressure gets to the seal and forces the coolant out through the seal and out of the pump body. Had a 750kVA diesel generator do this at work. Had been running for 4 hrs and noticed about a 4 inch round wet patch on the floor under the water pump while it was still running. When we shut it down all hell broke loose and it dumped most of the coolant. It was like someone had turned on a tap.
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2nd January 2017, 01:27 PM
#5
Patrol God
do you fill with the patrol facing uphill with a coke bottle taped to the radiator neck
to lift and burp the coolant level
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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2nd January 2017, 01:37 PM
#6
Thanks guys! I'm certain the water pump is leaking so I'll pick one up today.
I did the coke bottle trick when i replaced all the hoses etc however on the way back from Clare, when it sprung the larger leak, I was regularly topping it up uphill,squeezing hoses and doing the best i could. Fingers crossed!
Side note, but what are good hose clamps to use? I tried one of those worm drive stainless steel items and that was supposedly good quality and it was rubbish.
Last edited by Jonesy_sa; 2nd January 2017 at 01:40 PM.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Jonesy_sa For This Useful Post:
threedogs (2nd January 2017)
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2nd January 2017, 02:09 PM
#7
Legendary
Originally Posted by
Jonesy_sa
Thanks guys! I'm certain the water pump is leaking so I'll pick one up today.
I did the coke bottle trick when i replaced all the hoses etc however on the way back from Clare, when it sprung the larger leak, I was regularly topping it up uphill,squeezing hoses and doing the best i could. Fingers crossed!
Side note, but what are good hose clamps to use? I tried one of those worm drive stainless steel items and that was supposedly good quality and it was rubbish.
Hose clamps that come in little plastic box as a kit may be rubbish. But, if you buy them individually in stainless steel form, they are usually good quality. Another thing I did when necessary was to use two clamps, instead of one, when I was using them from an inferior quality kit.
The stainless steel clamps in Bunnings are usually good enough, or you can buy them from Burson, Repco, Supercheap, Autobarn, etc, but usually the same. You shouldn't need heavy duty screw clamps on coolant hoses.
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2nd January 2017, 02:24 PM
#8
Originally Posted by
dom14
Hose clamps that come in little plastic box as a kit may be rubbish. But, if you buy them individually in stainless steel form, they are usually good quality. Another thing I did when necessary was to use two clamps, instead of one, when I was using them from an inferior quality kit.
The stainless steel clamps in Bunnings are usually good enough, or you can buy them from Burson, Repco, Supercheap, Autobarn, etc, but usually the same. You shouldn't need heavy duty screw clamps on coolant hoses.
Thanks. I'm currently using the twin-wire screw type that came with the vehicle. I purchased the screw type individually at about $2.80 each from autopro however I may have got a bad one.
Out of curiosity has anyone ever had to trim a radiator hose? I purchased the Mackay item from Repco which was way to long and required trimming and was stupidly tight. I've never trimmed one before but wasn't sure if this was more common with 4x4's to suite body lifts etc
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2nd January 2017, 09:09 PM
#9
Who sells the thermostat housing? I tried a couple of parts stores today and its not even listed on their system. I found one seller on eBay only.
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2nd January 2017, 09:25 PM
#10
Patrol God
Watch this space, as there maybe a comment added soon
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