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4th December 2016, 04:04 PM
#11
Hi Covo71 As Dom has suggested copper based grease is best - you can buy a kit which includes the rubber to fit the slide pin - with that and the grease the "crap" wont build so quickly. Have done mine several thousand Ks back and seems to be good.
Regards
Peter
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The Following User Says Thank You to peterc99 For This Useful Post:
dom14 (4th December 2016)
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4th December 2016 04:04 PM
# ADS
Circuit advertisement
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4th December 2016, 11:54 PM
#12
Legendary
Originally Posted by
dom14
You won't find the pins by themselves, .
I was obviously wrong about this, but they are bit too dear to buy retail obviously.
I'm sure brake repair shops have them in bulk, 'cos they buy they cheap in bulk.
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5th December 2016, 12:03 AM
#13
Legendary
Originally Posted by
mudski
The issue with pitted slides is that they may catch on the caliper. I think you would need to replace them. The easiest but not cheapest way would be to buy another set of second hand calipers, and put a kit through them, with new slide pins if they require them. Then you can just swap them over. Or, buy a caliper kit and new pins, remove the calipers, rebuild them and put them back on.
We I did the brake conversion on my GU I also removed the rear and rebuilt them. So I just left a day aside spare and did the lot in the day.
Yeah, obviously you did it right mate.
Just need to spend bit of time with wreckers, 'cos most of them quote prices way above the real value, and not too far from a brand new piece.
In my case, I negotiated the price.
If the wreckers want too much for a used piece, it's better to do a DIY rebuild or get it done by a professional.
Cheers
Dom
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5th December 2016, 01:56 PM
#14
Patrol Guru
Pulled the brakes out again. Callipers are all good. Boot is slightly split on the inside. I don't think you can buy the rubber boot(insert) by itself so may have to get a kit and I will buy a new slide as well. Done once done right. Cost about $80 I suppose. Better to be safe than sorry. I would hate for something to wrong if wifey is driving and I could have fixed it.
Thanks for the help guys.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Covo71 For This Useful Post:
mudski (5th December 2016)
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5th December 2016, 03:24 PM
#15
Yeah dont do stuff in halves when it comes to brakes Scott. That little extra coin spent on new slide pins is nothing compared to, if the unthinkable happens.
Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk
Last edited by mudski; 5th December 2016 at 03:29 PM.
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The Following User Says Thank You to mudski For This Useful Post:
dom14 (5th December 2016)
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5th December 2016, 03:52 PM
#16
Patrol Guru
I am sure the old mav would survive a bomb blast but listening to the missus for the rest of my life about it I probably couldn't handle.
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5th December 2016, 04:02 PM
#17
Patrol Guru
Hi Peter, do you remember where you got the kit from?
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5th December 2016, 09:35 PM
#18
Legendary
Originally Posted by
mudski
Yeah dont do stuff in halves when it comes to brakes Scott. That little extra coin spent on new slide pins is nothing compared to, if the unthinkable happens.
Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk
Yeah mate, I agree. You're right. It's not a good idea to do brake related repairs cheaply.
I was emphasizing more about the difference between a DIY cost and professional rebuild.
When a DIY rebuild is not too far from a pro rebuild, it may be better to get it done professionally unless we
love the idea of doing it DIY(which is one of the reason I DIY )
Last edited by dom14; 5th December 2016 at 09:44 PM.
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The Following User Says Thank You to dom14 For This Useful Post:
mudski (5th December 2016)
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5th December 2016, 09:44 PM
#19
Legendary
Originally Posted by
Covo71
Pulled the brakes out again. Callipers are all good. Boot is slightly split on the inside. I don't think you can buy the rubber boot(insert) by itself so may have to get a kit and I will buy a new slide as well. Done once done right. Cost about $80 I suppose. Better to be safe than sorry. I would hate for something to wrong if wifey is driving and I could have fixed it.
Thanks for the help guys.
Yeah, I reckon you're on the right path.
Take your time with the rebuild.
The piston boot is pretty easy to damage during the effort to insert it, so take your time with it.
Also be patient and gentle during the bleeding.
Older master cylinders can get damaged(the seal) when pushed bit too far in during the bleeding(using brake pedal & simple bleeding kit).
I reckon the brake bleed vacuum pump is a good investment you can make for doing brake bleeding safely.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hand-Held...AAAOSwGtRX1hnj
Check to see how much it would cost if you take the caliper out and take it to a brake specialist to have it rebuilt.
It may or may not come to not too far from the DIY rebuild cost.
If that's the case, make a decision based on how much you enjoy doing it yourself.
I like the idea of DIY, 'cos the experience come handy on many other things, but it's easy to overdo it as in my case from time
to time.
Cheers
Dom
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5th December 2016, 09:47 PM
#20
Legendary
Originally Posted by
Covo71
Hi Peter, do you remember where you got the kit from?
Repco, Burson, etc or you can get it from ebay if you can wait for the delivery.
Last edited by dom14; 9th December 2016 at 11:13 PM.
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