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8th August 2016, 09:08 PM
#1
Travelling Podologist
Another GU drivers door problem.
I replaced the drivers door lock mechanism with a new unit because I was concerned that it was on the way out after experiencing a couple of times when the key would not unlock it.
I couldn't see anything wrong with the old mechanism, & the key behaviour has remained much the same - ie need to turn it one way & then the other to unlock. Today I experienced the same problem which led me to replacing the mechanism. Put the key in to unlock the drivers door & couldn't turn the key at all, in either direction. Jiggling the key made no difference, I had to unlock the passenger door (key worked smooth & problem free), climb in & unlock the driver door from inside - whch worked perfectly normally. I then retried the key in the driver's door & it worked ok as it usually does for several locking/unlocking cycles, & then 'jammed' again.
Any thoughts as to what is going on?
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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8th August 2016 09:08 PM
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8th August 2016, 09:18 PM
#2
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8th August 2016, 09:23 PM
#3
Travelling Podologist
Are barrels replaceable utilising the same key, or does replacement mean having to have a separate key just for the driver door.
If it is wearing out it doesn't say much for the quality of the barrel. I've had much older cars which have had far more use & have never had a barrel wear out before.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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8th August 2016, 09:32 PM
#4
Legendary
Originally Posted by
Cuppa
I replaced the drivers door lock mechanism with a new unit because I was concerned that it was on the way out after experiencing a couple of times when the key would not unlock it.
I couldn't see anything wrong with the old mechanism, & the key behaviour has remained much the same - ie need to turn it one way & then the other to unlock. Today I experienced the same problem which led me to replacing the mechanism. Put the key in to unlock the drivers door & couldn't turn the key at all, in either direction. Jiggling the key made no difference, I had to unlock the passenger door (key worked smooth & problem free), climb in & unlock the driver door from inside - whch worked perfectly normally. I then retried the key in the driver's door & it worked ok as it usually does for several locking/unlocking cycles, & then 'jammed' again.
Any thoughts as to what is going on?
I've been experiencing the same thing. Not always but sometimes.
Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk
12/97 GEE YOU
4.5lt Gas blower. Lots of mods to come.....all in good time.
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8th August 2016, 09:58 PM
#5
Expert
every now and then used to feel it catch when turning and yep had to do the jiggle etc, .. Ended up puting in central locking a few weeks ago so keyless now and its great.
2001 Patrol 4.2TD manual 2" lift; Beaudesert 3" Exhaust
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9th August 2016, 11:14 AM
#6
Expert
Had same prob with mine too. Changed mech too late tho = hours of fun.
Apologies if asking obvious...
Do you have a spare/master key? Maybe current key is worn?
I'm using a new-ish non-genuine key for the door/ignition, so this may be how I actually fixed prob after mech change - only vaguely recall getting it cut - it was a while back!
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The Following User Says Thank You to UncleFrosty For This Useful Post:
growler2058 (9th August 2016)
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9th August 2016, 01:10 PM
#7
Patrol God
how old is the key it may be that worn its not picking up the small tumbler thinghies
A locksmith would be able to key it alike
Your key would have a number wouldn't it???
EDIT:: is this just a DX problem or does it effect other models??
Last edited by threedogs; 9th August 2016 at 02:41 PM.
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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9th August 2016, 02:44 PM
#8
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
Cuppa
If it is wearing out it doesn't say much for the quality of the barrel. I've had much older cars which have had far more use & have never had a barrel wear out before.
A sign of the times , things arent made to last these days its a recycle world we live in
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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9th August 2016, 03:42 PM
#9
Legendary
Mines a ST
Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk
12/97 GEE YOU
4.5lt Gas blower. Lots of mods to come.....all in good time.
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9th August 2016, 04:57 PM
#10
Travelling Podologist
The key does look a bit worn, but my spare which is noticeably less worn gets the same result. Besides both keys operate the passenger door as smooth as.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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