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Thread: GU driver's door won't open.

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    GU driver's door won't open.

    2003 GU, 210k, only trouble ever has been a new alternator. Never touched anything else including the brake pads. Lost a bit of trim in the rough but that's what they're for.

    Wife comes home and announces the driver's door won't open. And she's right. Finally. The lock doesn't quite unlock fully. And of course you can't remove the trim. Reading the forum, seems like it isn't an uncommon problem, it is the actual lock mechanism itself that has failed. I spent quite some time poking around the levers in the door, having wound down the window and levered the window back away from the door trim. By taking the passenger door trim off and comparing the movements, it was clear that it was the lock. The old bent coathanger acting directly on the mechanism got nowhere. So you've got to actuate the snick on the lock.

    First, pull off the interior trim that clips onto the pillar, up as far as the roof and tuck it out of the way. It slides out of the bottom plastic footplate easily. Remove the seat belt bolt at the base of the plastic pillar cover, and unclip the cover. With a torch, you can now see the door lock between the door and the pillar. Or, at least, you can see the lower white plastic striker plate, and the black striker. By checking how it works on the passenger side (use a medium screwdriver to "close" the latch, note that there are two stages of closing, the safety part where the door is still part open, and fully shut) you can see that if you can get something between the striker plate and the striker you can release the snick and open the door. To do this, drill an 8mm hole in the pillar:

    http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...&thumb=1&stc=1

    At an angle:

    http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...&thumb=1&stc=1

    Studying the passenger side again, you can see that you need to break the striker plate at the rear to get access to the snick. I used a 1/8" wood chisel to break enough away to allow me to slide a long thin screwdriver underneath the striker:

    http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...&thumb=1&stc=1

    Push the screwdriver under the striker. Use a hammer gently if necessary. Once you think it is in far enough, jiggle it around and pull on the door. The first snick opens it to the safety latch, then you may need to push the driver in further if it didn't travel with the door (i.e. got caught on the striker) for a second snick that opens it.

    With mine, the mechanism itself was broken. Unserviceable. The door unopenable except possibly with the coathanger if you could position it precisely on a latch to pull up from underneath the lock - but you'd have to be incredibly lucky.

    Second hand part for $110, will be well lubricated before installation, although that might not have been the problem.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. The Following 7 Users Say Thank You to ons348 For This Useful Post:

    AB (4th August 2016), Cuppa (4th August 2016), growler2058 (4th August 2016), jack (4th August 2016), Nixon (27th January 2020), the evil twin (4th August 2016), Woof (4th August 2016)

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    SPAMINATOR growler2058's Avatar
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    That would have saved my door trim
    IF YA DONT GET STUCK YA AINT TRYIN HARD ENOUGH........OR YA TOOK THE CHICKEN TRACK
    WARNING: TOWBALLS USED WITH SNATCHSTRAPS DO KILL!!
    My GenUine TOUGH Patrol 07 DX CRD Turned into a COMMY UTE!!


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    That door lock design is crap. It's going to happen again, isn't it? Unless we just leave it unlocked all the time to not stress out the locking mechanism. With the key security preventing the engine from starting, not much to lose.

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    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    Might be worth making this thread ‘sticky’? I’m sure others will find it of use in the future.

    Thanks ons348

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, Lovells GVM upgrade, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697’s, Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, Tyredog TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
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    Your welcome. "sticky"? I'm new to the forum!

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    SPAMINATOR growler2058's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cuppa View Post
    Might be worth making this thread ‘sticky’? I’m sure others will find it of use in the future.

    Thanks ons348
    Yup done............
    IF YA DONT GET STUCK YA AINT TRYIN HARD ENOUGH........OR YA TOOK THE CHICKEN TRACK
    WARNING: TOWBALLS USED WITH SNATCHSTRAPS DO KILL!!
    My GenUine TOUGH Patrol 07 DX CRD Turned into a COMMY UTE!!


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    Quote Originally Posted by ons348 View Post
    Your welcome. "sticky"? I'm new to the forum!
    Stays at the top of a section so people can find it easier, you did good mate, cheers for your helpful post!

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    Patrol God threedogs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cuppa View Post
    Might be worth making this thread ‘sticky’? I’m sure others will find it of use in the future.

    Thanks ons348
    Well done "Sticky" RLMFAO
    Trouble is there is no way to avoid this you either get locked out or you dont lol
    04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there

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    Many thanks, helped me get the door open & allow me to get to trim & lock. Hopefully will be able to patch up using another thread showing how to replace the broken plastic lug with a cut off screw. Hopefully. Thanks again.

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    Found the troublesome broken plastic plug wedged in door lock, replaced it with a metal screw , working well . Will not replace door trim for a while , just in case. Many thanks to Previous threads. Having difficulties in attaching pics.

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