OUR VIDEOS GALLERY MEMBER SPONSORSHIP VENDOR SPONSORSHIP

User Tag List

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 24

Thread: Narva 7 pin Flat Plug and Brake Controller

  1. #11
    Patrol Guru
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    640
    Thanks
    44
    Thanked 292 Times in 204 Posts
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks bigguwesty. I'll try with some smaller cable and see how I go. Thanks all.

  2. The Following User Says Thank You to Throbbinhood For This Useful Post:

    BigRAWesty (19th July 2016)

  3. # ADS
    Circuit advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Posts
    Many

     

  4. #12
    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Ballarat, Vic
    Posts
    6,749
    Thanks
    2,135
    Thanked 7,424 Times in 3,003 Posts
    Mentioned
    174 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Throbbinhood View Post
    I'll try with some smaller cable and see how I go.
    I'd suggest that you contact the brake controller manufacturer or an auto electrician & as their advice about cable size in mm2. The electric brake actuators at the wheels will require a minimum voltage & if the cable is too thin you *may* not get this because of voltage drop. The specification of the wire in amps by the brake controller manufacturer is to ensure the cable is thick enough to ensure you dont get too much voltage drop, not because it needs to carry 20 amps.

    This may help. https://www.couplemate.com.au/carava...ic-brakes-faq/ Note that the measurements are in Sq.mm of copper. Autocable sizing is misleading as it includes the insulation as well as the copper, so if for example you need 4mm2 & bought 4mm autocable, your cable would be inadequate.

    I'd suggest that that '25 amp' jaycar cable is too thin.

    As has been suggested already 6mm cable (auto cable) is a fairly safe bet. Many caravanners get around the connecting it to the 7/12 pin socket problem by 'bypassing' the socket altogether, & instead using an Anderson connector for the brake controller cable.
    Last edited by Cuppa; 19th July 2016 at 09:20 AM.

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
    A Nomadic Life (Blog)

  5. #13
    Patrol Guru
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    640
    Thanks
    44
    Thanked 292 Times in 204 Posts
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Cuppa View Post
    I'd suggest that you contact the brake controller manufacturer or an auto electrician & as their advice about cable size in mm2. The electric brake actuators at the wheels will require a minimum voltage & if the cable is too thin you *may* not get this because of voltage drop. The specification of the wire in amps by the brake controller manufacturer is to ensure the cable is thick enough to ensure you dont get too much voltage drop, not because it needs to carry 20 amps.

    This may help. https://www.couplemate.com.au/carava...ic-brakes-faq/ Note that the measurements are in Sq.mm of copper. Autocable sizing is misleading as it includes the insulation as well as the copper, so if for example you need 4mm2 & bought 4mm autocable, your cable would be inadequate.

    I'd suggest that that '25 amp' jaycar cable is too thin.

    As has been suggested already 6mm cable (auto cable) is a fairly safe bet. Many caravanners get around the connecting it to the 7/12 pin socket problem by 'bypassing' the socket altogether, & instead using an Anderson connector for the brake controller cable.
    Well the Jaycar cable appears spot on the thickness that the brake controller is supplied with, if not fractionally bigger.

    Why would the jaycar cable be too thin, if it's rated at the correct amp rating (actually over by 5amps).

  6. #14
    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Ballarat, Vic
    Posts
    6,749
    Thanks
    2,135
    Thanked 7,424 Times in 3,003 Posts
    Mentioned
    174 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Throbbinhood View Post
    Well the Jaycar cable appears spot on the thickness that the brake controller is supplied with, if not fractionally bigger.

    Why would the jaycar cable be too thin, if it's rated at the correct amp rating (actually over by 5amps).
    Quote Originally Posted by Cuppa View Post
    The specification of the wire in amps by the brake controller manufacturer is to ensure the cable is thick enough to ensure you dont get too much voltage drop, not because it needs to carry 20 amps.
    Read the article I found for you. You will see that the actual current draw of the brakes is significantly less than the capability of the wire. It's current carrying capacity in this instance is an irrelevant red herring. Stop thinking about 'Amp rated' cable, & instead think in terms of the amount of copper - in mm2. You will see that 3mm2 may be ok depending upon whether the two wheels are wired in series or in parallel. I suggested 6mm autocable (which is actually about 4.5 or 4.6mm2 copper) because this would work in either configuration. That Jaycar cable is only 2.9mm2 - Brakes are important & cable being slightly undersized at 12v could be the difference between effective & ineffective brakes. Over time a bit of oxidation on the connectors can easily increase resistance, resulting in even greater voltage drop, so using 2.9mm2 cable which is marginal at best in this application is not really conducive to long term reliability even if it is sufficient at the outset.

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
    A Nomadic Life (Blog)

  7. #15
    The master farter
    mudski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Eltham North
    Posts
    15,618
    Thanks
    8,680
    Thanked 11,319 Times in 6,443 Posts
    Mentioned
    461 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    FWIW. I have the same controller and are just using the standard 4mm 7core wire for the lot and have been for the past 2 years with no issues.

  8. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to mudski For This Useful Post:

    BigRAWesty (19th July 2016), Throbbinhood (19th July 2016)

  9. #16
    Expert
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    191
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 37 Times in 26 Posts
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have recently wired up a Red Arc brake controller and went through the same dramas. I used a trailer socket from Super Cheap Auto that was made of metal and included test LEDs in it to make wiring really easy, it handled the 25A wiring easily.

    I'm no electrical engineer, but if the manufacturer has specified 25A then that it what I installed. According to the manufacturer, 25A wiring is able to support up to triple axle braked trailers, more than I will ever need.
    WARNING: Using a Tow Ball on any Snatch can KILL PEOPLE!

  10. #17
    Patrol Guru
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    640
    Thanks
    44
    Thanked 292 Times in 204 Posts
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by JME_GU View Post
    I used a trailer socket from Super Cheap Auto that was made of metal and included test LEDs
    Was it a flat plug by chance? Really hoping to stick with a flat plug.

  11. #18
    Expert
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    317
    Thanks
    5
    Thanked 186 Times in 136 Posts
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have got the Redarc controller, The cable I used just fitted in the genuine Nissan socket, I can't remember the actual size.
    The problem I have is that the contacts are obviously not that good, I have to clean the contacts almost every time I connect (blue light flickers off)
    I will have to look at the 12 pin set up.
    Trailer is tandem axle car trailer with brakes on one axle.
    Graham

  12. #19
    Expert johno90's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Moranbah QLD
    Posts
    329
    Thanks
    2
    Thanked 107 Times in 72 Posts
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    As cuppa mentioned dont get trapped into mm vs mm2, there is many different ways to measure a cable, but as suggest 6mm auto cable is what id run, 90% of 7 pin sockets ive used have fit this, maybe yours is an odd one and have a look at a different brand socket but still std 7 pin

  13. #20
    Expert johno90's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Moranbah QLD
    Posts
    329
    Thanks
    2
    Thanked 107 Times in 72 Posts
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by bigguwesty View Post
    Imo your using cable too big..
    A bit of 3mm wire is all you need..
    It's what they use on the hubs so can't see why you need bigger for the bit between lol..

    I was going to suggest the 12 pin flat as they have 5 larger pins as you mentioned. But imo that's for fridge and battery power..
    12 pin is also handy if you wish to have a reverse camera on the van..
    They use 3mm on each hub which yes is fine for that hub. Then 2x hubs plus distance. All this calls for a bigger size cable.

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •