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Thread: Westy's trip to the top

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    Patrol God threedogs's Avatar
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    Katherine gorge and the Cutta Cutta caves are worth a visit when down Katherine way,
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    Kallen, thoughts off the top of my head, heed or ignore them as you choose.

    It’s an ambitious trip for 4 or 5 weeks, a high driving time to stopping time ratio, particularly if it’s your first time up there. Do-able, but I reckon you would have a far better time if you cut out the leg to Kunnanurra & Halls Creek. Depends on what you want, & also when you want to go. I can tell you from experience that it can become very tiring, especially if it’s hot.

    There is plenty to see without heading west at Katherine.

    Here are my recommendations (& not an exhaustive list ). Others will probably add their personal favourites.

    Your planned route to Alice. I’ve only done parts of it. Lots of history along the way, Lots to stop & explore/photograph as well as the ‘remote’ experience. ? Could easily spend a week to 10 days.

    Alice itself is not that special, stop there to stock up with supplies , but plan to camp out in the east & West Macdonnells. A good overnighter in the West Macs if you have your own toilet is Howards Lookout. Fantastic views. A good base camp in the West Macs is at Ormiston Gorge - toilets, showers & shelters. Explore from there - easily a couple of day trips, or longer if you like a bit of bushwalking. Out in the East Macs there is a reasonable campground at Trephina Gorge with basic facilities (toilets, water & shelters) but the camp ground at Ross River Homestead is really nice if open. A couple of days + in the East Macs.

    Uluru & Kata Tjuta - ‘magnificent’ & something every Aussie should see at least once in their life! Allow a day to travel from Alice to the rock, to set up camp & have a dip in the pool. Another day to see the Rock at dawn & dusk, & to walk around it/visit the info centre. Break camp and spend 3rd day visiting Kata Tjuta & doing the Valley of the Winds walk if you are feeling reasonably fit spending that night at the Spring Creek free camp (no facilities) en route to Kings Canyon. A further day/overnighter at Kings Canyon.

    Plenty to stop & look at between Alice & Darwin.

    An overnight camp behind the Devils Marbles a bit south of Tennant Creek

    Katherine Gorge.

    Everyone raves about Mataranka, but honestly Bitter Springs just 10 minutes away is far more appealing. There is a caravan park there & the creek is natural, beautifully warm, crystal clear & just take a floatie & allow the current to carry you. Rather like Mataranka thermal pool was years ago before they concreted it like a swimming pool. Actually it’s better.

    Edith Falls. Fantastic camp north of Katherine, brilliant swimming in the lower pool & up in the top pools. Full facilities & a kiosk. I would never bypass Edith Falls.

    If staying in Katherine, the Manbulloo Station camp about 9kms out of town is right on the banks of the Katherine River & a very laid back sort of place. Much nicer than the CP’s in town. I’d prefer staing there & doing a day trip to Katherine Gorge. Go early to beat the heat of the day. Didn’t like the campground at the gorge.

    Daly Waters pub. Camp ground next to the pub.

    Kakadu - River/Billabongs/wildlife + Aboriginal heritage + Stone country.

    Turn off at Pine Creek - Gunlom Falls - relax in a pool with extensive views at the top of a waterfall. Campground.
    Yellow Waters - Get up early & take the breakfast cruise. You’ll think you’re in the middle of a david Attenborough doc. Huge variety of birdlife close up & plenty of crocs (also close up).
    Cahills Crossing - stay at one of the NP campgrounds - ‘Merl’ is the closest. Make sure you are at the crossing at the turn of the tide for all the croc action - better than paid for jumping croc tours & free to boot. Ask at the Border Store when the tide time will be. If up for an easy walk the Bardejilledji walk is close by & takes you through some interesting stone structures & if you keep your eyes open some unusual rock art that many folk don’t see.
    .
    Ubirr rock, also close by has probably the best display of refreshed rock art as well as one of the best Kakadu views from the top of the rock. Kakadu can be either disappointing or mind blowing, this is largely dependent upon when you visit. If you are lucky to be there when the many billabongs have there water levels low enough for wading birds you’ll be rewarded by the sight of millions of birds as far as the eye can see. These are what I’d recommend for a short (?3 day) visit. There is much more to see if you stay longer.

    Leave Kakadu heading toward Darwin. The campground at Annaburroo Homestead has a typically unique NT flavour as well as a croc free Billabong for swimming & canoeing, plenty of roos, a bar, & all facilities. Entrance off the highway directly opposite the Bark Hut Inn.

    I guess Darwin is somewhere you have to check out whilst up that way. I liked it almost 30 years ago but these days it’s become a mining boom fuelled strip development which does little for me.
    If you’ve never been, there is stuff worth checking out, but I’d doubt it will be a trip highlight.

    Litchfield is mainly about waterfalls, rightly so, but leaving your camper in a campground & taking the car around the tight track into the ‘Lost City’ will reward you with an interesting & easy walk.

    Mate, there are so any other things you could see whilst covering that ground but you’d need several months. Over your 4 or 5 weeks you’ll just be scraping the surface & seeing the highlights. Don’t underestimate the tiring nature of travelling every day, especially when hot, allow for as much stopping time as travelling time. Far better to be relaxed & appreciate what you are seeing than to try to do too much, get tired & grouchy & end up standing in front of magnificence wondering why you bothered! I’ve done it both ways!.
    When driving try to take a break every couple of hours & have a good look at the country you are standing on when you do. Plan to set up camp by mid afternoon on each travel day.Too many people describe travelling through hundreds of kilometres of ’nothing’. They wouldn’t say that if they stopped & took notice of their surroundings every so often. They miss so much. It’s the little unexpected stuff which stays in the memories just as much as the big ticket stuff.

    You might find some of the photos in the relevant sections of my (now aging) trip blog will whet your appetite. http://www.cuppa500.com/_Big_Trip/Archive.html
    Last edited by Cuppa; 3rd July 2016 at 03:12 PM.

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  6. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cuppa View Post
    Kallen, thoughts off the top of my head, heed or ignore them as you choose.

    It’s an ambitious trip for 4 or 5 weeks, a high driving time to stopping time ratio, particularly if it’s your first time up there. Do-able, but I reckon you would have a far better time if you cut out the leg to Kunnanurra & Halls Creek. Depends on what you want, & also when you want to go. I can tell you from experience that it can become very tiring, especially if it’s hot.

    There is plenty to see without heading west at Katherine.

    Here are my recommendations (& not an exhaustive list ). Others will probably add their personal favourites.

    Your planned route to Alice. I’ve only done parts of it. Lots of history along the way, Lots to stop & explore/photograph as well as the ‘remote’ experience. ? Could easily spend a week to 10 days.

    Alice itself is not that special, stop there to stock up with supplies , but plan to camp out in the east & West Macdonnells. A good overnighter in the West Macs if you have your own toilet is Howards Lookout. Fantastic views. A good base camp in the West Macs is at Ormiston Gorge - toilets, showers & shelters. Explore from there - easily a couple of day trips, or longer if you like a bit of bushwalking. Out in the East Macs there is a reasonable campground at Trephina Gorge with basic facilities (toilets, water & shelters) but the camp ground at Ross River Homestead is really nice if open. A couple of days + in the East Macs.

    Uluru & Kata Tjuta - ‘magnificent’ & something every Aussie should see at least once in their life! Allow a day to travel from Alice to the rock, to set up camp & have a dip in the pool. Another day to see the Rock at dawn & dusk, & to walk around it/visit the info centre. Break camp and spend 3rd day visiting Kata Tjuta & doing the Valley of the Winds walk if you are feeling reasonably fit spending that night at the Spring Creek free camp (no facilities) en route to Kings Canyon. A further day/overnighter at Kings Canyon.

    Plenty to stop & look at between Alice & Darwin.

    An overnight camp behind the Devils Marbles a bit south of Tennant Creek

    Katherine Gorge.

    Everyone raves about Mataranka, but honestly Bitter Springs just 10 minutes away is far more appealing. There is a caravan park there & the creek is natural, beautifully warm, crystal clear & just take a floatie & allow the current to carry you. Rather like Mataranka thermal pool was years ago before they concreted it like a swimming pool. Actually it’s better.

    Edith Falls. Fantastic camp north of Katherine, brilliant swimming in the lower pool & up in the top pools. Full facilities & a kiosk. I would never bypass Edith Falls.

    If staying in Katherine, the Manbulloo Station camp about 9kms out of town is right on the banks of the Katherine River & a very laid back sort of place. Much nicer than the CP’s in town. I’d prefer staing there & doing a day trip to Katherine Gorge. Go early to beat the heat of the day. Didn’t like the campground at the gorge.

    Daly Waters pub. Camp ground next to the pub.

    Kakadu - River/Billabongs/wildlife + Aboriginal heritage + Stone country.

    Turn off at Pine Creek - Gunlom Falls - relax in a pool with extensive views at the top of a waterfall. Campground.
    Yellow Waters - Get up early & take the breakfast cruise. You’ll think you’re in the middle of a david Attenborough doc. Huge variety of birdlife close up & plenty of crocs (also close up).
    Cahills Crossing - stay at one of the NP campgrounds - ‘Merl’ is the closest. Make sure you are at the crossing at the turn of the tide for all the croc action - better than paid for jumping croc tours & free to boot. Ask at the Border Store when the tide time will be. If up for an easy walk the Bardejilledji walk is close by & takes you through some interesting stone structures & if you keep your eyes open some unusual rock art that many folk don’t see.
    .
    Ubirr rock, also close by has probably the best display of refreshed rock art as well as one of the best Kakadu views from the top of the rock. Kakadu can be either disappointing or mind blowing, this is largely dependent upon when you visit. If you are lucky to be there when the many billabongs have there water levels low enough for wading birds you’ll be rewarded by the sight of millions of birds as far as the eye can see. These are what I’d recommend for a short (?3 day) visit. There is much more to see if you stay longer.

    Leave Kakadu heading toward Darwin. The campground at Annaburroo Homestead has a typically unique NT flavour as well as a croc free Billabong for swimming & canoeing, plenty of roos, a bar, & all facilities. Entrance off the highway directly opposite the Bark Hut Inn.

    I guess Darwin is somewhere you have to check out whilst up that way. I liked it almost 30 years ago but these days it’s become a mining boom fuelled strip development which does little for me.
    If you’ve never been, there is stuff worth checking out, but I’d doubt it will be a trip highlight.

    Litchfield is mainly about waterfalls, rightly so, but leaving your camper in a campground & taking the car around the tight track into the ‘Lost City’ will reward you with an interesting & easy walk.

    Mate, there are so any other things you could see whilst covering that ground but you’d need several months. Over your 4 or 5 weeks you’ll just be scraping the surface & seeing the highlights. Don’t underestimate the tiring nature of travelling every day, especially when hot, allow for as much stopping time as travelling time. Far better to be relaxed & appreciate what you are seeing than to try to do too much, get tired & grouchy & end up standing in front of magnificence wondering why you bothered! I’ve done it both ways!.
    When driving try to take a break every couple of hours & have a good look at the country you are standing on when you do. Plan to set up camp by mid afternoon on each travel day.Too many people describe travelling through hundreds of kilometres of ’nothing’. They wouldn’t say that if they stopped & took notice of their surroundings every so often. They miss so much. It’s the little unexpected stuff which stays in the memories just as much as the big ticket stuff.

    You might find some of the photos in the relevant sections of my (now aging) trip blog will whet your appetite. http://www.cuppa500.com/_Big_Trip/Archive.html
    As always mate everyone's input is regauded highly and as mentioned to Tony this is what I want to hear..
    Much rather plan it then shoot off on a whim and not enjoy it..

    Just to touch a few points..
    Darwin.. I think we're stopping in to say we've done it..
    Imo it's just a city and as you have put one that's been taken by b the mining.. I'd say it's similar to Roxby. Just closer to water lol..

    We plan to spend more time bush than highway..

    How many days should I expect on the Oodnadatta track?
    Remembering were going threw to Dalhousie, mt dare and charlotte waters then onto Alice.

    And also how many days on the Tanami? From reading it's about 2 days crossing..
    Cheers
    Kallen Westbrook

  7. #14
    Patrol God threedogs's Avatar
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    Boy have you got Darwin all wrong, its a booming town with all the signs of getting even bigger.
    You'll not want for anything in Darwin it has the lot, great restaurants, a new wave beach.etc
    I love Darwin,,, worked out of Darwin and have lived in Darwin for a short time too, it will blow your mind
    Great WW2 history as well
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  9. #15
    I am he, fear me the evil twin's Avatar
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    What Cuppa said X 2 pretty much except Darwin

    Must do's (in the order of your travel roughly) -
    Dalhousie
    Lambert Centre (tick box)
    Chambers Pillar (note that it only does it's 'thing' at Sunset but the other formations there are equally speccy IMHO)
    Alice Springs Transport Museum
    Mataranka (Feed the Barra/Pools/Bitter Springs/Cutta Cutta as per your choice)
    Katherine Gorge (Cruise or Chopper)

    If you turn off near Pine Creek and go to Kakadon't
    UDP (Gunlom) Falls is speccy esp if you have seen Croc Dundee #1 (bottom end of Park)
    Maguk (bottom end as well)
    Ubirr Rock and Cahills (top end of Park) agree as per Cuppa's post
    and Twin or Jim Jim Falls or both or skip if limited time.
    On the way out def stop at Bark Hut Inn for a look.
    and 'Windows on the Wetland' is OK (and free)
    at Humpty Doo, be reverent as you pass thru as that is where E.T. used to live.
    (reverse the order if you go in from the Darwin end)

    Darwin (I disagree with Cuppa here, yes, it isn't a frontier town now but there are heaps to do and see)
    Def must see - Aviation Museum - Free IIRC (B52 Bomber),
    Def must see - NT Musuem and Maritime Museum - Free (see how big Sweetheart the Boat Eating Croc was)
    Def must see - East Point War Museum - Free
    Def must see - QANTAS Hangar and Vintage Motor thingy at Parap - Donation Entry
    Fannie Bay Gaol
    Def must do if open - Mindil Beach Markets (Sunday Evenings)
    Darwin Wharf Precinct
    Litchfield National Park (Sandy Creek Falls and Buley Rockholes were my favs)

    West NT and top of WA
    Lake Argyle
    Bungle Bungles

    Uluru etc
    Do at least a couple of the Gorges
    Purchase the Meereenie Loop Road Pass shortcut to Kings
    Kings Canyon (do the rim walk) if staying at Kings Resort and want power site book or get there early the day before but I like Kings Creek Station better
    Yulara you will need at least two nights really, one so you can see the Sunset and one so you can actually get to time to see/cycle/walk around the Rockand also do the Olgas

    Fuel ATM is
    $1:40 ish in the off the highway NT like Jabiru
    $1:60 ish top of WA and
    $1:80 ish at the remote sites like Kings, Yulara etc but haven't heard about Yuendumu for ages
    Scary at Oodnadatta/Mt Dare/Finke

    I think you are more than OK for your fuel calcs assuming 8,000 K's but prob a fair bit low on your spend budget
    Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.

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    Plenty of history, Darwin was originally called Palmerston till 1911
    where it was moved to its present location
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Darwin...hern_Territory
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    This may or may not help you. Saw it earlier. Thought I'd show ya.

    http://www.expeditionaustralia.com.a...t-spreadsheet/

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    Patrol God BigRAWesty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hodge View Post
    This may or may not help you. Saw it earlier. Thought I'd show ya.

    http://www.expeditionaustralia.com.a...t-spreadsheet/
    Thanks mate. Just down loaded..
    Cheers
    Kallen Westbrook

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cuppa View Post
    Everyone raves about Mataranka, but honestly Bitter Springs just 10 minutes away is far more appealing. There is a caravan park there & the creek is natural, beautifully warm, crystal clear & just take a floatie & allow the current to carry you. Rather like Mataranka thermal pool was years ago before they concreted it like a swimming pool. Actually it’s better.
    When I suggested Mataranka I meant Bitter Springs, that is where we stayed and really enjoyed floating in the creek. The caravan park pub had live music by Garry Booth while we were there too which was great.

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    Sounds like a great trip, I agree, don't be in a hurry mate, if you have 5 weeks then plan to enjoy it and not come home cranky without lifetime memories.

    Plan to give decent time to good places, if you can't get everywhere that's ok, you will get back again.

    Question... Is your Dove an Off-road unit? If not then you have some work to do bud, corrugaions kill. Have a bloody good look at your unit and make changes, brace, strengthen, upgrade. If your damper is not up to it your trip could go to shit quickly mate. The Ghan Heritage Trail up to Finke is rough with sleepers still in the ground in sections.

    I reckon your trying to fit too much in mate.
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