Long Range Petrol tank access issue

[dom14]

Truthfully, I think by the time you have all of your double redundancy devices in place, you will have twice the joins, wiring seals and equipment to go wrong.

And you are damn right about that.
Nobody knows it better than you do.
And I ain't kidding.
I've already experienced a fair bit of it myself.

BTW, I am big believer in sealing the wires from water/dust/air ingress, since I've had this troll.
If you've seen the pictures above, you know the connectors to the tank was not good with all the crud getting in between them.

[dom14]

It should of had a strainer. I'm guessing when that tank was fitted they forgot to refit it or it's fouls on something within the tank (swirl pot??) and they had to leave it off.

You won't need glue with the correct strainer and fuel pump.

Yeah, mate.
It doesn't make sense to me not having a strainer in my tank.
It's highly likely, LRA forgot to fit it. Or it may be hiding inside the tank.
I need to do a better look see inside(which means I haven't done it yet )
Judging from there electrical work over twenty years ago, that wouldn't surprise me.
I'm sure LRA is a good business, considering they are still in business, but over twenty years ago, that would've been a different story.
The strainer is for ebay redundancy external pump.
I don't think I would find an exact match via ebay when I'm going cheap on that, hence the reason I'm pretty interested in petrol resistant goo.

[Throbbinhood]

I pulled over, popped the bonnet and activated the butterfly. The carby would then perform properly while still cold.

Sorry to hijack. Mudnut, which butterfly are you playing with when you do this, and is it accessible without pulling the air cleaner off? Hasn't happen to me in a over a year - but every now and then on a cold night/snow run I would have this same issue. For me, turning the car off for a few minutes was enough to warm the carb up (the residual heat or something) and get things working again. But your version would be a better solution.

[mudnut]

For fuel efficiency the carby has two stages. One that operates via the position of your foot, and one that is vacuum operated.

The second stage butterfly remains in the closed position and tends to wear a groove in the bore.

I have posted in the helpful hints sticky thread about how I removed the butterfly.

I used a fine wet'n'dry paper to sand the butterfly and carby bore so that it worked properly.

Just take the filter housing off and you will see the linkage you will need to manipulate to free the butterfly. It is easy once you learn where to reach to with the filter housing in place.

Also having the pre-heat system working in the colder months lets the carby heat up loads quicker as well.

[dom14]

filter/valve thing on the charcoal canister line is more of a valve than filter.

[Makka]

For fuel efficiency the carby has two stages. One that operates via the position of your foot, and one that is vacuum operated.

The second stage butterfly remains in the closed position and tends to wear a groove in the bore.

I have posted in the helpful hints sticky thread about how I removed the butterfly.

I used a fine wet'n'dry paper to sand the butterfly and carby bore so that it worked properly.

Just take the filter housing off and you will see the linkage you will need to manipulate to free the butterfly. It is easy once you learn where to reach to with the filter housing in place.

Also having the pre-heat system working in the colder months lets the carby heat up loads quicker as well.

i know all about carb iceing my su used to do it on my mini all the time in winter nothing worse than wot lifting and depress the clutch and the revs head for red line and beyond

[dom14]

Fuel pump internal/external connections.

I've noticed during my dramas withe intank fuel pump that if I try to run it without submerging the pump pickup in petrol it sucks in air and subsequent submerging in petrol won't work(it won't pump petrol) even though I can hear the pump running. The way to overcome that was to stop the pump running and start again(disconnect the power to the pump and reconnect it). This was while having the pump on a bench with a small petrol container to produce the conditions inside the tank.
I'm not certain whether this is a pump fault or not, but I suspect it is, 'cos when the tank run out of petrol the pump does get filled with air through the breather(s) so the same condition can produce the same result. Turning the ignition off and turning on again can mimic the scenario of power disconnect/connect. My overall guess was that the pump was faulty so I wired up a cheaper external pump while still having the internal pump & it's plumbing(sealed but left alone in case I wanna swap over the external pump plumbing lines to the internal pump). I opted to not to purchase a new internal pump 'cos I wasn't sure(still not sure) whether the pump is faulty or not(internal pump is around $150 and I didn't wanna spend that much money without confirming it). External pump setup was super cheap and effective, but I will have to get back to the internal pump issue sometime in the future.

I think the internal pump is indeed faulty in my case 'cos when the vehicle in on LPG(I run it on LPG all the time) the intank petrol pump still runs all the time, and there is no petrol in the petrol tank most of the time. I reckon it's been pumping air(pumping dry) for too long and that might have partially stuffed it up. The wiring by the LPG guy was bad to make it run all the time I reckon.
I have corrected that issue by rewiring so the petrol pump doesn't run anymore while the engine's running on LPG.