TB48 ETC fault code.

[clambeard]

So after a grand total of 8 days of Nissan ownership, it broke down on me....

My regular cheapy ($100) scantool was as useless as the proverbial on a bull. After a little research, I found an article posted online be 4x4 Australia magazine ( http://www.4x4australia.com.au/gear/...03/scan-tools/ ) outlining why a scantool should be carried by every 4x4er out bush which also stated that a lot of pre-2007 nissans (and TD05 land rovers, yuck...) wont talk to these generic tools.

Before purchasing this vehicle, I did a fair bit of research on common issues and what to look for. Two things came up, O2 sensor faults (easy and cheap fix) and electronic throttle-body faults ($1k replacement).
I did the old "disconnect the battery for a few hours" trick, and it seemed to clear. Started to drive home and ping, engine light and limp mode.

Luckily, a very good friend of mine has his own automotive shop and lent me his launch diagnostic tool.
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Initially it cleared the codes, which ended up being P1122 ETC FUNCTION/CIRC, P1123 ETC MOT RLY/CIRC and P0134 HO2S1 (oxygen sensor code I suspect was thrown due to limp mode over fueling). A quick test drive later, and they had returned, but this time, it wouldn't let me erase them.

I did some googling and found a service bulletin ( http://www.autocodes.com/p1122_nissan.html ) regarding most fly-by-wire Nissans that instructs techs to preform the "Idle Air Volume Learning Procedure".
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Time to see how good this Launch tool is, and as it turn out, very good. I was somewhat surprised to find that it did a lot of what the consult 2 does, including coding keys. I carried out the learning procedure which takes about 5 minutes and went for a quick test drive.

No light, no codes.

Yet.

The launch tool allows you to see, in real time, graphs and numerical displays of different sensors inputs and outputs. I went through and checked the TPS and Accel pedal outputs and all seem to be linear with no glitches or dead spots through their range. Hopefully this is a good indicator that there is no hard fault with the system and it simply needed re-calibrating.
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Only time will tell.

I suggest, if anyone else experiences similar issues, to try this out before forking out for a $1000 part and more than likely a few hours of costly dealership labor.