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Thread: Sub Tank not working

  1. #11
    I am he, fear me the evil twin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mickw1912 View Post
    The "sub" dash is illuminated, and the back lighting of the switch, when dash lights up. There's no transfer light at all.
    The 'transfer' light in the switch won't illuminate while the 'sub tank' fail light in the dash is on.
    You need to reset the sub tank computer by either, disconnecting the battery, pulling the fuses or disconnecting the computer.
    Next time you turn the ign on the 'sub tank' light will go out and the computer will then do a self check (takes a minute or so).
    If there is no fault teh light will stay off and all will work as advertised.
    If there is still a fault the 'sub tank' light will come back on.

    If the light comes back on you can either work thru the tests in the manual or get the computer to show the fault codes, again, by following the manual.
    It can be, pump, switch computer, sub tank sender, main tank sender or wiring
    Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.

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    mickw1912 (17th May 2016)

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  4. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by the evil twin View Post
    The 'transfer' light in the switch won't illuminate while the 'sub tank' fail light in the dash is on.
    You need to reset the sub tank computer by either, disconnecting the battery, pulling the fuses or disconnecting the computer.
    Next time you turn the ign on the 'sub tank' light will go out and the computer will then do a self check (takes a minute or so).
    If there is no fault teh light will stay off and all will work as advertised.
    If there is still a fault the 'sub tank' light will come back on.

    If the light comes back on you can either work thru the tests in the manual or get the computer to show the fault codes, again, by following the manual.
    It can be, pump, switch computer, sub tank sender, main tank sender or wiring
    I did disconnect the positive terminal on the battery for 30+ mins, but no change. I'll start testing this weekend and post any results.

  5. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by mickw1912 View Post
    I did disconnect the positive terminal on the battery for 30+ mins, but no change. I'll start testing this weekend and post any results.
    So the sub tank warning light in the dash was on after disconnecting the battery? even before pushing the sub tank transfer switch?

  6. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yendor View Post
    So the sub tank warning light in the dash was on after disconnecting the battery? even before pushing the sub tank transfer switch?
    Thats correct mate.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mickw1912 View Post
    Thats correct mate.
    Try running a new earth lead between the negative battery terminal and the chassis ( or between the body and chassis) it doesn't matter which one as long as one end is connected to the chassis.

    Then try resetting the computer again, this time by unplugging it for half an hour. It's located under the radio on the LHS.

  8. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yendor View Post
    Try running a new earth lead between the negative battery terminal and the chassis ( or between the body and chassis) it doesn't matter which one as long as one end is connected to the chassis.

    Then try resetting the computer again, this time by unplugging it for half an hour. It's located under the radio on the LHS.
    So Yendor, disconnecting the battery should affectedly do that to the system, shouldnt it?

    Well, I went back out in the dark just now to disconnect the battery again. What i found was the red arc SBI12 dual battery solenoid was still glowing on top, that meant the second battery was still connected and powering the the mains cables.

    This time I took both off, and has reset itself. The dash 'sub tank' has gone out.

    Rooky Error right there.....

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    Quote Originally Posted by mickw1912 View Post
    So Yendor, disconnecting the battery should affectedly do that to the system, shouldnt it?

    Well, I went back out in the dark just now to disconnect the battery again. What i found was the red arc SBI12 dual battery solenoid was still glowing on top, that meant the second battery was still connected and powering the the mains cables.

    This time I took both off, and has reset itself. The dash 'sub tank' has gone out.

    Rooky Error right there.....
    Some aftermarket electronic units can hold a charge when disconnected from the main battery. Disconnecting the sub tank ECU eliminates all other electronics in the vehicle from maintaing the memory in the sub tank ECU.

    Disconnecting the battery has not fixed your problem. It's like when you reboot a computer after it crashes. You have just reset the sub tank ECU. If the problem is still present the dash light will come on again.

    As I have said, start by adding the extra earth to the chassis. This is a common problem with GU's and hopefully it will fix your problem.

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    mickw1912 (20th May 2016)

  11. #18
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    When I get a fail light I pull the fuse or the computer plug rather than dick around with Battery terminals.
    I get one about once a year or so because I am running a different transfer pump than factory and every now and then the 'poota figures it out and trips a fail.

    Do what Rodney said and put in a chassis to body earth even if the light does not come back on again.
    Dodgy earths cause all sorts of issues than just the sub tank faults in a Trol
    Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.

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    mickw1912 (20th May 2016)

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    Guys, I took out both batteries, so no power what so ever. It reset the system and I now have a sub tank once again.
    Thanks for all help once again.

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    the evil twin (20th May 2016)

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