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If the axles are turning with the hub off, you are getting drive to that point. I'd say hubs for sure. Have a mate with a GU you could swap them over and check?
I would also guess the hubs, especially if they were the last thing you touched.....
You should be able to jack up the front in 2wd, spin the front tailshaft to feel the resistance of the shaft with hubs unlocked under free wheel, then lock one hub at a time as you have a diff lock, and spin the front tailshaft again, and watch the front wheels turn or not turn and feel the resistance increase.
If it is both hubs as suspected, then you will get nothing .... which isn't the end of it as it then could then be hubs, diff or transfer case. If it does spin the wheels, then I guess it will point back to the transfer case.
Alternatively, you could place the vehicle on a hoist, and then do something similar with the transfer locked and unlocked to see the front tailshaft turning or not turning.
I haven't pull the hubs apart yet. I might do that and see if I can see something. How do they come apart?
With the auto plate removed the entire centre gear section pretty much falls out. Most times they are pretty difficult to remove though but they do come out. When its out you will see a metal cage that holds the gear and spring together. On the bottom section of this cage is two tabs. In the housing you will see two cut outs, these two tabs are supposed to be lined up with these cut outs and locked in. From memory, in the housing you will see the wall of the housing is splined too. But there is a gap in the spline opposite to each other, I think the cut outs in the bottom section need to be lined up with the gap in the spline. This can be done by turning the auto > lock section on the housing.
An easy way to test the hub is when its off the internal gear that sits on the axle shaft should spin free when in the auto position. Then when you lock it it should not move.
This is the only pic I have of the hub apart. You can see the centre gear with the cage on it and spring in between the two. This entire part does come out like I said, but I have found its a very snug fit so it needs to come out pretty much dead straight.
The other bits you see are the left overs from the auto to manual conversion.
I had a hard time removing the centre gear section until someone suggested to turn the hub upside down and bang it on the bench a couple of times and then it just fell out.
I found that one of the tabs on each cage was bent and twisted and had also chewed out the section in the housing that the tabs are suppose to slide behind when manually locking the hub.
I straightened the tabs and reassembled the hubs. After refitting them to the vehicle I found that they only locked and unlocked a couple of times before failing again.
So I installed a set of AVM aftermarket manual locking hubs.
I wonder if this problem occurred because the auto locking plate was removed. It appears the auto locking plate holds the inner gear section down in the hub and without it the inner gear section can slide up allowing the tabs to foul when trying to lock the hubs. Then again my hubs were playing up before that's why I did the mod. So maybe they were already stuffed??
I would say already stuffed. My hubs have had the plate out for two years with no issue.
With the AVM hubs i would remove the outer tapered screws and apply some never seize to the tapered section. As dirt gets behind the taper and locks the screw in and you will have a bugger of a time to gt them out.
Possibly, But I would recommend anyone doing this mod to remove the inner gear section and use some bearing loctite. Because that the only thing thats holding the inner gear in place.
Yeah, I've read all the negatives about using the AVM hubs and have done this.
If I spin the front tail shaft by hand both front axles rotate. This was done one wheel at a time.
I didn't understand the above test.
Did you mean the locked hubs appear to be working when you turn the front drive shaft(wheels turn when you turn the front driveshaft)?
I didn't understand the above test.
Did you mean the locked hubs appear to be working when you turn the front drive shaft(wheels turn when you turn the front driveshaft)?
To test if something is broken in the diff, one wheel is jacked and if it spins with force when small drive shaft is spun it is all connected and working.. (hubs locked of course)
With one wheel fixed (say to the ground) and one wheel up the drive has no choice but to go to the lifted wheel..