Can i get a mechanical injector pump for 4.2gq

[landy96]

Yes but i should have kept all the info in one thread its getting to much for me to keep track of getting confused and flustered

[Bigcol]

All 4.2 diesel gq are mechanical. So are all gu td42s.

A zd30 pump is even mechanical....

series III went to electronic Injector Pump - when they added the turbo to them

[the evil twin]

So if theres no smoke theres no extra fuel
So if its not fuel what else might cause it to jump up so quickly .im talking 100 200metres up the range .its not gradual Like a mechanical thing its more instant like a switch going on.Weather i keep it or sell it i have to fix it .

That sounds more like a sender unit or possibly the gauge.

There is no way the 'actual' coolant temp is changing 'like a switch'.
There is too much mass involved IE it is a big heat soak and it all has to be heated.

If it is overfuelling heaps then there will be a lot of black smoke out the pipe

[nissannewby]

series III went to electronic Injector Pump - when they added the turbo to them

Its not really fully electronic. There is a very tiny portion of the pump which is altered with electronics. The internal timing is altered using a solenoid and a pulse signal which moves the timing piston. Even then the solenoid is only opening a passage allowing the internal pressure to do the work. On a full mechanical this is done with pressure.

The rest of the pump is still mechanical, the injectors are also still mechanical. The pump will still work as required without the solenoid plugged in.

Even a common rail still has a mechanical pump. This is regulated at the fuel rail and sometimes also with a suction control valve.

The regulation is electronically controlled and so is the injection event. Just like an efi petrol but at much higher pressure.

[landy96]

Its not the gauge cause thats what happened when it blew up
Just before the top of the range after letting it cool at the last pullover spot the temp jumped really fast to 3/4 and i stopped in a cloud of smoke and it ran like crap and sounded terible being in a dangerous spot i crept to the top and stopped giving it half an hour to cool i checked the oil and water it took heaps of both water was not in the oil though assuming motor stuffed we crept home rad cap loose ..
Next day had to move it under a tree for repairs ..
Loud banging noise trying to start after starting went to move and a louder bang coming to a sudden stop .shes stuffed..
Problem is the temp jumped realy fast but i had stopped quickly and it only went to 3/4 when it blew so whatever caused this is still here in the new motor ..
So has it got to be in the parts that has gone back on this new motor ????

[the evil twin]

Well beats me then... has the Cooling system been burped?

Only thing that I can even think of that would do anything like those symptoms IE an extremely rapid rise in temp is steam

[landy96]

So whats burped .bled i assume . I keep checking and topping up waterthe next couple days if it needs it after mucking with water.

Steam ah ..warming and cooling 3 or 4 times up the hill ????after that is when the temp jumps

[the evil twin]

'Burped' is parking the beast nose high (even on ramps will do) and run the engine with the cap off the rad.

RE the second part of your post... are you losing coolant?

[landy96]

No not loosing any coolant ... which wày would you go with the needle and dawes to make egt lower .. i now it wuoldnt be much but it might help

[the evil twin]

No not loosing any coolant ... which wày would you go with the needle and dawes to make egt lower .. i now it wuoldnt be much but it might help

I wouldn't fit a Needle and Dawes to a Prado but then I had a CRD... the guys that have them on Di's will know and Mudski is a guru if you want to PM someone