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28th March 2016, 02:34 AM
#11
Hi jff45.
Yes, when we removed the banjo bolt we expected the little mesh filter you referred to. When we couldn't immediately see or feel it, we cautiously went "fishing", eventually convinced there wasn't one there when we put a screwdriver down to the bottom of the well.
Yossie
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28th March 2016 02:34 AM
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28th March 2016, 02:58 AM
#12
Hi MudRunner,
There's certainly a difference on occasion in how long she turns over before kicking to life. Half-a-second versus about 3 seconds. But more like if she's been sitting for 20 - 30 minutes.
I checked the air filter today and its in good nick. Not one you'd look at and say it needed replacing.
I fitted a Ryco fuel filter (as recommended by the lads at Repco) last week as a first go at solving this problem. I was reading a post on another forum today, saying that the fuel delivery capacity of the Ryco filter is significantly less than the Nissan-branded filter because of the different micron ratings. Do you have any knowledge or view on this?
Yossie
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28th March 2016, 03:05 AM
#13
Hi Rossco.
I am suspicious of the priming mechanism. Is it serviceable, or would I just replace it?
Yossie
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28th March 2016, 03:11 AM
#14
Jeeez! Scared me on two fronts! Possible split fuel line and $2000 pump rebuild. I want my problem to be solved by an easily-replaceable $2 o-ring!
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28th March 2016, 08:29 AM
#15
Legendary
Originally Posted by
yossie
Hi Rossco.
I am suspicious of the priming mechanism. Is it serviceable, or would I just replace it?
Yossie
Good question! I've never pulled one apart or know how serviceable they are. . . Hopefully others will know. .
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The Following User Says Thank You to Rossco For This Useful Post:
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28th March 2016, 09:47 AM
#16
Patrol Guru
Originally Posted by
yossie
Hi Rossco.
I am suspicious of the priming mechanism. Is it serviceable, or would I just replace it?
Yossie
Hi yossie
Not a serviceable item but appears to be working ok if you can pump it up and it goes hard should be fine rare to see one on a trol fubar try pressurising the fuel line and check for leaks like mudrunner did but use compressed air or a small pump and block off one end might show up a leak as there is normally no pressure in there
98 GU ST wagon 6.5TD chev 5 speed manual dual batteries storage drawers big red air compressor 9L tank millweld front and rear bars millweld 4" snorkel 4" air box 3" tough dog suspension lift drop box and hybrid radius arms 12000Lb winch ARB front air locker Alpine MP3 player amp and a good set of speakers GME 2 way The list goes on
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28th March 2016, 10:01 AM
#17
Travelling Podologist
As you are able to access both ends of the fuel line - suggest you just replace it. I reckon there is a 99% chance it'll solve your problem & won't cost much.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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28th March 2016, 10:28 AM
#18
Moderator
Originally Posted by
Cuppa
As you are able to access both ends of the fuel line - suggest you just replace it. I reckon there is a 99% chance it'll solve your problem & won't cost much.
That is actually quite a task on a wagon. Most of the lines are steel. I woul take the end off the tank and the other end off the primer, block one end with a plug bolt and stick an air gun in the other end and pressurize the line then trace along with a hose in your ear along the fuel line looking for an air leak. If there is one it sounds like a small one. Mine used to take up to 15 seconds or more to start when it was at its worst, sometimes it would not start without popping the bonnet and priming again
Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!!
....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
Check out my Toy -->
MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up
Originally Posted by
Rogue Dung Beetle
Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
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28th March 2016, 04:59 PM
#19
Travelling Podologist
Originally Posted by
MudRunnerTD
That is actually quite a task on a wagon. Most of the lines are steel. I woul take the end off the tank and the other end off the primer, block one end with a plug bolt and stick an air gun in the other end and pressurize the line then trace along with a hose in your ear along the fuel line looking for an air leak. If there is one it sounds like a small one. Mine used to take up to 15 seconds or more to start when it was at its worst, sometimes it would not start without popping the bonnet and priming again
Ah, right. I was just thinking rubber hose.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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12th April 2016, 09:27 AM
#20
An update on the fuel problem:
I consulted a fuel injection expert who took it for a drive and agreed that the problem was probably fuel constriction, possibly a blockage; and/or gunge caught in the leaf valve part of the primer pump letting fuel bleed back (like Rossco suggested, above). He thought I should try compressed air blast back down the fuel line, and clean the filter head (as much as you can!). Both of which I did. And it certainly improved the situation. The occurrences of hesitation and "flat" acceleration decreased - but still did happen. And I still had the hiss of air from the filter head after priming (not that my old ears could ever hear it, but the young blokes told me it was there).
So, still suspicious of the primer, yesterday I bought a $5 plastic in-line fuel filter and bypassed the primer/filter head altogether. SUCCESS!!! It's a totally different vehicle. Full-bodied, gutsy acceleration, no hesitation, no jerky flat spots. So having confirmed the cause, I'm now looking for a suitable replacement filter head - and I'm going non-Nissan and forget about the primer altogether.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to yossie For This Useful Post:
Bigcol (12th April 2016), Cuppa (12th April 2016)